Chain tensioners adventure

[kavadarci]

Hi,
So I finally removed the chain covers today and on the left hand side I see blue collar already installed. Ok, good sign.
I went to the right side, first about 5 studs came out with the nuts and the right side has no collar.
I find this extremely weird and wondering why would one do just one side.

I have the new collars and the tensioners rebuild kits but I’m freaking out that I might mess things up and create havoc.

I also have the new rails but from what I can tell the ones in the engine have no wear.

The chain is tight, no signs of wear anywhere and all looks pretty good.

I talked to the previous owner and he has not done any work on the tensioners since he bought the car in 1992.

What do you guys recommend?

The risk is so high here that I am thinking of putting new collars and getting out of there for now.

[snbush67]

I would be surprised if the other blue collared tensioner was not hanging out close by your sump. Perhaps remove the sump plate and investigate.

I would recommend that if you already have new ramps go ahead and replace the old ones whether worn or not (1992 was a long time ago), that way you can be sure that they are installed correctly and have clicked into place.

[kavadarci]

I did remove the sump cover gasket and There was nothing there.
Thereby are no signs of metal anywhere.
Also I believe there should be marks on the chain tensioner.

At the end of the day it might have been chewed up already.

[sixbanger]

Get a mirror and look up in the lower area of the case. Use good light.

[zedsn]

Collars are purchased in pairs and I would think that both would be installed and not just one.

[kavadarci]

I looked inside the case when I replaced the sum cover and I cleaned the oil return tubes.
If it is still inside the engine case must be hiding pretty well.

Also, does it make sense to replace the collars at this point and plan for rebuild later?

[zedsn]

Why not do both now? The tensioners are pretty easy to remove. I used cable ties to keep the chain into position so it wouldn't move on either side. I also made a tool to keep the tensioner squeezed down together and removed the tool after the install.

[john walker's workshop]

The right side has no passage to the sump like the left side does. Best to at least remove the tensioners and check for squishyness, which you can't do properly wuth them installed. If you set the engine on TDC #1, the cams will stay in position when the tensioner is removed. Just don't turn the crank or the cams when they're out.

[kavadarci]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

The right side has no passage to the sump like the left side does. Best to at least remove the tensioners and check for squishyness, which you can't do properly wuth them installed. If you set the engine on TDC #1, the cams will stay in position when the tensioner is removed. Just don't turn the crank or the cams when they're out.

John,
Do I have to put the engine to tdc?
What if I don’t and remove the tensioners as they sit now?

I’m asking this as I am not sure that my distributor is at the correct position.

Thank you

[john walker's workshop]

The cams will move and jump time, then you need the dial gauge to reset cam timing. What's so hard about lining up the pulley mark (Z1) to the split in the case? When #1 is TDC, both valves on #1 will have clearance, and if the engine was running previously, the rotor will point to #1 plug wire.

[30westrob]

I would suspect that in the past the left side had a tensioner collapse. They replaced or repaired the tensioner and added the blue collar. If everything looks good you could just add a collar to the right side and close.
Rebuilding the tensioners properly requires finesse and a special tool. Rob

[kavadarci]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

The cams will move and jump time, then you need the dial gauge to reset cam timing. What's so hard about lining up the pulley mark (Z1) to the split in the case? When #1 is TDC, both valves on #1 will have clearance, and if the engine was running previously, the rotor will point to #1 plug wire.

I don’t have z1 and the distributor was removed couple of times.

[john walker's workshop]

Look at the end of the cams. They have flat sides. When #1 is at TDC, the punch mark is at the top and the multi numbered part # is at the bottom, and the pulley notch Z1 is at the case split/notch on the alternator housing. The valves on #1 have clearance and #4 intake is opening. Use a mirror and flashlight on the front of the pulley edge and you should see a Z1.

[Jack Stands]

It does seem strange that there would only be one clamp, but perhaps a failed tensioner was rebuilt and the collar installed while the other side was left alone. The collars are a good idea along with the idler arms that have the wider bearing surface (or the original ones modified like Supertec does to increase the surface on the original idlers).

[kavadarci]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

Look at the end of the cams. They have flat sides. When #1 is at TDC, the punch mark is at the top and the multi numbered part # is at the bottom, and the pulley notch Z1 is at the case split/notch on the alternator housing. The valves on #1 have clearance and #4 intake is opening. Use a mirror and flashlight on the front of the pulley edge and you should see a Z1.

Will check again but I have checked multiple times and know how z1 should look like and I don’t have it.

[john walker's workshop]

Turn the crank clockwise until the cams are in this position and align the nearest notch on the pulley to the case split or the mark on the fan housing. That's #1 TDC.

(next post for pic.)

[john walker's workshop]

Pics keep coming out sideways. Anyway, see the punch mark/911? That needs to be facing up @12 o'clock to be on #1 TDC.

[DeRRis]