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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Grapevine, TX
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Engine mount cross bar replacement?
I am in the process of replacing the engine and transmission mounts on my 84 Carrera 3.2. The transmission mounts where no problem at all, but I am having issues with getting the Engine mounts out of the cross bar. I'm fairly confident I will have to destroy the original engine mount cross bar. I'll probably end up cutting off the original ends of the cross bar to get the old motor mounts out, which is ok since I have a Rennline stainless cross bar to go back in. My question though, is can get the new cross bar into place without dropping the engine?
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Engine mounts and cross bar removal........
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Did you jack up the engine up when you were loosening the engine crossbar bolts? Were you able to loosen the two big bolts? Or they were stuck? Tony |
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Yes, i had a juck under the engine to take the weight off the engine mounts. Have not been able to get the 2 large bolts to turn. The cross bar started to bend so I quit. Also tried hitting them with an impact which was unsuccessful. I don't mind going in with a high speed and cutting off the ends of the original cross bar to get it out, but need to know if I'll be able to get the new one back it at full length. I'm supposed to drive the car to PCA-Palooza on Wednesday, so if I can't confirm I can get the new one in, I don't want to destroy the old one, so I may have to wait till after the trip to do the engine mount.
Last edited by 76FJ55; 11-05-2017 at 06:39 PM.. |
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For the meantime.........
Tony,
Soak the two big bolts with penetrating oil for the meantime. Keep lubricating them until you are ready to battle the stubborn bolts later after your trip. You might get lucky next time or worst scenario, you would be cutting or grinding bolts. Wish you luck. Tony D. |
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It has been a while since I did this project. But I seem to recall I used pieces of 2x4 between the body and the engine crossbar to keep it from bending. Liberal amounts of PB Blaster were used too. Possibly some heat as well. Good luck.
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??? I have not understood yet where the problem is.
place jack under enginge, some wood and secure engine. loosen center bolts of engine mounts. retreive bolts. now loosen both screws of mount. retreive mount. replace backward logic. job is done in 10 minutes.
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Quote:
I have on hand new motor mounts and a new cross bar, which I would like to install. Is there enough clearance to install the cross bar without dropping the engine? The reason I want to install the new cross bar is that the original has started to bend from trying to remove the large bolt that goes through the motor mount and is threaded into the cross bar. I have tried unsuccessfully (PB blaster, impact wrench, breaker bar, blocking to try to support the crossbar...) to get these 2 large bolts to loosen, and anticipate having to cut the ends off the cross bar to remove the original engine mounts. I'm fine with cutting the ends off the original bar, as I have an upgraded bar to go in, but need to know if there s sufficient clearance to get it into place without an engine or partial engine drop. I'll run old mounts ans a slightly bent bar for this weekend if I need to, but if I can confirm that I can slip the new bar into place with the motor in, I would prefer to do that before our road trip. thanks, Simon |
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I think you could do it without a drop. I just removed the cross bar off an engine out of the car, but I've also replaced the engine mounts while my other engine was in the car, but not the cross bar. Obviously you would have to remove the muffler, and the rear engine tin and support the engine.
I'm sure you've seen the self locking NUT hidden under each cross bar, and that you are not spinning the bolt in vain without holding the nut. I suppose that bolt could get bound up if the cross bar is getting bent.
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Quote:
unfortunately I cannot tell why you encounter such a hard time retreiving the bolts from the mounts. I have no clue.
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit |
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Critical situation.......
Simon,
Do not cut the end of the engine bracket with the bolt stuck in place. If you do it, it will be more difficult and tedious to remove the engine bracket piece and engine mount. There is no sufficient room to cut the end of the engine bracket small enough to be able to get through the hole of the engine mount. You are better off grinding the bolt’s head and remove the engine mount. Then remove the engine bracket with engine safely supported. Take a good look at your engine bay and visualize how to cut the end of the bracket. There is very limited space to get the grinder or cutting tool. The hole diameter for the engine mount is about 2.25” (dia.). If I were in your shoes and desperate to replace the engine bracket, cut/grind the bolt’s head. Tony |
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Quote:
edit: this may help visualizing the to-do ![]()
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit Last edited by Flojo; 11-06-2017 at 05:52 AM.. |
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Thanks for the responses and insight guys. So it sounds like I'll either need to lower the engine a bit or pull the exhaust to get the bar out through the bottom of the car. Due to time constraints I think I'll wait till after this road trip and tackle it once I get back.
Thanks again, Simon |
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that won't help as there is the engine tin between.
and you cannot pull the tin when engine is in (at least not without ripping and tearing it and swearing out lout and getting badly frustrated)
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit |
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Thanks for the clarification. I'll plan on removing it out the top, and methodically checking everything for interference as I lower the engine to give it the room necessary to slip the old one out and the new one in.
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good luck!
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit |
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Engine clearance........
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It looks like you have never removed the two (2) engine mounts bolts before. That’s OK. With engine properly supported from below, removal of the two (2) bolts would cause the rear end (chassis) to pop up because of the rear gas shocks. Then you will have the room or space. And you will have a problem when you cut/grind the bolts with the rear gas shocks installed. To eliminate the rear end from popping up, remove the rear shocks bolts at the trailing arms. Then, you won’t have pressure applied by the rear shocks. Done these troubleshooting many times before. Do it slow and safely. Tony |
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it comes to my mind... why not try loosening the 2 center bolts with an airgun?
they MUST come loose! (secure engine against dropping at all times!)
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit |
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Post #3...........
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Flojo, The OP mentioned in post #3 that he used an impack wrench but did not work. My suggestion was to soak them with penetrating oil and try again with an impact wrench. Maybe the impact wrench was not strong enough to get the stubborn bolts/nuts to loosen. Tony |
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm headed up to PCA-Palooza in eureka Springs, AT in the morning, so will have to but the motor mounts off till I get back. I'll update everyone on the final removal solution once I get them out.
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