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Clutch Issue-I think it's cable or pedal related (I Hope)

Hello,

Long story short, I bought a 77 911 with a 3.2 liter installed. I've been slowly working through the issues. Got it running, sorted some electrical issues etc.

When I bought the car it did not run but I have receipts and was told by previous owner that it ran with the 3.2 and a newly rebuilt trans installed.

Just finished installing a new fuel tank and want to attempt to have the car move under its own power.

The previous owner "attempted" a lot of things but didn't finish most...one of them was a rebuilt pedal cluster install. I just reinstalled the pedal and attached the clutch cable. I set the clevis fork thingy all the way screwed in. With it all the way screwed in, I believe that should make the pedal closer to inline with the brake pedal. It is not, it is quite low. BUT the bigger issue is that while I can pull the pedal up (to align with the brake pedal), it does not go down. It feels like if I push it down, I am going to snap the clutch clevis fork thingy (the one in the car was snapped off on one side).

I have a few pics from under the car, they aren't great pics, not sure if it will help, but I will upload.

Thoughts on what could be wrong or where to start? Essentially I cannot push the pedal down. And, the pedal is way too low.

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Old 03-21-2018, 03:20 PM
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Old 03-21-2018, 03:22 PM
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Old 03-21-2018, 03:23 PM
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Hi ..from the pic i can see there is something no correct..either the clutch is not adjsuted right or something broke.
Get a big screwdriver a try to pull the clutch arm towards the engine.That would create a complete stretch on the cable ..
But after now closer look at it.Your clutch is a goner,there is no more any material on the clutch disc, i am afraid you have to pull the engine out and replace the clutch.
look at the pic how close is the Omega spring to the heat exchanger...

Ivan
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Last edited by proporsche; 03-21-2018 at 11:22 PM..
Old 03-21-2018, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proporsche View Post
Hi ..from the pic i can see there is something no correct..either the clutch is not adjsuted right or something broke.
Get a big screwdriver a try to pull the clutch arm towards the engine.That would create a complete stretch on the cable ..
But after now closer look at it.You clutch is a goner.there is no more any material on the clutch disc, i am afraid you have to pull the engine out and replace the clutch.
look at the pic how close is the Omega spring to the heat exchanger...

Ivan
How can you tell my clutch is shot from my pics? The pic you posted makes me think something is not hooked up correct...the omega spring on my setup looks nothing like the pic you posted...
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Old 03-21-2018, 05:55 PM
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As I watch this video, it seems as though my spring is fully pulled forward (towards the front of the car). Could this be the issue? What causes this?

https://youtu.be/bDNfTZ-Oxmc
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Old 03-21-2018, 05:59 PM
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The cable should only protrude about 6 or 7 mm inside the clevis up front, or it will bind on the lever. The clutch is considered thin when the two levers under the bell housing get close together with the adjusting bolt backed way out.
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Old 03-21-2018, 07:50 PM
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Hi..as i have mentioned and John said.If the adjusting screw is all the way out and there is no space left between the little finger and clutch arm..your clutch disc is too thin...also you can tell The 13mm nut on adjusting screw is originally in front of the clutch arm.Later as the clutch goes thinner ,it is put on the side you have it now to allow more clutch adjustments....

Ivan
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Old 03-21-2018, 11:25 PM
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if the clutch pedal is not all the way up the problem is the adjustment of the CABLE at the TRANNY

remove the cable from the arm at the tranny.
adjust the bolt so there is a 1.2mm gap between the 2 arms,
put cable back on
adjust the (14mm?) bolts on the cable so the gap is 1mm. this is where the cable attaches to the tranny

the clutch cable should move about 27mm.

basically you want the clutch cable just starting to pull the arm.
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Old 03-22-2018, 02:53 AM
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hi T77..unfortunately it looks like he has nothing to adjust ..yes it is 15 mm wrench on the nut on cable;-)

to the NUtt as i said above use large screwdriver and pull the arm back towards the engine there might?? be some adjustment left if you pull it back..

Ivan
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Something doesn’t add up. The previous owner is adamant that the rebuilt trans went in and he drove it less than 1000 miles before an oil leak caused the engine to be pulled. At that point they never got the car running again and it sat for “about a year” before I purchased it.

Why would they Install a new rebuilt trans with a wornout clutch? I guess anything is possible but sounds weird to me.

I am going to try the following:

Back the clevis fork off until the threads are barely visible inside the fork. Undo the 15mm bolt at trans. Set the gap and see what happens...

The clevis fork was snapped off...so I am thinking they adjusted it completely wrong, stomped on the clutch pedal and broke the clevis fork.

