QuickJack 3500/5000 with 3.2 AND 981

[ADDvanced]

Originally Posted by ahoch

Quickjackers, do you have a little bit of side to side sway when the jacks are locked in the high position? My first lift tonight. It feels otherwise very solid but the sway is a tad disconcerting.

None. Solid AF

[almostordinary]

Originally Posted by JCGMS

Resurrecting to highlight some new developments:

1. Quickjack now makes a crossbeam adapter that allows you to keep the quickjacks parallel even when the lift points are staggered, kinda like in the last post above. Pricey and not sure it solves the problem of rubbing on the front wheels.

2. While reading the link for #1 above it seems like the quickjacks can also be placed sideways (one across the front and one across the back). They caution that the weight distribution should be as close to 50/50 as possible. This is likely because one side will lift (or drop?) faster than the other. Anyone willing to try? Not sure if it will help with wheel clearance, and it also may obscure areas under the car-eg transmission mounts.




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Bring back an old thread, finally have QJ and on my 87 the lift points are staggered.

I lifted the car without the jacks being parallel and the back rear wheel got pulled into the jack body.

Luckily I have 6ton jacks for my G55 and was able to course correct, but it was scary.
Pu two under the front tow bars, two under the torsion tubes and was able to lower the car and reposition the QJ.

Anyone use the cross member solution, it's $400, but an investment in safety.

What's the plywood solution does it just make the QJ base wider to allow for the staggered lift points on the later G-Body cars?

I don't want to go sideways since the purpose of buying them was to install my drivetrain, and my garage isn't wide enough.

Thanks!
Ian

[pmax]

Originally Posted by MrBonus

I have the regular QuickJack 5000SLX and I lift mine by the lift points on the body. I believe the earlier G-Bodies didn't have them though.

Unless I'm missing something, how did this offset placement even work given the car translates horizontally during the lift ?

[Sajan]

Originally Posted by almostordinary

Bring back an old thread, finally have QJ and on my 87 the lift points are staggered.

I lifted the car without the jacks being parallel and the back rear wheel got pulled into the jack body.

Luckily I have 6ton jacks for my G55 and was able to course correct, but it was scary.
Pu two under the front tow bars, two under the torsion tubes and was able to lower the car and reposition the QJ.

Anyone use the cross member solution, it's $400, but an investment in safety.

What's the plywood solution does it just make the QJ base wider to allow for the staggered lift points on the later G-Body cars?

I don't want to go sideways since the purpose of buying them was to install my drivetrain, and my garage isn't wide enough.

Thanks!
Ian

ya i played around with making the QJ parallel and had it right, barely on one lift. haven't tried it since. the first attempted had the car lifting sideways! scary stuff.

Originally Posted by pmax

Unless I'm missing something, how did this offset placement even work given the car translates horizontally during the lift ?

ya that picture of the car on the QJ.....is not sitting well with me.
1. the jacks should switch sides. the lock mechanism should be visible.
2. the jacks don't seem parallel.

[almostordinary]

I didn't update the thread, but I bought the cross-member for $400 on Summit Racing.

For the later 3.2 G-Body you will need to get that cross member. On earlier G-Bodies the lift points are parallel front to back.

On later G-Body cars the front are quite a bit closer to the outside of the body, hence the non-parallel lift points.

After getting the Cross Member lifting is super simple on my 87.

Getting the cross member under the car is a whole different can of worms.

I would NOT lift later g-body cars without the cross member. When the QJ's aren't parallel you are asking for trouble... and I don't need to spell out what trouble you can get into if your car suddenly gets taken over by gravity.

Be Safe.
-Ian

[Sajan]

Originally Posted by almostordinary

For the later 3.2 G-Body you will need to get that cross member. On earlier G-Bodies the lift points are parallel front to back.

On later G-Body cars the front are slightly closer to the outside of the body, hence the non-parallel lift points.

After getting the Cross Member lifting is super simple on my 87.

Getting the cross member under the car is a whole different can of worms.

I would NOT lift later g-body cars without the cross member. When the QJ's aren't parallel you are asking for trouble... and I don't need to spell out what trouble you can get into if your car suddenly gets taken over by gravity.

