Highbeams stay on...how do I fix

[R22tech]

While driving at night this weekend, I flipped on my highbeams; now they won't turn off. The stalk switch has no effect when you push or pull. You can still here the click when you push it forward to high beams, but the only lights are the highs. I can, however, turn all the lights off/on with the push/pull switch on the dash. I assume the contacts are welded closed inside the stalk switch, so maybe I can open and clean the contacts and be o.k. or do I need to get a new switch? Am I wrong in my diagnosis? I haven't started taking anything apart yet, but it looks like I can access the area by simply removing the (2) flathead screws that hold the column cover in place and work on the switch without removing the stalk switch itself. Is this correct?

[Joe Bob]

Replace the stalk....common problem on an SC....too many flashes at other P-Cars....8^)

[Argo]

I think it's a little more complicated. I tried to access my windshield wiper/washer switch by removing those 2 screws, but the clamshell was apparently still attached to the steering column by some additional fasteners. I didn't have time to explore further so I can't offer any tips on how to proceed, but if anyone knows how to remove the clamshell I sure would appreciate the advice. Is it necessary to remove the steering wheel to access these additional fasteners?

Argo
88 Targa

[Joe Bob]

Yes....you have to pull the steering wheel...if you have A/C under the dash....that has to be removed as well.

Quick band-aid approach on the high beams, pull the fuses for the high beams until the stalk/switch is fixed....there are two of them.

[This message has been edited by mikez (edited 11-05-2001).]

[wckrause]

There's a tech article on how to remove the steering wheel. It shows an older wheel, but it's the same process. The main point is to not torque against the steering wheel lock.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mult_Steering_Wheel/Mult_Steering_Wheel.htm

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Bill Krause
'79 911SC Euro
MY PELICAN GALLERY

[Superman]

That's right, don't torque against the steering wheel lock. Have a helper hold the wheel while you loosen the nut. The steering wheel has to come off, and the plastic clamshell cover.

Yes, you can repair the switch, probably. The contacts are slender strips of copper. If you have females in the house, steal one of their 'emery board' fingernail files, as long as it's brown. Do not use a black or grey abrasive. A point file might work too. Finish by rubbing with clean, unwaxed paper. I don't think you will need to replace the switch, but maybe.

What I would strongly recommend is to install a relay kit. The relay, with harness, should not cost more than $20, and you can find them for $10. This protects those wimpy switches, by moving the headlight current through the relay instead of the switch. This is even more important if you use the beefy 100w high beam bulbs.

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'83 SC

[R22tech]

You know, I think I can see the contacts through the little opening that the stalk passes through. Could I, with the right tool, go in through there and seperate the contacts? Of course, this would be temporary until I feel like removing the steering wheel again(I just installed a 930s about 6 weeks ago). BTW: it's an 85 carrera.

[Bobboloo]

You might try spraying some WD 40 into the switch. I did this on my 72 and it fixed it. I thought I was going to have to replace mine but I did this last year and it's still working fine.
Bobby

[R22tech]

Bobby, were the contacts stuck closed with only highbeams available at the time? Or did you seperate the contacts before spraying the WD in there.

[Rick Lee]

I had the same problem and when I removed the stalk, it looked fine. You'll probably need a new stalk. They go bad all the time, so you're probably just delaying the inevitable by doing a quick fix. Installing a relay is an interesting rememdy I had not thought of. When you get that switch apart, you'll realize how much power goes through such a tiny and poorly shielded switch. The easy part is R&R on the column. The hard part is reaching the wire connections under the dash. I had my girlfriend do that, as her hands are much smaller than mine.

[danielt]

I went through a similar deal on my SC. Once you find all of the fasteners for the clamshell, it is pretty easy to get to. In my case, the contact for the high beams had gotten 'lazy'. I simply bent it back a little bit to create some space between the high beam contact and the lever. Once you get the switch off the column it will make more sense. So, you may not need to buy a new switch if you're willing to invest a little time.

DT

[masraum]

A very temporary (emergency) fix so you don't blind people would be to switch the wires for the high and low beams in the fuse box.
If you have to drive somewhere and don't have time to mess with it, but it sounds as if you have some time.
Just a thought

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Steve
Rennlist Member
PCA Member
'88 targa