I think I am also going to disconnect the cable at the front (in the tunnel near pedals) and see if with a prybar or large screwdriver I can move anything.

It truly seems like the cable is too short to me based on the video I watched of the movement. Like as if the spring has no room to recoil.

Last edited by Porschenutt; 03-22-2018 at 05:05 AM..
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Perhaps when the trans and engine were mated, the release fork was not engaged into the throwout bearing and ended up trapped between the t/o and bellhousing.
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Old 03-22-2018, 05:36 AM
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Hi Nut..on top of the transmission is a little window-cut out piece from factory.If you gae the car in the air and use a small mirror ,you could see if the fork is inside the to bearing or not.Also
You are correct to start from the beginning. Remove the cable inspect it and assemble the clutch arm and adjust as you saw in some of the videos on on the net...
Also take a picture of the clutch arm so we can see the adjusting screw because from the pic above it is not clear how much disc is left.If there is not thread showing on the other side of the arm.That means no good clutch disc.If you are wondering how come ,why would they not change it..mechanic-people do strange things on these 911 beasts;-)

Ivan
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Old 03-22-2018, 09:03 AM
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Ok. Went outside in this crazy weather. Unhooked the clutch cable. Took some pics from under the car. Sorry, the car is on jackstands and I one handed snapped these pics.



Old 03-22-2018, 09:30 AM
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Ok. Next, I grabbed a pry bar and on my first pull/push the spring went into this position:


Old 03-22-2018, 09:32 AM
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Based on the above (and keep in mind I don't fully understand the system), it seems to me the previous owner attempted to set and connect clutch cable with the spring in the wrong position?

If you notice the distance of where the clutch fork is now (second set of pics) vs where the it was (first set of pics), it appears to have moved quite a distance. I am thinking (hoping) this is a good thing?

If I am correct about the above, then it seems I should start the clutch cable install as if I am installing a new cable? And this time, how far should I thread the clutch clevis fork thingy onto the clutch cable (in the front-by the pedal)?
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Old 03-22-2018, 09:46 AM
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perfect ,better pictures and yes you have some meat on the disc.The clutch cable i always put trough the clevis so it shows about 5-8mm. It will help you later when the cable is stretched .It will gave you more option to adjust ...on the 15mm wrench nut.....so this is a good news .They had no idea they have to pull the arm towards the engine ....

Ivan
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1985 911 with original 501 708 miles...807 421 km
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein.

Last edited by proporsche; 03-22-2018 at 09:58 AM..
Old 03-22-2018, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proporsche View Post
perfect ,better pictures and yes you have some meat on the disc.The clutch cable i always put trough the clevis so it shows about 5-8mm. It will help you later when the cable is stretched .It will gave more option to adjust ...on the 15mm wrench nut.....so this is a good new .they had no idea they have to pull the arm towards the engine ....

Ivan

Ok, so sounds like I am OK, and may not need a clutch or to drop engine correct?

So, I should attach clutch cable to clevis fork at front first or loosen 15mm nut first?

Then once front cable is connected, I set rear to 1.2mm and then use 15mm to get it to 1mm and theoretically the pedal should come up as I go from 1.2mm to 1mm?

Does this sound correct order?
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Old 03-22-2018, 09:59 AM
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I do it like this.
I actually never measure anything and did not read any books...;-) , In your case get a new clutch cable since you are so far into it.
meanwhile put your clutch arm with the Omega spring into a bucket with oil.Also clean it before.
Then get your self 2 seals one goes above the clutch arm and one above the little finger.Clean your vertical shaft.
The install the clutch cable hook it to the arm and full back.Then install the little finger,plus the clip.
Adjust your 1.5mm play then using open wrench start tu turn the 1st nut on the cable(loose the one closest the arm) once you see the Omega spring moved ,stop and secure the cable with the other nut.I did 2 different adjustments. It all depends how tall you are or clients were.For shorter person i leave the clutch release in the middle of travel .For taller person i would do as you see the Omega spring moved, loosen the cable back about one turn.This will make the clutch release closer to the floor and easier for long legs..

Ivan

Just noticed the routing of your clutch cable is probably going the wrong way around the trany. Can you take a picture and i will tell ....
it has to go above the throttle linkage
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1985 911 with original 501 708 miles...807 421 km
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein.

Last edited by proporsche; 03-22-2018 at 11:02 AM..
Old 03-22-2018, 10:58 AM
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Look at this pic, I think it is correct and going above the linkage...

Old 03-22-2018, 11:21 AM
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