Be Safe.
-Ian

tell us more about the can of worms and the cross member..

honestly I am thinking about getting this...
$250. I can do 12" on two wheels or 6" on four..

6" should be enough height to do an oil change at level..

https://www.amazon.com/Race-Ramps-RR-WC-12-2-Adjustable-Wheel/dp/B003ZA926K?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1

[almostordinary]

The can of worms is getting the cross member under the car.... then onto the quickjack platform itself.

There are 4 mounting points w the x-member.
- Two to the quick jacks
- Two to the car

The QJ is already a tight fit under a slightly lowered 911.

Getting the x-member requires you to get the QJs placed under the car, then sliding the cross member from one side to the other ** roughly 60lb probably heavier **. It's 5.5ft of thick steel.

After the member is slid in place you need to place each of the square pads to the QJ in place then you need to reassemble the pads that go to the car.
(This consists of removing the retaining bolts, sliding the car support base on, then reinstalling the retaining bolts.... this all makes sense once you do it...)
For each side you may need to lift the side, get the pad in and then repeat.

I've done it quite a bit, but still adds about 20min to lifting the car.

Two things I've learned doing the above..

1.) It's a pain for doing small tasks
2.) It makes you go in with a gameplan to attack multiple errands while you've got it in the air

I'd suggest getting the x-beam... it's safer and once you get the routine down, you find yourself doing a little more work while you're there, which is always good.

[ADDvanced]

That sounds like a PITA. Have considered just saying to hell with the factory lift points just using a larger rubber pad so you can get the jacks parallel without anything between them?

[MrBonus]

Originally Posted by pmax

Unless I'm missing something, how did this offset placement even work given the car translates horizontally during the lift ?

That pic is 5 years old and no, I don't lift my car(s) like that anymore. I had it nearly tumble off and realized I wasn't squared up properly.

[pmax]

Originally Posted by MrBonus

That pic is 5 years old and no, I don't lift my car(s) like that anymore. I had it nearly tumble off and realized I wasn't squared up properly.

Good to hear nothing bad ensued !

Based on the pic, not sure about anyone else, until very recently I had the wrong impression that it's OK to lift like that.

[almostordinary]

I had my 87 up a couple times like that and never did the widow maker test... when I did I almost lost it.

The x-bar takes getting used to, but it's ultimately the safest on later G-Body cars w/ the QJ system.

[MrBonus]

Originally Posted by pmax

Good to hear nothing bad ensued !

Based on the pic, not sure about anyone else, until very recently I had the wrong impression that it's OK to lift like that.

Yeah, I had done it a few times with no issue, then one time one side was teetering slightly. Put it down very quickly and fortunately nothing bad happened but it was definitely the scariest moment of my automotive life.

[steenkamp]

That's my '89 3.2 on a Quickjack 5000TL - note the extra height

I am also using this Quickjack for my MB W124 with the Quickjack Frame Extension

Guido

[Hlcass]

I bought Quick Jack 3500 off a buddy and realized it was too short to hit the jack points on my 911sc, so I used 2x8 boards for a while, but my car is low, so difficult and time consuming locating the blocks on the lift points.

Then I just turned the quick perpendicular and I can find the lift points easily without the need for the 2x8. Very stable. I can get the car in the air in about 7 minutes from the time I think about lifting it up.

I understand that the crossbar option is not for the 3500.

Any issue with this way of lifting the car?

[GothingNC]

No issue using them sideways per quickjack. https://youtu.be/N1u1E45Tyh0?feature=shared

[Hlcass]

Many Thanks! I didn’t know that video existed.

[Tobydog61]

So I am using a new TL7000 for the first time to lift an '88 Porsche 911 G50. Did not realize the issue of the jack points not being in line until now. I found that if I notched the rear blocks slightly to allow them to sit a little more inboard on the rear and have the front blocks as far outboard as possible, the lifts are parallel. It seems very stable but I am lifting on the extreme inside of the lift at the rear and the outside at the front. I think all is ok but would appreciate any comments users might have. Lifting sideways or using the 2X12 may be better. The QJ cross member seems messy. Gotta think this one through but would appreciate any comments.