Front Windshield Rust
 

So my front windshield developed a crack recently. Bought a new windshield and seal and removed the old one out. This is what I found. Bottom left corner is in worse shape than the bottom right but doesn’t look too terrible overall. The seal was covering it all. What’s the proper procedure for removing and preventing rust in the future. Doing it in my garage. Step by step would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance.

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looks like all you need to do is get a wire brush attachment for a drill and brush off the paint and rust to see how far underneath the rust goes. It looks very superficial so you may not need to replace and sheet metal.

Here's what you avoided.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/686953-why-windshield-trim-should-regular-maintenance-item.html

I have a similar situation, though not as bad as yours. I'm using Würth metal prep to clean up the rust, then will use their rust-converting paint to kill it. It's under the seal, so I'm not too concerned about color....

A wire brush is not a bad approach either.

You, my son, have got off lightly. Usually its a hole through the metal that needs cutting out and welding. Then the repair place starts going on about the structural rigidity being compromised. Then all the usual rust prevention, primer, top coat etc.

3rd picture down.

Is the noose for the hood ?

No that’s the battery cutoff switch.

Does looks superficial. I’m not seeing any holes although I haven’t really poked around too much. I guess I’ll start with a wire brush first and go from there.

I would remove the visible rust with a Scotchbrite pad, then apply Naval Jelly (available at local auto parts store) to remove the remaining rust. Naval jelly contains phosphoric acid which converts the metal to a less rustable surface. It may take more than one application to remove the rust. When you are satisfied that all rust is gone, rinse away any invisible naval jelly with sodium bicarbonate solution (make it yourself from baking soda and water). After the surface is dry, paint it to prevent air/moisture causing future corrosion. My local windshield place uses polyurethane windshield adhesive between the gasket and the metal to prevent future water entry.

I look forward to your update about getting your windshield back in.:D

Plot thickens a bit. Grinded it down with a wire wheel and the right side is fine but the left has a couple of small holes where rust ate through. Tiny but they’re there. What’s the best way to filll these?

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I would think a decent welder could close those up quite easily. as small as they are you shouldn't put too much heat into the surrounding area. it may cook a bit of paint in front of the window seal, but you are going to need to paint that area anyway.

I don’t have a welding machine at home and trying to avoid going to the nearest welder. Would look like an idiot driving with a race car in the middle of winter with no windshield on. :) one way or another this project will be finished in my garage. If I have to buy a welding machine so be it.

Was just browsing on the Por 15 site and they a product called Por 15 Patch. Looks like a perfect application for small cracks and holes. Any experience with it?

I had much the same on the Corolla and fixed (hid) it with JB Weld. Fine stuff, that JB Weld.

I had the same issue, but a bit worse. Luckily it was a pretty easy spot to patch.

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my thoughts are....
if there are small holes, then surface rust may be accumulating on the opposite side of the sheet metal.
But I would think you could do a couple of things still... spray the area with some rust inhibitor (I think Eastwood sells some nice products)... and/or seal up the area with some JB Weld (if it's good enough to seal an engine case, it should be good enough for this)... you'll have to let it harden and then sand it back to proper shape.

Nonetheless... you will at least repair the area for now... but without physically removing the sheet metal, there is a chance that rust will come back in a few years.

Most welders have a truck with a machine on it. they could just drive over and tig weld it up. Anything short of tig welding it up either you or someone else down the road will regret doing the repair to last. It's not a toyota that will be in a junk yard in a few years.

..unless plan a full respray at some point in the future

If so some JB weld will be fine until your ready to pull it a second time

It won’t bubble like bondo but not permanent like steel

If you do a full complete job and want to dig in, check the backside of your gauge pods for rust from this as well, usually the left gauge

the cancer is there and only way to remove it is by cut and welding. Anything else will be sticking your head into the sand. You caught it in time and it looks manageable. Chemical rust converters will not touch the intergranular corrosion around the perforations. Think long term and do the right thing

I went through the all the POR 15 steps. Used their POR 15 Patch product to fill the tiny holes. After all the sanding down, fill, and the POR15 application, primer, and lots of coats of paint, I feel confident, I won’t see rust there in a very very long time. Some pics below. Don’t mind the home spray paint. It will get professionally painted at some point. Just gotta get it ready for the first race next month.

After two bloody finger nails (putting the rope in the seal), I finally put the seal on and the windshield in. HOWEVER just realized I can’t put the trim with the windshield in the car. I took it out with it on the car so assumed steps were the same. So annoying now gotta take the windshield out again and fish that rope through. UGH!! more bloody fingers!!!

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As long as you remove the loose rust, properly treat and seal the area, then make sure it stays dry, you are good to go. I did repairs similar to this THIRTY years ago, and have not had any problems with those areas since....

In worse areas on my car, yes, I did the cut and replace dance.

Don't forget the new metal needs to be treated and sealed as well on the back side.