Ignition switch removal

hughc · hughc's Garage

I am attempting to remove the ignition switch (83 sc) and I've reached the point of removing the switch from the back of the dash. It will not come out as it's being held by the ignition lock assembly and the Pelican instructions tell you to remove the nut that is holding the lock in place.
I've removed the only visible nut, which is very close to steering assembly but that doesn't do anything to free up the lock.
Any suggestions?
Thx
hughc

proporsche · proporsche's Garage

Hi..the nut is actually there to hold the allen head bolt ,which holds the ignition switch in place.
So you have to insert i think 4mm allen and loose the bolt.Then unlock the switch and turn the wheel ,then remove the key,do not turn the wheel again and slide the ignition switch out
I assume you have the front 2 bolts as well and the guide plate?

Ivan

proporsche · proporsche's Garage

..

john walker's workshop · 03:32 PM

Just don'y take that allen set screw all the way out, because it's real hard to get started again due to no room for your fingers.

hughc · hughc's Garage

Thank you John and proporsche. You're right, that allen screw does look to be a b..ch to get back in and I stopped just short of doing just that.
Actually I decided to not remove the switch. My original thought was to remove the switch, have it in my hand and test it to see if it might be the cause of my engine quitting for no obvious reason. But after seeing the amount of wiring coming from the switch I decided against it.
I'll look at the dwgs again to see if there is another way to do what I want to do.
It's very puzzling and taking away from my driving time.

Thx

Coastr · 10-13-2017, 09:52 PM

The wiring on the back pops off easily. The two screws holding the switch mechanism to the lock allow you to pull the switch off easily.

Dpmulvan · 10-14-2017, 04:32 AM

It's not that difficult 20 minute job.

john walker's workshop · 10-14-2017, 04:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coastr

The wiring on the back pops off easily. The two screws holding the switch mechanism to the lock allow you to pull the switch off easily.

You can't get a screwdriver in line with the top screw because there's no room, so you have to fiddle with it for 20 minutes.

groovydude · 10-14-2017, 06:07 AM

All the electrical connections are in the back assembly, so you're right not to try and remove the whole thing. And yeah, the top screw is a tight fit, you won't be able to get a screw driver in there. Use a driver bit that's about 1-1/2" - 2" with a small ratchet tool to get to the screw. They sell the tool at most hardware stores. It will be out in a minute.

proporsche · proporsche's Garage

Hugh..In case you decide to remove the ignition Lock afterall all you really have to do is inplught ignition back plug like this one on left.It goes back only one way so you cannot fit it wrong.

and this little connector..

other then those 2 front screws and the one back with the nut on it...after it very easy to slide it out

Ivan

rbogh901 · 10-14-2017, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

You can't get a screwdriver in line with the top screw because there's no room, so you have to fiddle with it for 20 minutes.

That's what happened to me. I had to do it laying on my back with my head near the pedal cluster. Is there a better way?

rbogh901 · 10-26-2017, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coastr

The wiring on the back pops off easily. The two screws holding the switch mechanism to the lock allow you to pull the switch off easily.

What is your technique? Laying in the driver's footwell vs. sitting up, by feel, with a mirror or something else?

don gilbert · don gilbert's Garage

I took a little screw driver and cut it down until I could get to the two little screws.

rbogh901 · 10-26-2017, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by don gilbert

I took a little screw driver and cut it down until I could get to the two little screws.

Thanks. Yes it looks better than removing the entire lock mechanism. Did you just lay on your back to get at it?

boyt911sc · boyt911sc's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbogh901

What is your technique? Laying in the driver's footwell vs. sitting up, by feel, with a mirror or something else?

All the above. Remove the driver seat to make room. Make a special short screw driver. Don't get discouraged or frustrated because it won't help you. I have multiple experience dismantling a 911 from bumper to bumper including engine and transmission rebuilds and I find the removal of the two tiny screws holding the ignition switch tumbler very tedious and frustrating. You have to be an acrobat, contortionist, a magician or an artist to get this job done and enjoy it. This is probably the last thing I want as a project.

Tony

john walker's workshop · 10-26-2017, 05:01 PM

I just pull the whole damn thing out.

Mike Andrew · 10-27-2017, 05:52 AM

Be very careful of the set screw as mentioned. I lost it and had a pita retrieving it with a bent telescoping magnet. Then had to get it back in by cutting a chunk of allen key to twist and using a drop of contact cement to old the screw on the allen chunk. Much swearing involved along with lots of self flagellation for being so stupid.
This and master cylinder are probably the worst jobs I have encountered. I feel your pain; neck, back, shoulders.

'78 SC · '78 SC's Garage

Quote:

see if it might be the cause of my engine quitting for no obvious reason

hughc,
Does the engine restart ok if you turn the ignition off then restart? If so, very likely is CDI lockup, especially if happens more when hot. I had same problem earlier this year and had the CDI rebuilt. No problem since.

hughc · hughc's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by '78 SC

hughc,
Does the engine restart ok if you turn the ignition off then restart? If so, very likely is CDI lockup, especially if happens more when hot. I had same problem earlier this year and had the CDI rebuilt. No problem since.

Yes Steve, the car was behaving exactly as you described and I have sent the CDI unit off to be looked at. I'm truly hoping that is the problem because I think an intermittent electrical problem such as the one I'm having could be a pain to troubleshoot.
Thx

Coastr · 10-27-2017, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbogh901

What is your technique? Laying in the driver's footwell vs. sitting up, by feel, with a mirror or something else?

Undo the grub screw holding the lock to the steering column. Undo the screws holding the lock to the dash fascia (may have to Dremel a slot if never removed before). You can see the grub screw through the gap in the dash around the wheel, but you have to go in under the dash.

At this point the lock housing will come down away from the dash. You should then be able to get the two screws out.

I agree that removing the entire housing is faster than fiddling with tiny drivers to get just the switch off.

It's a fiddle job. I enlist a pair of small hands and young flexible back that I have around the house to help get the screws out. Wear plastic safety glasses to protect your eyes from all the dirt that will fall down on your face.