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-   -   Stuck spark plug (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/987453-stuck-spark-plug.html)

theiceman 02-14-2018 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by manbridge 74 (Post 9925307)
Modern spark plugs of a good name brand are coated already. Tightened correctly and they should never give a guy any problems.

this ...look carefully and you can see it on the threads before you put it in .

proporsche 02-14-2018 07:47 AM

I have replace maybe over 1000 spark plugs in my 911 repair biss live i have always used HHS200 since the 1980`s and if i did not have it at hand i used ZEP 45.....never any anti-sieze or other stuff.
Ivan
https://interbauen.ee/images/thumbna...31965_5489.png

88911coupe 02-14-2018 08:15 AM

I think the confusion on this issue was due to the plugs, at some point, having their threads treated so no anti seize was needed after that "update". I did not catch this and have used copper anti seize on plugs forever but now realize I probably shouldn't have done that. Or at least it was not needed since I use NGK plugs. I have a real fear of a plug pulling out the cylinder head threads with the plug.

Steam Driver 02-14-2018 08:26 AM

I have used anti-seize on plugs for years with no issues. The key thing with the copper stuff is don’t get it on the nose of the plug, the theory being that the heat of combustion will deposit the copper on the electrode and insulator and ground it out.

There is also the graphite-based stuff aircraft mechanics use, tha Champion.

It would be a hard sell to me to convince me not to use an anti-seize anyplace there are dissimilar metals involved.

manbridge 74 02-14-2018 10:07 AM

Champion plugs were never coated as I recall, hence the graphite recommendation.

KTL 02-16-2018 10:24 AM

I was paging through the collection of TSBs I have and recalled seeing this topic about stuck spark plugs and the debate about antiseize. Just thought i'd post these for FYI.

Sorry but I don't have the TSB dated 6-14-91 referenced on the supersession label in the first image below.........

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1518808966.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1518808966.jpg

adias 02-16-2018 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by proporsche (Post 9924865)
Nick get your self Wurth HHS 2000 for the spark plugs .I have been using it for over 30 years and it is really the best..you can use it on everything clutch omega spring, door latches, door hinges hood latches u name it ...
Ivan

Ivan: Do you also recommend HHS 2000 on hood struts? How does it affect rubber gaskets?

Would you recommend HHS 2000 on threads of oil drain plugs and such?

proporsche 02-16-2018 12:02 PM

Hi adias..i use it on most places on 911..it is very excellent lubricant and has very great heat resistance.(in video)
HHS 2000 and zep 45 is the best for our 911`s.....
You do not need to use any lube on hood shocks,also no need to use anything on drain plugs.It does not effect any rubber parts...
Ivan

adias 02-16-2018 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by proporsche (Post 9929003)
Hi adias..i use it on most places on 911..it is very excellent lubricant and has very great heat resistance.(in video)
HHS 2000 and zep 45 is the best for our 911`s.....
You do not need to use any lube on hood shocks,also no need to use anything on drain plugs.It does not effect any rubber parts...
Ivan

Merci Monsieur!

proporsche 02-16-2018 12:39 PM

de nada;-)

sugarwood 02-16-2018 02:39 PM

This is the kind of thing that gives me nightmares when thinking about a project.
What if a spark plug got stripped cross threads and/or just broke and got totally stuck in the hole?
How could you ever fix that? What is the worst case scenario?

KTL 02-16-2018 04:00 PM

Not uncommon for a spark plug hole to get boogered up. Doesn't happen all the time, but not uncommon. That's why they make these spark plug hole chasers to attempt to save the threads

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1518827904.jpg

If it's broken off and you can't get it out, well then on a conventional engine the head may need to come off and take it to a machine shop. In these 911 engines, ugh, engine usually comes out and head comes off. But breaking off the hex is pretty rare.

Still, if the threads are totally trashed, the head would need to receive a threaded insert to repair the spark plug hole. Once again Stomski continues to impress with his tool offerings.

https://www.stomskiracing.com/products/911-spark-plug-hole-repair-kit

But the above Stomskit tool would be for someone who works on these heads all the time. One of us DIYers would just take it to an experienced machine shop to fix the hole.

If that doesn't make you feel better and you still think it's doomsday coming, reach for The Bible?


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1518829137.jpg

Trackrash 02-16-2018 05:14 PM

I have a 3/8 drive extension that is a weird length and I use a plug socket that I MODIFIED the rubber insert to barely grip the plug. Easy in, easy out.

And I use just a slight bit of anti seize carefully applied to the threads. I have never had one come out hard. (no pun intended)

I know what NGK says, but that is because "mechanics" were getting anti- seize on the insulator.......

HaroldMHedge 02-16-2018 06:00 PM

Anti Seize Spark Plugs? Apparently not ...

Here's TSB 9102 from our host Wayne, see above thread.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1518835807.jpg

To me this just adds confusion to the use of anti seize on spark plug threads.

Reading both TSBs 78-03 and 9102, wither using the listed thread lubricant or not the torque remains the same.

Nick Triesch 02-16-2018 06:02 PM

I have a friend that restores muscle cars from the ground up. H says anti-seize . In fact, almost everyone says anti seize. Can’t see where a tiny dab on the threads will hurt.

manbridge 74 02-16-2018 06:32 PM

Probably a very tiny bit is fine which is probably the reason for the newer TSB bulletin. Most guys seem to have the idea that if a little does a little a lot does a lot!


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