Steering Rack Removal

[Gordo2]

Removed the steering rack this afternoon (part of a larger suspension upgrade project). Removing the rack was more difficult than I anticipated:

- the splined steering shaft that fits into a coupler, located in the smuggler's box, just wouldn't come free.

I found tips here and there (searching related threads) but not many with pictures. Plenty showing how to refresh the rack, but few on removing, so here it is.

Starting point:
-"Protective Plate" or the pan that covers the fuel pump and steering rack removed.
-Tie rods removed from spindles
-Cross member removed
-Steering shaft coupler bolt removed/steering shaft bracket removed (in the smuggler's box).

I was doing the project alone, so I put blocks under the steering rack to keep it from falling to the floor once I got the shaft free:



I separated the steering shaft coupler by driving a screwdriver in the gap:



It still wouldn't come free with the coupler spread apart. I finally got the shaft out of the coupler by grabbing the coupler with a channel lock and wiggling it until the shaft dropped out:

With that, I had my full front suspension and steering removed:




Overall, not too difficult of a project thus far.

Gordo

[KTL]

There's a couple threads here on the Technical BBS about "rebuilding" the rack with fresh grease, bearings, etc. It's a worthwhile effort to get some new grease in there. Do a search for my name and also Tim Hancock

[Gordo2]

Thanks KTL,

Those are the two threads I found that started me into ripping out the steering rack - bookmarked

Linking your threads to have it all in one place for future ref/searches:

Steering Rack "Rebuild" Procedure

SC Steering Rack DIY Bearing Replace

Gordo

[bkreigsr]

I know this is an old post, but maybe I can still get an answer.
The Bentley says that the whole ventilation system in back of the dash (behind the cardboard in the trunk) must be removed. The procedure on this thread seems to shortcut all that stuff and get right to the top universal without the removal of the vents, blowers, cowl, grill, etc.
Is the Bentley going overboard (again)?

Also, does all the stuff in the smugglers box have to be removed?

(this is a follow up to TRE's post last week, regarding maintenance that I have to get to before next track season)
Clunk in steering? Here is a possibility

thanks, Bill K

[KTL]

No need to pull ouit the air handler- that job sucks. You only need to remove the pinch bolt in the u-joint @ the steering rack coupler. I believe you must remove it, not just loosen. The shafts have a relief for the bolt to "grasp" the shaft in the u-joint. However the coupler shaft may not have this relief, in order to allow for up/down fine adjustment.

[Gordo2]

I'm guess the job can be done with the A/C still installed - I had deleted my A/C long before I started this project.

No doubt, not having the evaporator in the smuggler's box made access to the steering shaft much easier.

Outside of that, I didn't have to remove any of the vent/ducting components.

Best of luck.

Gordo

[wrxnofx]

Originally Posted by Gordo2

I'm guess the job can be done with the A/C still installed - I had deleted my A/C long before I started this project.

No doubt, not having the evaporator in the smuggler's box made access to the steering shaft much easier.

Outside of that, I didn't have to remove any of the vent/ducting components.

Best of luck.

Gordo

Bumping this thread up because I can't get the lower hex bolt loose to remove the steering shaft bracket. I'm just really frustrated right now and had to quit for the night before I did something really bad.

I removed the entire suspension and didn't have a problem. Getting the tie rods off the strut? No problem. Removing the ball joints from the control arm? Easy peasy. I'm literally down to the LAST BOLT of the entire damn project and I can't get it loose!

The AC evaporator is in the way so I can't get a socket on it.

I've tried an allen wrench with a box wrench over it for leverage, and I'm damn near snapping the allen wrench it's bending so much. Yet the bolt won't budge. I'm also worried about rounding off the insides of the bolt. The top one came off with some effort, too, but I could get a socket on it.

Maybe I can purchase a 5mm insert for a drill and use that in conjunction with a small socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet?

Either that or I'm not removing the rack and just calling it good for another 29 years.

I'm pretty much at my wits end here. Suggestions anyone? I'ts a real pain to remove the evaporator I believe, and I have a fully charged system so disconnecting it is not an option.

[wrxnofx]

Here is a pic. I sprayed the hell out of it with PB Blaster. Maybe by morning it'll work some magic, but I'm not optimistic. Can't apply heat with the rubber grommet in there, either.

[Klax]

i used one of those Irwin bolt out sockets. I dremeled a flat spot on side of the bolt head and slipped the irwin socket over it.

[porschenut]

I can't tell for sure, but did you remove the lid off the top of the evaporator housing to gain more access? It looks like you might need to do that anyway, to be able to back that bolt out once you get it loose.

You could also try cutting a notch in the bolt head with a dremel cutoff wheel, and then put the flat blade of a big screwdriver in the notch and give it some whacks from a hammer to jar it loose. Lots of guys have done that to loosen seat mounting bolts, including me once or twice.

[wrxnofx]

Originally Posted by porschenut

I can't tell for sure, but did you remove the lid off the top of the evaporator housing to gain more access? It looks like you might need to do that anyway, to be able to back that bolt out once you get it loose.

Hi Dave, no I didn't remove the lid off the housing. Looking at Bentley, it seems you have to remove the expansion valve in order to remove the housing?

