windshield installation - gaps in corners

[trond]

Going to a Porsche event last year I found about 10 SC’s. 8 or 9 out of these had open gaps in the corners of the windshield. As has mine. Over the years I must have paid 5 glass guys, used 5 seals (original, unoriginal (no chance) and the later modified Uro that is wider but still I have a gaps in two corners). I am on the 3 set of alu trim and IT STILL leaks and there is loud wind noise at speed. What to do ? Someone suggested to build up the corners with some nylon rope in the corners and yes I have shaped the trim to help pushing the seal out in the corners but still no luck. After todays longish drive in the rain I realize this has to be dealt with. Just venting frustration here, but obviously grateful for advice

[john walker's workshop]

Pack a blob of strip caulk in the corners before installing the glass. Dum-dum. 3M.

[Rodney Nelson]

Hi Trond,

I remember seeing someone post on here how the dealers would use a piece of rounded wood and a mallet to tap the seals into the corners to make them seat right. Have you found that post in your search or have you done this?

What about just swallowing your DIY pride and taking it to the dealer, they have no choice but to get it right or you keep rejecting it.

I've had a couple of SC and my seals were correct, unfortunately I was not involved in the installation.

Good luck,

Rodney

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by Rodney Nelson

Hi Trond,

I remember seeing someone post on here how the dealers would use a piece of rounded wood and a mallet to tap the seals into the corners to make them seat right. Have you found that post in your search or have you done this?

What about just swallowing your DIY pride and taking it to the dealer, they have no choice but to get it right or you keep rejecting it.

I've had a couple of SC and my seals were correct, unfortunately I was not involved in the installation.

Good luck,

Rodney

That! I used a piece of 1/2 thick plastic that I rounded the corners on. It's not your seal that is the problem. It's the metal piece that goes in the seal that is out of shape and pulling your corners in.

Scroll down in this thread and you'll see the 3M product John is talking about. Go into any automotive paint supply place that sells windshield seals and ask for dum dum putty and they'll know exactly what you're talking about if they're old enough.

Gap between Rubber Windshield Seal & Body

[Jonny042]

All helpful suggestions, but from what the OP says, he's tried pushing the seal out by shaping the trim. I've taken this approach but it has its limits.

3M makes a product that is similar to strip caulk, but comes in a tube. It is non-hardening but is a black goo that you can "inject" into the void in the corners. It may not visually correct the seal to body gap, but can possibly seal out the wind noise and water.

Google is not helping me, however....... when I got it from my local body shop supply place, I asked for "Dum-dum in a tube" and they knew what I was asking for.

[john walker's workshop]

Bedding and glazing compound.

[Lake Guy]

I’ve had similar problems. URO has a new seal with a 3 mm wider outer edge to cover these gaps. I’m going to try that. I’m just waiting a month or so to make sure the old seal style is out of the system before I order and ship to Canada.

[Jonny042]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

Bedding and glazing compound.

YES! That's it.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by Jonny042

All helpful suggestions, but from what the OP says, he's tried pushing the seal out by shaping the trim. I've taken this approach but it has its limits.

3M makes a product that is similar to strip caulk, but comes in a tube. It is non-hardening but is a black goo that you can "inject" into the void in the corners. It may not visually correct the seal to body gap, but can possibly seal out the wind noise and water.

Google is not helping me, however....... when I got it from my local body shop supply place, I asked for "Dum-dum in a tube" and they knew what I was asking for.

I think the only thing limiting someone from closing the gap on a relatively new seal by in moving the seal outward is your their own fear honestly. It sound like he has a relatively new seal in so it shouldn't have shrunk and need replaced. The aluminum trim is what is supposed to hold the seal in place. If the seal isn't in place, the trim needs formed with gentle persuasion to move the seal into place. When I installed my window I put the metal trim around the opening first and slightly formed it. I then installed everything and did finish fitting with the hammer and plastic piece I shaped to move the seal.

Just my .02. YMMV

[Trackrash]

Here is the method. A similar method is shown in the workshop manual. From this thread.
Gap between Rubber Windshield Seal & Body
Fit a thin wedge of wood under trim and lightly tap toward the outer edges and watch the seal move!

[al lkosmal]

Originally Posted by Trackrash

Here is the method. A similar method is shown in the workshop manual. From this thread.
Gap between Rubber Windshield Seal & Body
Fit a thin wedge of wood under trim and lightly tap toward the outer edges and watch the seal move!

This is what I have done....and it worked very well......
I'd combine this approach with some of the 3M caulk strips next time i do it.

regards,
al

[911obgyn]

Use hardwood to avoid splinters, you may have to hit it pretty hard with deadblow hammer.

[AndrewCologne]

Check here:
Windshield Install Question

[Robert Adams]

I used the artificial shims and rounded the thin end, Worked like a dream & no possibility for splinters.

[kd126500]

In the process of finalizing my outlaw build and with fresh paint and bodywork, the car looks great except for a gap in the top drivers front window edge. I read the forums, and suggestions about filling the gap with "name your flexible silicon here" but wasn't satisfied that that could be the right answer.

Anyways long and short of it, I tried the URO seal after reviews thinking that might be the solution and a cheap alternative before i went OEM again. Unfortunatly too large and the window kept popping out. The shop had a very well know 40 year Porsche expert look at the gap and comment cars are hand built and it happens. The shop also had a window installer take a look and his answer was to silicon the seal and fill the gap.

Still not satisfied, I dug deep into the forum and came across this thread. Genius! I went ahead and ordered a new OEM Porsche seal and fashioned myself a similar tool. In my case I used a paint stir stick from home depot which they give out for their 5 gal paint. This is much larger than the standard stir stick. I rounded the edges and sanded a lip and back to the shop I went.

This time around, window went in easier. and the gap appeared again. I pulled out my new tool and went to work with the amazement of the shop. You would have thought it was the second coming with all the excitement. Photos were taken and shared with the Porsche expert and the shop couldn't want to pass on their new found expertise to solve an age old problem. "that's just the way it is" no longer has to be.

Thanks to the forum and Randy for sharing his knowledge.

[911obgyn]

Do not use silicone! Bedding compound will stop the leaks and wind noise, i did use a bit of nylon cord with sealant in the seal on the upper corners of the glass, got it close then used wood carved wedge to tap the aluminum out and close up the gap. I double wrapped the cord around the Porsche seal so there was a second chance of getting the lip over the pinch weld.

[Harpo]

Great info

Is this being done on the inside of the car or outside?

Thanks

David

[911obgyn]

The aluminum trim outside is where you push the corners