Oil T-Stat & Line Replacement

[North Coast Cab]

Both rear lines, engine & tank to t-stat, appear to have slight leaks at the fittings. Assuming they need replaced $69ea. One hard line, t-stat to front cooler, is smooshed a little. Temperature runs ok but seems a little high based on BBS research. Wondering if t-stat needs work. Anyway, if I need to replace both rear lines, rebuild (or replace if threads come off) t-stat and fix or replace hard line what are my options other than the factory lines & stat fro about $750? Has anyone used the Mocal aftermarket t-stat sold by Wayne?

Will it fir the factory lines from engine/tank & cooler hard lines? Or am I better off going totally aftermarket for all lines and t-stat?

Thanks, JG

[North Coast Cab]

Oops. Here's the picture

[marcesq]

Originally posted by North Coast Cab
Has anyone used the Mocal aftermarket t-stat sold by Wayne?

Will it fir the factory lines from engine/tank & cooler hard lines? Or am I better off going totally aftermarket for all lines and t-stat?

Thanks, JG

The mocal unit works just fine. The threads on the Mocal are AN (probably -12) which are completly different than the OE thermostat threads. That unless Wayne is getting a Mocal stat with Porsche threads.

Pelican is selling Chuck Moreland's elephant oil lines which seem to be a good alternative to the OE one and cost less too.

[Chuck Moreland]

Given that you already have a factory setup, I wouldn't recommend a mocal. Mocal is -12 or -16 fittings (both are available) and won't fit your existing tubes. You'd need expensive adapters and custom fabricated flex hoses.

When it's all done you'll have a solution with the mocal that commands less at resale than the factory setup you have now.

Plus the mocal doesn't have the security of a pressure bypass like the factory tstat.

Also, you didn't say anything that indicates your factory thermostat has any problems. They're pretty reliable units. Just be careful removing the tube nuts on the leaking tubes so as not to damage the threads.

And yes, the commercial; Elephant Racing finned oil lines are a smart replacement for your damaged line that is a bit less expensive than factory lines. Get 'em from Pelican.

[North Coast Cab]

Ok. I'll stick with the factory set-up. I've just finished inspecting everything and come up with a list. If I replace the engine/tank to t-stat lines I might as well replace the two short lines coming out of the cooler. Another thought was to remove the hard lines and, if salvageable, clean, paint and reinstall. I guess I can test the t-stat when it's off. I guess the $64,000 question is....will the t-stat come off without damaging the threads? There must be a trick. Also, my factory original cooler has no fan and no stone guard or foam seal. Temperature are ok, but I'm always watching.

JG

[Chuck Moreland]

They may come off with barely a wimper, or they may strip. I'd recommend dosing with PB Blaster a couple days before you do the job.

On the lines to be replaced, you can split the nuts with dremel tool then pop 'em off with a chisel. But only if you need to. Just be careful not to damage the threads too much.

[VincentVega]

I stripped mine when I pulled it out. It wasnt too bad, but when the car started up it leaked like crazy. I talked to someone about this and he recommended heating the fitting and then using a air chisel to spin the nut. He advised to go very slow, gently moving between tighten and loosed. Granted, you will ruin the oil line this way, but's cheaper than the thermostat.

[rfix'n]

I cut three out of four succesfully with an air cutoff tool. I got cocky on the fourth one and went to fast, damaging the threads. None would turn off with a wrench even after dropping all of the lines and t-stat out of the car.

Good luck and go slow.

[kstylianos]

I replaced engine to t-stat lines and the factory hard lines with the elephant units in the fall. Using Chuck's suggestion to soak all connections with PB blaster is a must...do this once a night for a couple nights. All lines came off like butter. I only had one fitting on the t-stat that became damaged, but was easily fixed with a thread repair tool (file type repair tool), and no leaks. I posted a reply a little while ago regarding cleaning damaged threads. external t-stat

Tip: use a 2x4 between the engine and hard line when removing the fitting. It prevents the hard line from bending too much and hitting the engine. When installing use the 2x4 (cut to length) between the line and the floor.

I highly reccommend the oil line wrenches from Pelican. They make the job soo much easier and the handle is tapered a bit so fitting an extension/breaker is easy if more torque is needed.

-Charlie

[cary]

PB BLASTER 3 or 4 days in a row before you attempt to turn them. But first clean every thing up. Lots of road debris.
You need a large pair of channel locks to hold the T-stat while you unscrew the engine side lines. It just kind of floats in there between the front and back lines. You don’t want to bend the lines going up front.

The threads on the T-stat are VERY fine. So go slowly.
Don't forget to use a pipe on the wrench before you give up. If still can't budge them. Split the nut open with a Dremel or a cut of wheel.

Patience and SLOWLY ........... Easy Deal……………

[North Coast Cab]

Another quick question.
Since I'm replacing both rear lines and front short lines to the cooler I was thinking about removing the entire assembly together. In other words, rear line to t-stat to hard line to flex line. Can it be done? This way I could carefully remove the t-stat and clean and repaint the hard lines at the same time.

JG

[cary]

Yes, it can be done. This allows you to put the T-stat in a padded vice. But you need to rig up something to hold the long lines up and out of harms way.

Good Luck

[kepperly]

I used a mocal -16 in -16 out with no problem. My mocal cooler is now located in the rear brake cooling duct on my slant nose
3.2 carrera cabriolet. The mocal oil cooler was smaller but more efficent than the stock porsche carrera cooler.Even in 105f heat with a/c on the temp is always under 215f.

Keith

[North Coast Cab]

About to dive in. My local P-mechanic says if he's replacing the lines completely he'll cut-off the existing lines and spin nut off with an impact wrench. What do you think? I'm thinking about taking the multifaceted approach. Load with PB Blaster, cut off lines to get out of the way, crack nut with Dremel and try to spin off.

JG

[ChrisBennet]

I take the whole system out and work on it out of the car usually. that way I have access to the thermostat fitting that is close to the body and I don't have to undo any other fittings on the thermostat. The fittings on the front oil cooler are steel on steel so they don't aren't usually welded together like the ones on the thermostat. If you can get the fitting off the oil tank do that, otherwise, you can remove the whole tank. If you remove the whole thing, get help. The long oil lines are hard to control by yourself.
I just dremel the nuts on the thermostat and chisel the nuts off. If you cut the threads, don't sweat it. The fitting seals on the end, not the threads.
-Chris

[North Coast Cab]

Do you know the size of the two nuts on the t-stat? I've gotten conflicting information 32, 34, 36mm.

JG

[cary]

I don't know where he'd use an impact wrench ? Maybe I missed something. ??

One thing to remember, the T-stat is just hanging there, between front and back lines. I use BIG ASS slip joint pliers to hold it in place. As to not twist the lines.

Go slow. Give it a little twist tighter to try and break the corrostion. Then slowly back them off. If the PB Blaster did it's magic, it will go easy.

If it goes my usual way. Get out the Dremel. Put on the cutting wheel. Carefully split the nut.
Easy deal. Keep an eye on the filings. You don't want them back in your oil.

Good Luck

[North Coast Cab]

He'd cut the line, from engine/tack to t-stat, off flush at the nut by the hard line. Then put a socket over the nut attached to the t-stat.

JG

[Chuck Moreland]

Before taking more extreme measures, I'd just soak in PB blaster and try a wrench. Oftentimes they just come right off.

If you don't need to dremel, cut, impact wrench, stand-on-your head why bother?

[North Coast Cab]

She's warming up for the oil drain right now.

JG