Need advice on walking rocker shaft

[Bigdog1758]

Hi everyone, I'm asking for advice here. Less than 3,000 miles ago, I had the top end of my 83 SC rebuilt for just over $10k at a recommended and well known independent Dallas Porsche shop, a three hour drive for me. I've had several problems since then and my latest has me losing sleep.
I noticed a oil leak on the driver's front side. After eliminating the valve cover, I discovered that the front left rocker shaft had shifted and is protruding from the motor. The bolt and the bushing fell out with the valve cover removal. Obviously, the bolt wasn't properly tightened.
I'm not a mechanic, so I need some help here. I've been doing a lot of reading up on it, but have some questions. I understand that there are o-rings that will most likely will need replacing, so simply tapping the shaft back in is out of the question? Should I replace the shaft and bolt/nuts for security/safety too? The shaft doesn't seem to wiggle or move freely, must I rotate the motor to relieve the tension on the rocker arm to remove the shaft? Will it just come out then? If I replace the shaft, does it need to be tapped in with something, or does it just slide in? Does it matter which direction the bolt goes in? I think that it would be easier to torque properly if installed from the out-side of the motor? I'd appreciate any advice and input!

[carreradpt]

Big dog, there is a thread on this subject that has come up relatively recently. Do a search for it, might help you get started.

[Jack Stands]

Good thing you found that before it backed out all the way! That could have caused more than just an oil leak. I wonder if the wedge fasteners came loose to allow the shaft to move or if the hole is wallowed out?

[carreradpt]

Here's a couple.
3.2 Rocker Arm Shafts
You Must CHECK the Rocker Shaft Bolts when you DIY Valve Adjust!

[Bigdog1758]

I think that the "tin" kept it from backing all the way out. I've spent the whole morning and most of the night researching this problem and found some good info, but still have questions on it. I'm hoping that nothing was/is seriously damaged....

[Bigdog1758]

Yep, read them, but don't address my questions. I learnt that the bolts need to be checked. Excellent advice! Now I know!

[Trackrash]

Wow. Send a picture to the mechanic who did the assembly!

I would be very concerned to find where the missing pieces went. Fell out when you removed the valve cover?

At any rate there are no o-ring seals normally used on these shafts. There is a special order "racing" o-ring that some will install. I don't see one in your pic.

If I was you, I would replace the screw and wedge washers, and torque it down. When torqued it should not be able to be moved. It it stays loose after torquing, well that is another story.

Then check and re-torque all the other shafts. In fact Porsche used to recommend that they be checked at every valve adjust.

[Flat6pac]

There is a sequence to installation.
The five mm Allen has to be assessable to tighten.
The out side on both end cylinders will be the nut side.
Looking at the slide through bosses, one side is thick, one side thinner.
You want to slide the shaft through and have it just at level on the narrower side. That’s the balance.
The o rings you mentioned are optional after factory installations.
Torque at New is twelve pounds but the rockers need to be tighter than that because the aluminum carriers are used and deformed. Approx twenty lbs Is suggested for torque.
Shafts just slide through then lock.
Bruce

[proporsche]

Big dog..did your mechanic do 1000 mile recheck-service on your 911 engine?It must be done if not these shaft will get loose..
Ivan
to add to Gordon+Bruse`s advice here is a pick

[Bigdog1758]

Thanks everyone, all advice is welcome. The nuts and bolts were there, just floating around loose.
I did send a photo to the shop, but from my experience with him, it won't come to anything.
He did drive it around for a day or two before readjusting valve clearance. Not sure if he checked the shaft bolts.
BTW, nothing to do with anything, but his driving the car around before readjusting the valves cost me $250...in labor. Obviously, it was used in running errands.

[brighton911]

Lucky for you it didn't cause major damage. Disappointing that you paid for good work and didn't get it. I would find a shop that stands behind their work, it was clearly their fault. That being said, were it mine, I would check all of the rocker shaft bolts.

[Bigdog1758]

Oh, I'll check them all, just in case. I've ordered a new shaft, bolt, nuts and o rings from our host. Cheap and it will put my mind at ease.

[proporsche]

big dog..the service should have been free.That is basic procedure when pro 911 mechanics redo the engines ,even only top.
At least i have never charged client for 1000 mile service ...same goes for adjusting valves after only 2 day driving is not enough mileage...

Ivan

[nene]

Mechanics like this don't belong in the business!!!!!

[Bigdog1758]

Yeah, makes me mad to even see the bill....I keep it hidden and out of sight. I read good things about the place on the internet, and it has a fan base in Dallas. Bad luck I guess. I wish I had a dependable shop close by.

[GK81]

Who do you guys recommend in Dallas? I have had a couple average experiences here. No shop yet that I was wowed by...if there is anyone to avoid could you direct message me so as not to broadcast it publically

[Jack Stands]

Ed Mayo in Euless, TX is the PCA 911 tech advisor and seems to have a great reputation. No personal experience other than seeing and hearing him speak at the Parade Tech sessions.

[88911coupe]

I ran into this myself, except I was the mechanic who did the rebuild...LOL In my case #4 intake moved out a bit but it took several thousand miles. I went back and checked them all and none had moved that I could see. Not to defend the mechanic but it he was following the Porsche specs they can move since the torque values are too low on engines that have been rebuilt. I found a LOT of dried oil in several of the "open" areas between cylinders, and I had used the RSR seals, so I"m assuming it was the valve cover gaskets leaking. I put in new ones so hopefully that will stop or reduce the oil leaks. Next step is to install the very pricey special bolts from Race Tec or whoever makes those and won't have to worry.
Also Ed Mayo has a spectacular reputation. I have never used him but a good friend has had his shop build 3 911 track cars and totally trusts him. Zims is good, from what little I have been able to tell. I do 99% of my own work but Zims went over all the cams, pistons, cylinders and crank when I did the rebuild to check them all out. i used Louden on my last 911 for a clutch job and they did great work they also did all the work back when I was driving BMWs but that was a LONG time ago.

[88911coupe]

I just noticed something about that diagram...the end of the arm on the "thin" side is pushed in a little further than what I've seen recommended. Isn't it typically supposed to be a little proud of the opening?

[T77911S]

I had one come out on the exhaust side.

here is a little tip for checking/tightening

once tightened, remove the allen holding the other side and torque it again. if it spins, it will come back out, if not, you are good. same for checking the rest,

the very end of the shaft flares out, if it is sticking out it cant "grab'' the housing.