Edit - In searching it looks like I CAN remove the cover with everything else about the evaporator in situ. I just ordered a 1/4" drive 5mm allen socket. My 3/8" drive socket will go on, but I then can't get a ratchet on top since the evap cover is in the way. Hopefully with the smaller socket and smaller ratchet I can get both on...

[KTL]

Those low head socket screws are always stubborn for some reason. I would try putting a socket extension against the head of the bolt and rapping it a few times with a hammer to shock it. Also short blasts from a propane torch to get some heat in it will help. That rubber bushing is quite resilient against heat. I know this for certain! Put layers of aluminum foil around the areas you need to protect like the evap housing and the hose end. Doing that acts like a heat shield.

By the way there's a needle bearing inside that rubber bushing that is most likely dry & crusty, so be prepared to replace that- there's another thread that covers this.


Put a dab of antiseize on the new bolts (don't you dare reuse the old ones! ) before you reinstall. I have some low head bolts I can send you if you need some. But you really don't need low head socket screws. Standard "full" head socket screws work just fine and you should be able to get them at your local hardware store. Size is M8x1.25x15 length. If you can't get them that short, just cut the extra threads off of a long one with a Dremel cutoff wheel.

[wrxnofx]

Thanks for that info, Kevin. What is the torque on those bolts when tightening?

[porschenut]

Originally Posted by wrxnofx

My 3/8" drive socket will go on, but I then can't get a ratchet on top since the evap cover is in the way. Hopefully with the smaller socket and smaller ratchet I can get both on...

Another possibility...insert the Allen socket, and then grasp the barrel of the socket with a vice grip, channel lock pliers, or a small pipe wrench.

[KTL]

Typical M8 tightening spec is 18 ft-lb/24Nm. Just make 'em snug, especially since you'll be putting some antiseize on them.

[steely]

I know you have a clearance issue to contend with, but if you solve that, I was able to remove that bolt using a bolt extractor and a hand impact driver - 2 maybe 3 shots and bada-bing. You can see how much I messed up the bolt before I broke down - I think Kevin was the one that pointed me in that direction.

[steely]

A bit off-topic, but consider doing your tunnel fuel lines before you get the rack/suspension back in. I did mine -2 years after I did the rack/suspension, and wished I'd known sooner. Your future self will thank you for it :-)

[bugstrider]

Originally Posted by wrxnofx

Bumping this thread up because I can't get the lower hex bolt loose to remove the steering shaft bracket. I'm just really frustrated right now and had to quit for the night before I did something really bad.

I removed the entire suspension and didn't have a problem. Getting the tie rods off the strut? No problem. Removing the ball joints from the control arm? Easy peasy. I'm literally down to the LAST BOLT of the entire damn project and I can't get it loose!

The AC evaporator is in the way so I can't get a socket on it.

I've tried an allen wrench with a box wrench over it for leverage, and I'm damn near snapping the allen wrench it's bending so much. Yet the bolt won't budge. I'm also worried about rounding off the insides of the bolt. The top one came off with some effort, too, but I could get a socket on it.

Maybe I can purchase a 5mm insert for a drill and use that in conjunction with a small socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet?

Either that or I'm not removing the rack and just calling it good for another 29 years.

I'm pretty much at my wits end here. Suggestions anyone? I'ts a real pain to remove the evaporator I believe, and I have a fully charged system so disconnecting it is not an option.

I just did this last week, I too have been attempting to get rack out for a refresh for awhile. That bolt was a real "bugga" to get loose. At the time, my evaporator/fan unit was still installed and I had no intent of removing it. What I personally used to get that 5 mm hex head bracket bolt off was to use the longest 5 mm allan wrench I had which has a 5" leg, I then took a 12" piece of 1/2" metal pipe and placed it over the allan wrench.

From the passenger side for better access, applied as much pressure on the 90degree elbow to keep it from popping out as well as the correct angle pushing it into the 5mm slot while at the same time using the free hand and turning the pipe to the left. Essentially using it as a "cheater bar". Even with the substantial added leverage, it took quite a bit of pressure to break it loose.

Before doing it this way, I tried every conceivable method without success, allen socket on a 3/8" base, adjustable ratchet, etc. it was just too bloody limited by the evaporator unit. I found that the allen wrench was the only thing I could get into the 5 mm hex head bolt due to the spacial limitations. The ironic part of this whole project after I finally got the bolt off, is the fact that I removed my evaporator yesterday to replace the stupid drain hose on my fresh air box. At least it will make the removal of the rack easier........... I hope.

Good luck and keep us posted,

Cheers Trevor

[rnln]

Gordo,
I just did this couple months ago, and had the same issue, steering shaft didn't want to come out of the coupler even I used a big flat srew driver to expand the coupler. At the end, I found that it caused by one of the splines was messed up a bit.

[wrxnofx]

Okay, I was able to get that bottom hex bolt out.

I used a 5mm allen socket with a 1/4" drive. This socket is a lot shorter than a 5mm 3/8" drive allen socket. Plus, a 1/4" drive ratchet has a smaller head than a 3/8" drive ratchet.

So I put the socket on the 1/4" drive ratchet, and stuck it into the bolt along with a dab of grinding compound for some extra purchase and to hopefully keep the allen from slipping (learned from this forum). Then I slid a cheater bar over the ratchet and went for it. The amount of force it took to break this bolt free was ridiculous.