Tips on Removing Ignition Switch
 

I'm trying to replace the electric portion of the ignition switch and clean out the lock cylinder so key can be inserted with no drama. The car is an '87 coupe. However, I'm having a ***** of a time removing the breakoff bolts holding the switch to the dash. I'm using a drill and Dremel to drill a slot to insert a flat head screw driver, but it takes a long time to make progress given the hardness of the breakoff bolts. Even cobalt drill tips make slow grinding progress. Have any tips on getting these bolts off faster?

Hello - take a look at the link below; hopefully it'll be helpful to you.

Porsche 911 Ignition Switch Replacement | 911 (1965-89) - 930 Turbo (1975-89) | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

Use a short spiral easy-out after drilling a hole in them. The ones with 1/4" spiral and a hex head.

The simple way is to take a small sharp chisel and tap the bolt at 6 o'clock make a little groove and tap it to the right it will loosen then use the groove to spin the bolt out. literally takes 5 minutes.

I tried all the idea listed here and from previous threads, none worked for me so I ended up just grinding off the top of the bolt. The dome top and hardness of the bolt made it difficult to chisel and easy-out.

All you need is a small sharp chisel, put it on the outer edge of the bolt at 6:00 and tap it counterclockwise, literally takes 5 minutes to remove them.
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I have a 1973 911T with an ignition key that is so worn it almost has no teeth. I had a locksmith cut 2 extra keys off the old key and he said the existing key is so worn he could barely make duplicates. He didn't charge me. I currently have the dash disassembled for restoration so now seems the logical time to replace the steering lock and switch assembly with a good used lock/switch off a later 911.

I think I can manage to remove the old lock. The question his whether my wiring harness will plug into the later model ignition switch that comes with the 1987 steering lock. Will a lock/switch off a 1987 911 fit my 1973 switch wiring? Or should I retain my existing switch and install it on the 1987 steering lock? any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

You should probably start a new thread for new questions/problems.

Looks to me like both the lock and the switch from 1987 will fit your '73 with no problem.

Both 911-613-904-00 and 911-613-902 parts numbers are given in PET for the lock from 71/72 up; PET gives 904 as "state lock number" and "902" as "without stipulated lock-no". 911-613-902-00 is used up until 1989.

The ignition switch (the electrical portion) had the same part # 911-613-017-00 from 72 up through 84, according to my PET. From 1985 onwards, the part # is 964-613-012-00.

The original 911-613-017-00 switch has been NLA for some considerable time; the replacement is the 964 part, although they're not quite the same...

My '77 original ignition switch had no lockout in the electrical portion; once that is removed, the key turns freely anywhere you want in the lock. And using a screwdriver in the electrical portion, take it all the way from Off/Acc/Run/Start, let it go back to Run and hit Start again as many times as you like, no problem.

The 964 electrical switch does not let you do this, it has an interlock. Once you have hit Start, you have to turn it all the way back to Off before you can hit Start again; cannot simply do it from Run after the first time.

Yeh, I still miss/prefer the old behavior...

thank you for this information. much appreciated

Ok, I have removed the 2 bolts that hold the ignition switch in the dash and have removed the set screw at the steering column. The steering wheel is unlocked and turns freely. But I still cannot wiggle the ignition lock mechanism free from the hole in the dash or the steering column. Any suggestions? Thanks

Remove the square plate in the dash that ignition was bolted to.

Thank you. That did the trick.

I used Dpmulvan's method and it worked like a charm. I sharpened a chisel
with a file and worked it counter clockwise. Finished with needle nose pliers.
I marked the top of the screw with a sharpie so I could see that it was turning also.

Hi!

Resurrecting this thread as I believe my experience may be useful to others.

Here is just another alternative method to change the switch. I managed to replace it by only removing it from the back of the lock, without having to remove the break-off security bolts.

steps:

1) Remove the driver seat (this will give you much better access to work under the dashboard. Just four allen or 10 mm hex screws at the four courners of the rails.

2) Locate the switch and disconnect the surrouning connectors and push cables away to make some room

3) Remove top and bottom philips screw from the switch. Done!

The trick is to have a combination of socket extension and articulated joint, similar to what I used in the pictures. Some additional tips:

A) Use small socket drivers. I used 1/4"

B) The bit needs to be as short as possible but long enough to reach the head screw. I used a piece of metal as a spacer inside the bit holder to have it standing out as needed. (You will understand when you see the pictures)

C) When fitting the new switch back, use some tape to stick the screw to the bit. This will help to position the screw inside the hole.

Not saying this method is better than others. It is just another alternative. I found the screws came off very easy and was happy for leaving the break-off bolts intact.

I hope this will be useful for someone!

Greetings from Oslo,
Alexander

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Pretty much the identical method I used. Not difficult, just a bit fiddly and not a long job

The 1/4" ratchet in many miniature bit-driver sets will get on the back of the electrical portion just fine once the plug is removed. The one I bought from Rat Shack years ago had a knurled wheel on top - turn it with your fingers once you've broken the tension on the fastener.

That said, I watched a pro wrench use a screwdriver with a flexible shaft to swap one in about 5 minutes. Time is money...

Alexander, thanks for the detailed photos.

350 miles from home in my 86 930, ign switch flaked at gas station when filling up and had to get a few guys to push me. I'll be replacing this weekend, thanks for all the tips! Parked on a hill at the hotel in case it does not start in the morning!

BTW, Should I get genuine or OE Supplier? I can have the OE this week, genuine will take a few extra days..

For those who drilled out the rivets and was able to remove the break off bolts, what did you use to replace them with as one of mine is closed to be completely stripped.