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Stuck spark plug

I'm starting to do a full tune-up on my Carrera and started with removing number 3 plug. It will not come out! I have the spark plug tool that came in the kit and I cannot get it to turn but just a bit with great force. The regular spark plug tools from places like AutoZone are too fat to go down the hole. They get stuck! Plugs have been installed for about three years with probably 5000 miles on them. I soaked the area with liquid wrench which usually works great for most things. Please any thoughts or ideas? Thanks, Nick
Old 02-12-2018, 02:54 PM
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Engine is stone cold right?
Old 02-12-2018, 02:55 PM
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THe tool with the kit is for hand installation before you torque it with regular tools. For removal, you use a regular long socket without any rubber inserts, flexible joint, short extension all taped together so they don't slide out. Once the plug is loose, you remove your tool, fish the plug out with a magnet.
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Old 02-12-2018, 03:05 PM
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Motor is cold. I tried to get the plug out using a short extension and 13/16 spark plug tool. Ill buy a regular deep socket tomorrow.
Old 02-12-2018, 03:21 PM
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Usually caused by the previous installer not torquing the plug correctly, they left it loose and carbon from the combustion chamber traveled up the threads. Just keep working it back and forth with the penetrating oil.
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Old 02-12-2018, 05:18 PM
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Thanks Marc.
Old 02-12-2018, 06:18 PM
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was the engine running fine before attempting to remove the spark plug? Only time I had difficulty removing a spark plug was when there was a serious problem with that cylinder (piston broke and mucked up the spark plug (smashed it)).

If the spark plug socket wont fit down the hole, put it on a grinder and make it skinnier. Then use a short socket extender with a wiggler (CV thing) that adds a 1/2 inch or so to the length of the short socket extender. Once loose enough, remove the socket wrench and turn by hand.

Good luck,

Chris
Old 02-13-2018, 11:41 AM
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I got it! Holy smokes it was tight. I let it soak in KB Blaster for hours. Also , I bought at Home Depot a deep 21 mm socket. Yes car was running fine. This was my fault. I always coat the new plug threads with motor oil and have no problem. I will buy some anti-seize . Also, the first three plugs that I removed look really good. But I can tell they are worn but not oiley.
Old 02-13-2018, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Triesch View Post
I got it! Holy smokes it was tight. I let it soak in KB Blaster for hours. Also , I bought at Home Depot a deep 21 mm socket. Yes car was running fine. This was my fault. I always coat the new plug threads with motor oil and have no problem. I will buy some anti-seize . Also, the first three plugs that I removed look really good. But I can tell they are worn but not oiley.
Odd, eh?

Glad you got it to budge a bit originally. Allowed the penetrant to creep.
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Old 02-13-2018, 12:04 PM
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Nick get your self Wurth HHS 2000 for the spark plugs .I have been using it for over 30 years and it is really the best..you can use it on everything clutch omega spring, door latches, door hinges hood latches u name it ...
Ivan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y33Fm1mwRiU

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Last edited by proporsche; 02-13-2018 at 12:19 PM..
Old 02-13-2018, 12:17 PM
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What ever you use DON'T use antisieze. Antisieze is electrically conductive, and can cause a plug to ground out if the antisieze gets on the electrode. We use a small amount of standard grease. Just a dab on the threads. Don't overdue it. I guess HHS2000 would work, but as a spray, it's a bit sloppy.
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Old 02-13-2018, 01:21 PM
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Thanks Ivan, thanks Marc
Old 02-13-2018, 01:28 PM
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I go dry. NGK at least suggests you should as well.


http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/NGK_TB-0630111antisieze.pdf

For what it's worth, here are the factory service manual specs for a 2005 Subaru engine that also has aluminum cylinder heads and the specified spark plug is NGK:


Tightening torque:
21 N��m (2.1 kgf-m, 15.2 ft-lb)
NOTE:
The above torque should be only applied to new
spark plugs without oil on their threads.
In case their threads are lubricated, the torque
should be reduced by approx. 1/3 of the specified
torque in order to avoid over-stressing.

Last edited by SCadaddle; 02-13-2018 at 06:46 PM..
Old 02-13-2018, 06:36 PM
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Modern spark plugs of a good name brand are coated already. Tightened correctly and they should never give a guy any problems.
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Old 02-13-2018, 06:56 PM
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It's always amazing, and amusing, the variety of conflicting advice one gets on every mechanical subject imaginable; I've been using nickle based anti-seize on spark plugs in all manner of two and four stroke engines (including aircraft), and diesel glow plugs, for over 30 years with nothing buy excellent results, so would advise the direct opposite of what Marc did above.

Also, Nick, I would never use oil, or petroleum based grease as there is a possibility it will coke in the threads (due to the heat there) and make the plugs very difficult to remove (had this happen on a aircooled motorcycle engine a long time ago).

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 02-13-2018 at 08:38 PM..
Old 02-13-2018, 08:34 PM
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My son in law who restores mopar cars like new just told me to dab a bit of anti-seize on the threads. I’ll tell you that number 3 was so hard to get out (took days) that I may use a bit. BTW, when I finally got the plug out the threads were not all chewed up like I thought they would be.
Old 02-14-2018, 05:03 AM
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Do we think Cyl 3 was the stuck one because of heat issues from it being at the back of the airflow from the fan? Got any mice living under the engine shroud? Just curious why that one and not the others.
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Old 02-14-2018, 05:59 AM
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Use it if you must. I wouldn’t use it in a customers GT3 or 918 because it adds in another variable, is uneccesarily messy and unprofessional. I’ve also taken plugs out of several Carrera 2.7RS cars restored or maintained by top guys who were in the trenches back in the day. All with no anti-seize.
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Old 02-14-2018, 06:23 AM
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No atinseize on plugs. Just torque correctly.
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Old 02-14-2018, 06:35 AM
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