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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Arlington Heights, IL, USA
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I expected to just slip it over my cracked 69 dash with a little glue on it and I'd be done...NOT. The instructions say a LITTLE trimming may be required at the turned up edges along the windshield. I ended up trimming the width of the Coverlay with my Dremel and around the window vents. The cover would not reach the window so a lot of the old dash had to be removed so I could move it to the windshield. Finally had to lay down strips of 1/4" x 3/4" neoprene sponge rubber along the glass to make up for the removed dash material which by the way had a skin as brittle as an egg shell.
The front wrap around cover wanted to push away from the dash so I had to come up with a maze of clamps to hold it all in place. In retrospect a new dash would have been EASIER to install but they are just too expensive. The final touch will be a bead of black RTV silicone along the glass and cover to fill in the voids. For some reason the windshield radis at the ends and the Coverlay radius are not the same, smaller radius on the ends of the Coverlay. Here are some pictures. Thanks, Ron D ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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RonD 69912T |
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Thanks for sharing. I will never, ever do that.
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abit off center
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Would it have helped if the windscreen was out? I know when I put my new dash in the screen had to come out.
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______________________ Craig G2Performance Twinplug, head work, case savers, rockers arms, etc. |
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I don't think it would have simplified the installation with the windshield removed. The problem was with the "Fit" of the Coverlay. It would have helped with the trimming of the old dash by making it easier to get at.
Afterwards I tried to caulk the air space between the windshield and the coverlay at the corners but the RTV caulk/adhesive is not an easy caulking material to use and it turned out poorly. That's when the glass removal would help, made it easier it get at the gaps. I plan to remove all the RTV caulk and figure out another way to close up the gaps. Maybe a strip of black thin neoprene would do the job. Not sure yet. Thanks, Ron D
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RonD 69912T |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
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Ron,
I had a similar experience with a coverlay dash project for an MGB some years back. That one didn't fit where the windshield joins the car either. A possible material for caulking is the rubber cement that's used for windshield installation. Sorry I can't remember the brand name or even the technical term for this stuff, but I bought it in a caulking tube at the local auto paint store. It's much firmer than RTV, and it dries to a consistency not much different from the rubber seal that surrounds your windshield. If you're interested and can't find it at an auto paint store near you, I can inquire here for a more exact name/description. Ed |
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you guys are lucky. at least you have replacement dashes, and coverlays! the 68's have a dash thats completely unique to our year (i forget exactly what the differences are). looks good though! btw, ron, are you going to tweeks this year? would love to see your targa over there!
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Harry Hoffman 68' 912 Coupe 'Fritz' burgundy red (6808) | 67' 912 Coupe 'need parts?' 912 Registry charter member #912R0195-C | Early 911S Registry member #2070 http://hoffman912.blogspot.com/ |
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Harry:
I had not thought of going to the Tweeks event but I will think about it..thanks for the heads up. Don't even know when it is! I used some sponge neoprene with adhesive backing, 1/8" x 1/2" wide and ran it around the base of the windshield to cover the air gaps. Looks strange but I will get used to it (I hope). Maybe I'll look for that rubber cement caulk Ed mentioned. One thing I can tell you is that a normal size tube of caulking placed in a cheap stamped metal ratchet gun dispenser won't reach the base of the windshield. The tube diameter is too large and/or the tip is too short. I had this problem with the tube of black RTV I bought, had to revert to applying it with a putty knife, VERY messy. Thanks, Ron D
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RonD 69912T |
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Ron,
Never thought about the problem of clearing the caulking gun. Perhaps a length of tubing pushed over the snout of the caulking tube would provide adequate clearance. Clear plastic tubing from the hardware store would enable you to see the stuff coming out and avoid nasty surprises. Ed |
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Ed:
How come I did not think of that? I was in a state of desperation, late at night, no hardware stores open, RTV tube ready to go...you know you have been there...dam the torpedoes...full speed ahead! As they say hindsight is 20/20. Next time I'll be ready! Thanks for a good idea, probably 6" of a 1/4" or 3/8" diameter vinyl tubing slipped over the caulk tip would have worked. Ron
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RonD 69912T |
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ron here is all the info for tweeks. (its free too) http://www.tweeks.com/funfest03.html
hope to see you there!
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Harry Hoffman 68' 912 Coupe 'Fritz' burgundy red (6808) | 67' 912 Coupe 'need parts?' 912 Registry charter member #912R0195-C | Early 911S Registry member #2070 http://hoffman912.blogspot.com/ |
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