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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,310
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Oversteer/Understeer
I've got a simple question. My SC understeers like CRAZY at autocross. The more I mash the throttle, the more it pushes. To rotate the car, I lift.
I have never done a 'Drivers Education Day.' At speed, do these cars still understeer? If so, do they rotate a little easier when you lift the throttle?
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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completely normal.
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Under the radar
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fortuna, CA. On the Lost Coast near the Emerald Triangle
Posts: 7,129
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At very fast speeds there will be more of a tendency to oversteer, unless you have a rear wing.
If you are serious about autocrossing you need to go with bigger torsion bars and if you size them correctly you will have a balanced car. 911s, and any street car for that matter, is set up from the factory to understeer. Much safer if you realize the front is loosing grip before the rear does. The older 911s had a habit of suddenly oversteering if an unsuspecting inexperienced driver made a mistake. When Porsche started putting larger tires on the rear this issue was largely resolved. There are a number of factors that can affect the ballance of a 911. But the soft springing of the stock torsion bar 911 can lead to frustrating handling. The front end will lift under power exiting a tight turn leading to a pushing situation.
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Gordon ___________________________________ '71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed #56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage |
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The car has 22/29 torsion bars and Carrera sways.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Under the radar
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fortuna, CA. On the Lost Coast near the Emerald Triangle
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Interesting. In my case I had 22/28 torsions and even though the car felt good, it would understeer coming out of thight turns.
I changed to 22/30 and no more understeer. At lest not that I could not control. In your case you should consider stiffer shocks, or better yet, externally adjustable shocks. Also adjustable sway bars. And perhaps larger rear torsions, if the rear of your car is squatting during corner exits.
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Gordon ___________________________________ '71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed #56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage Last edited by Trackrash; 05-14-2018 at 06:04 PM.. |
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Stiffen the rear swaybar to lessen understeer is how I always understood it.
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Under the radar
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fortuna, CA. On the Lost Coast near the Emerald Triangle
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^^^ True. A little goes a long way.
The first thing I would check is to see if the rear is squating during corner exit. I think that your torsions are close to what you want, however. But it's worth looking at. There are a number of other things that can affect you car' s balance. I have found that when I lowered my front end it reduced my corner exit push. Other things to consider are alignment and tire pressure. Do you use a pyrometer to check tire temps? Shoe polish can tell you a starting point for tire pressure as well. What tires are you running? What sizes?
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Gordon ___________________________________ '71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed #56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage |
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Mashing the gas is going to equal understeer in an SC in most situations. The rear engine equals massive traction. Hitting the gas plants the rear, and removes weight from the fronts. That equals understeer.
AXing a 911 quickly requires getting the car rotated early. You can then use that trait to your advantage by getting to WOT early. You can reduce your steady state (skidpad, constant velocity, light throttle) push with spring/alignment/swaybar/tire, but you're not going to have a drift machine at corner exit unless you double your horsepower, or alternately pitch the car in sideways at entry.
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Matt - 84 Carrera |
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Basically the same as my car with the same behavior. I've only done two autocrosses in my life, so I can't speak to that, but in my experience, 911s tend to understeer in slow corners and then transition to oversteer in faster turns. The objective in my case was to dial out as much understeer as I could while retaining "neutrality" in the high speed turns. I found that increasing front tire width was the key. I went from 185s, to 195s, to 225s and finally to 245s. 245s were the sweet spot.
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Mike 1976 Euro 911 3.2 w/10.3 compression & SSIs 22/29 torsions, 22/22 adjustable sways, Carrera brakes |
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Quote:
In any extreme maneuver a car is mostly on 2 wheels braking - 2 fronts acceleration - 2 rears lefty - 2 right sides righty - 2 left sides The other wheels have proportionally less influence on what happens over/under depends on speed, stock they are very conservatively setup for massive understeer, that's the safe way to be understeer increases is the same as saying oversteer decreases No matter what the base setup is as speed increases so does oversteer(another way to look at it is understeer decreases), aero is useful to counter this but at most A/X speeds aero isn't a significant factor. For track use cars are set up for low speed under which transitions to high speed neutral A/X cars are set up for low speed neutral to over which transitions to over or massive over A/X cars will want more grip in the front than a track or even street car to get more front grip, ie more over/less under wider front wheels and tires, narrower in back lower profile front tires, taller in back more t-bar and sway rate in back, less in front more aero in front, less n back more weight in back, less in front softer front shock, stiffer rear more neg camber in front, less in back higher front tire pressure, less in back(to a point) wider front track, narrower in back all of the above need to be applied carefully for a dual use car. You really don't want it to go too far.
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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I would agree with most of what's been said. To compliment the hardware and setup changes mentioned already, I'd suggest that you need to adjust your driving technique. Autocross is the perfect place to experiment. Do some reading on the traction circle and trail braking etc... you need to learn to rotate the car in a different way. I always find it helpful to get a ride with someone who can show me how it's done - I'm always surprised at how far under the limit I am relative to really fast drivers...
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Quote:
Skill and technique are hugely important
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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likes to left foot brake.
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Superman -- take a driver's ed class, it'll open your eyes to a lot of stuff (weight transfer, braking hard to set up a car for a turn, etc.). I'd strongly suggest "becoming one" with your car BEFORE throwing money into it . ..
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Quote:
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Mike 1976 Euro 911 3.2 w/10.3 compression & SSIs 22/29 torsions, 22/22 adjustable sways, Carrera brakes |
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gduke2010
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,310
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Yup, it's been corner balanced before. These cars are persnickety about that.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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just askin? no flaming
how does a guy with a basic noob 911 question have twenty thousand posts? boxster forum transfer?
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1980 911SC #99 track car, 993 3.6, 50 PMO's 2019 Ford F150 da dragger 2015 MB SL400 wifey DD 2008 E93 M3 DD 2007 E60 530 wifey winter beater |
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Join Date: Feb 2000
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No problem. I thought I knew the answer when I asked. Been a 911 owner since early 2000. This is my third SC. I bought it maybe ten years ago for $8K.
I've plenty o' seat time at AX but none at speed. I'll learn about handling at speed on public roads. This is why I ask. Perhaps I will visit a local track a time or two. I have some idea how to handle the car in AX. I want to know more about handling at speed. Make sense?
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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