1st time 912 buyers advice wanted.

[Reno775]

Hello, my name is Kevin and I live in Reno NV. I currently own an 86 911 but the more time I spend in the hobby, the more I like the Porsche body style from 65ish to the early 70’s. Basically, the 912 years. I’m more than happy to read and re read buyers guides and research specific tech questions, but help with the less tangible stuff would be great. I don’t have a specific car I’m looking at right now or have any specific question to dig into, Just thought I’d introduce myself to the forum and maybe get a little momentum going on the 912 forum.

[WFBowen]

Welcome Kevin.
The early 912's (68 and back) IMO represent the true original design of the 900 series cars. As you know, by now they're aging rapidly and since their values have jumped in recent years, examples that once were considered unrestorable junkers or parts cars have made their way into the market once more. Of course rust is the main issue. I think the sweet spot in the market is honest, appropriately worn drivers - not the 98 point trailer queens or the total buckets that have had all of their best parts scavenged and replaced with an odd mixture of seats, wheels, etc.
Again, welcome & hope you have good luck in your search.
Bill

[Reno775]

Thank you Bill. If and when it happens I’ll be sure and let you all know.

[racer]

Unless you want a project, find the nicest one you can afford.

1969 is the "lwb" version. Also more likely if a Targa to have a glass rear window vs the earlier zip out rear windows.

Looking for a coupe? Targa? SWB or LWB?

[Reno775]

Not sure if this is good or bad but I’m not dead set on year or model or even color really. I guess in a perfect world I’d get a silver 68 coupe. But To your earlier point I’d take a rust free Bahama yellow targa over the silver coupe with rust and mechanical issues. I like a lot of the colors I’ve seen these cars come in but for some reason do not care for red. I am very aware that in the Porsche game a low buy in price means it’s a money pit. See lots of examples for sale in the mid 20’s that need 25k+ in work to become what you can buy ready to go for 35-40. While I want the car for me to keep and enjoy for myself so I’m not worried about resale but I don’t want a project, especially one that cost twice what I could have just bought already to drive. Rust is what I’m least capable of dealing with so I have to stear clear of that. I guess whet it boils
Down to is that I’m most interested in getting the best condition I can like you said VS looking for a particular model, year or color.

[racer]

Buy one of these things..
FS: 912 Handbook and Service Manual

to get a feel for the type of regular maintenance and extra work you might want to do. Since you are looking at a 50+ year old car, you will want/need to know how to maintain it

[cmpski]

I would also recommend taking your question to the www.912bbs.org.
You are correct that rust is the thing to look for. Many of the cars have nice paint, a nice interior and engine compartment. They are lipstick on a pig. Their bones can have serious cancer. Look in the torsion tube, rockers, heater tubes in the rockers, inside the hollow part of the front suspension pan, bottom of the doors, behind front and rear lights and turn signals, etc, etc, etc. Get a PPI from someone who specializes in the early cars. Metal and paint work can get very expensive.

[Reno775]

Originally Posted by cmpski

I would also recommend taking your question to the www.912bbs.org.
You are correct that rust is the thing to look for. Many of the cars have nice paint, a nice interior and engine compartment. They are lipstick on a pig. Their bones can have serious cancer. Look in the torsion tube, rockers, heater tubes in the rockers, inside the hollow part of the front suspension pan, bottom of the doors, behind front and rear lights and turn signals, etc, etc, etc. Get a PPI from someone who specializes in the early cars. Metal and paint work can get very expensive.

Agreed on the paint and metal being expensive especially because I’m not equipped or qualified to do either myself. Also, as I’ve been checking out the cars I have also been keeping an eye on pricing and correct me if I’m wrong but paint and metal work seems to add very little value relative to the cost of the work? Or as opposed to mechanical work? When I read the FS ads the seller is always excited to share and disclose any and all mechanical work they can dig up but not so with cosmetic work. Some go as far as to blatantly misrepresent the car as not having had any paint work which is kind of telling in itself.
The PPI is an absolute must for me just based on my experience level. I may never know enough to do my own final evaluation but I enjoy learning about the cars and certainly helps whittle down the field of candidates.

[cmpski]

Paint and PROPER metal work is very expensive. I take these cars apart send the bodies to top guys. Look up Vintage Car Works and The Metal Surgeon online. 30K plus for metal work and a like amount for paint is not uncommon and sometimes even more. How important is finding as rust free a car as possible? I found a 912 in Rolling Hills, Ca that was very clean and my friend paid 50K for it as a starting point for a 912 POLO car and the wrong color paint came off and it will be repainted in it's original Ultra Blau (Blue). Of the 4 cars I've been working on lately 2 have 2 CAM 4 POLO engines from Dean at Polo Motors and 2 have 911 engines from Henry at Supertec. I restore all the rest of the parts and rebuild the cars. I grew up close to Vasek Polak in Hermosa Beach and was taken there by my next door neighbor an old guy about 28 in his new Speedster when I was about 7. I'm 67. I've been steeped in Porsche for 60 years and still have a huge amount to learn. And I only work on 65 to 73 cars.
I might suggest Clint and Craig Smith in Morrow Bay (Rebel S Racing). I bought my car from Craig, Clint's dad and use Clint's parts for suspension work. I'm sure there are other good Longhood guys between San Fran and Reno. The Smith's might be able to point you to a few.
If you have more questions and I can be of some help my contact info is on the website below.
Good hunting.
Chris

PS- Here is a picture or 2 of my car.


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