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You don't need to roll the whole thing. Just the area in the middle.
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Location: Fortuna, CA. On the Lost Coast near the Emerald Triangle
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I had thought that rolling would just curve the lip upwards to be out of the way. OTOH, I pounded mine flat. I think I got carried away. I'm not sure if pounding them flat is really necessary.
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If you can roll the fender lip without damaging the paint.............., resale value probably won't be affected. Research the method and plan ahead.
Rolling the edge will create a folded edge, like a taco. Since this shape traps moisture, it will eventually cause corrosion. Plan on cleaning and filling with caulk or equiv. to avoid trapped moisture. I suggest grinding off interfering metal (w/o overheating and burning the paint). Additional clearance possible (if needed) compared to folding over the edge. Sherwood Last edited by 911pcars; 05-13-2018 at 01:52 PM.. |
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simple answer? NO.. it won't affect value. A perfect 911 with rolled fenders will ALWAYS fetch more money than a tired 911 with fenders that had never been rolled.
Point being.. rolled fenders won't make a bit of difference if you take care of everything else. The importance is making sure the fenders are rolled right. I've seen some idiots using a baseball bat to roll the fenders and it was amateur at best. Just do it right and you'll never lose any value.
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How about... Which one of two tired 911s is worth more; one with rolled fenders or one w/o? or Which one of two perfect 911s is worth more; one with rolled fenders or one w/o? The answers may or may not be the same. S |
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1987 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe |
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yes it drops in value. No doubt
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isn't adding negative camber going to cause the inside edges of your front tires to wear faster than the rest of the tire? If so, might want to leave camber alone and roll the offending fender.
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I rolled my fenders on a car and it actually increased the value... go figure
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1987 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe |
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To me, one with rolled fenders and nice paint would be more desirable as I wouldn't have to worry about catching a fender edge during compression on a tighter turn and screwing up the fender. It makes the car more robust and less liekly to slice a tire.
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Possibly, if you overfold the metal or crack the paint on a pristine car, then it could devalue it. If you use the proper fender roller, a heat gun, and make it nice transitional shape, then it will look factory and increase the car's value
![]() Make a transition from square to folded with a gradual taper. Heat and patience with the roller and heat gun. You don't need to completely fold the metal, keep a rolled edge and only fold what you need, which is between the 11:00 to 1:00 position, and likely just a 45 degree fold is all you need. This is what I needed for 225/17s Direzzas on the front: As a comparison, this is how the fenders are rolled from the factory on a GT3: |
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Sorry to hijack a bit - Steve how do you like the KW shocks?
Johan
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I think its not about wether it will affect the value ( some of these comments just make me laugh actually ) .
it will definitely affect the pool size of which you can sell too. If you are assuming you can pick who is going to buy your car and choose only the buyers you want that is insane business thinking. There are those who believe that rolling fenders take away some structural rigidity to the fender and it can cause some creasing in the panels. whether you believe it or not is irrelevant, but you will turn off people who thought Porsche new what they were doing and don't believe you new better by rolling it with a baseball bat and stuffing oversized tires in there. I believe as these cars get older the higher value will go to the original clean unmolested examples. The buyers looking for these cars are knowledgeable so don't underestimate them . When I am looing at Porsches even casually I feel under the fender, when I was looking for mine I walked away immediately when I felt a fender roll as I felt it had been molested , rightly or wrongly. . anyway just my 2c . I am sure there are those who will strongly disagree. But I do agree if you are keeping the car for you , do it for you , but if you are concerned about resale , I would think twice.
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I'll save that review for another thread, but they are very trick. True digressive valves to blow off sharp impacts, with 2 way independently adjustable 15 click compression and rebound. So you could firm up the slow speed compression and rebound settings for better response and stability while maintaining comfort on rough roads, which translates to better traction with the tire following the road irregularities better. The version I have has the 19mm raised spindles. In addition the overall shock body is about 15-20mm shorter than a standard Bilstein, so its like modifying a Bilstein with a shorter seal cap increasing travel. In addition there's another 15mm hard spacer that could be not installed, giving you a total of another 2" in travel over a standard strut before hitting the bumpstops.
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