1969 Electric Clock Power Consumption/Fuse Recommendation?

[Rich911E]

I pulled my Kienzle electric clock from my 1969 and found that the culprit is the soldered connection in the inside. It seems that this connection is made with a very low temperature solder (250 degrees Fahrenheit) that acts as an internal fuse. I have done a search on the Net and the special solder seems difficult to obtain.

Instead of relying on the low temperature solder as a fuse, I was thinking of just soldering the connection with conventional solder and then putting an in-line fuse to the clock. This way, if the fuse blows, I don't have to take the clock back out of the car, etc., etc.

However, I was wondering if anyone knows how much the clock really draws? Since the clock draws very little power and too much can fry it, I was thinking about using a 1 amp fuse (Radio Shack). I would think Iwould be safe at 1 amp, but just wanted to see if anyone knew for sure.

Thanks in advance.

Rich

[pwd72s]

Sorry, no idea...you are aware that there are services that can covert the clock to quartz?

[Rich911E]

I did see that there are services that will convert it and I would prefer a quartz clock which is probably a 100 times more accurate, but it is pretty expensive and the clock seems to work just fine apart from this little connection. According to the tech article, this little connection seems to be the common problem with this clock that otherwise works fine. Thanks for the suggestion though and I may end up doing it if this little experiment doesn't work.

Also, does anybody know if the rubber press fit gauge rings will fit on the old gauges? Getting those little finger-nuts off is a royal pain!

Rich

[pwd72s]

Again, not sure...anybody know when they went to the press fit rubber ring? You might have to enlarge the dash holes, but I don't see gauge weight being a problem. As an aside, my memory must really be failing. I thought my '69 912 used the rubber rings..but I did trade the car in on a 1970 911, 33 years ago..If you'd care to experiment, I know that N. Hollywood Speedo stocks the rubber rings..

[Rich911E]

Thanks for the source -- I have to visit N. Hollywood Speedo someday -- they seem to have some neat services. Wow -- 33 years of experience with a 911 -- you should be able to rebuild this car in your sleep. Thanks.

Rich

[pwd72s]

Rich, thanks for the kind words...but hardly! I'm not nearly as hand skilled as most who post here...the paranoia that I'll really screw things up creeps in, so I limit myself to the simple stuff, scream for help if I even think I'll get in trouble. The reason I knew N. Hollywood had the new rubber rings is that I just shipped a press/temp gauge down there for Evren's project. The gauge was from a car being parted out, so they are going to check for function, repair & restore as needed, and give it a new rubber ring, since it arrived here without one. Once I get it back, plus the senders & washers I ordered from Pelican, we'll figure out how to get it all to Evren. Helping him with a project in Istanbul has made me realize that we here in the USA don't have any problems at all...

[Early_S_Man]

I believe the ' easy' install gauges were introduced on the '70 models ...

A working, used quartz clock should be available for well under $75, IMO. I don't think it would be ver dificult to adapt to a '69 instrument panel ... perhaps as easy as leaving off the rubber ring.

In the interim, I think a 1/4 Amp fuse would be adequate protection, and I'm sure the current drain on the clock is under 100 milliAmps.

[Rich911E]

Warren:

Thanks for the suggestion. I would think that you are correct in the power requirement and I will start with a 0.25 amp fuse and see how it goes.

From all the tech articles, it seems that this joint is the primary problem with all these clocks and if this external fuse cures the problem I'll post my results. Although quartz works better, I just like mechanical clocks and watches (I wear an old 1960's Omega Constellation daily) so it will be sort of a challenge to making this one work. However, I may end up having to submit to the new clock if I want one that actually tells time on my dash.

Thanks

[dhoward]

The current drain on the clock is minimal and momentary. It actuates a small solenoid that essentially rewinds the mechanism every couple of minutes. I couldn't fit the clock in my 69 with just the rubber ring. It looked like the hole was just a tad too small, so I reused the original metal clamps. What a PIA. Any short that would happen would take place within the solenoid, and that wire's pretty light gauge.

[keitho64]

Rich

I say leave the clock out and install a CHT gauge along with some kind of idiot light for the oil pressure. (see other threads on Pelican) This way, when you go out for an evening drive and come home late, you could always say, "Honey, I didn't know it was so late, my car does not have a clock!"

I am going to experiment with using the rubber retainers on my gauges as well. I will be working on that this weekend since I will be installing heat exchangers as well...did I happen to say Thanks!

[Rich911E]

Hmmm? Good idea, but does that work with your Barb? I think if I tried that the term IDIOT light would be possessive with respect to the driver!

Now that you have some heat in that puppy, get it on the road. I still think that 17 degrees is plenty warm enough with a good sweater and some mittens. Real 911 drivers don't need heat.

Rich

[keitho64]

What do you mean 17, it is a heat wave today, 33 now. It feels like summer.

[golefty]

Rich:
You are probably correct in your assumption that if you can solder the two pieces together your clock will work again. I had the same problem with mine and took a satandard soldering iron to it. I suspect I lucked out by not frying anything and in fact got it to connect. Now the clock works. I'm in agreement with you regarding the appeal of a working mechanism with a real mechanical movement rather than quartz movement. Especially in an older Porsche - just seems like the right thing to do.
Good luck.

[CraigD]

I purchased low temp solder and flux from a jewelry supply store. Something like $15 for both. The solder melts when you get a soldering iron near it, very low temp. I fixed my clock and the clock in my buddys 71 VW Ghia. Took lots of fiddling around with the adjustment but the clock keeps time pretty well.

Good luck whatever you do with the clock,

[Rich911E]

GoLefty and CraigD:

Thanks for the tips. I hadn't thought about a jewelry supply store but that is a great idea. I spent the rest of the weekend putting the rest of the dash back together, repainting and polishing everything as I went. The clock is this week/weekend project.

Rich

[keitho64]

Post Pictures. :-)