912E Ignition Switch

Rich G · 06-01-2001, 08:37 AM

I am requesting advice or comments on the following problem: Subsequent to inserting the key into the ignition switch, I could not turn the switch. I turned the key 180 degrees and tried again unsuccessfully. Being very careful not to bend or break the key, I just kept "playing" with it and finally it turned and the engine started just fine. This was the first time it happened and has not happened since. It may be the start of a problem or just a fluke. Would you consider changing the switch and if so where's the best place to order one (Tweeks, Performance, Pellican)? I would assume a new switch comes with new keys as I've never had to change one before? Thanks in advance for advice and information.

Roland Kunz · 06-04-2001, 05:17 PM

Hello

Your local locksmitch has special oil to maintain the locks.

Maybe the inertas are to worn and you need a replacement. If you buy a new look at Porsche it comes with 3 keys and the other locks have to be rekeyed or start the "two key" system. You can also order a complete set.

Look if your electric switch siting behind the mechanic unit comes loose.

You can spot it from the underside and after removing the big connector you can see one screw, the other one is oppesite hidden by the housing. Just check if they are thight and the complett switch is still thight in the tin housing.

Removing the unit was descriped on the 911 board several days ago ( think 72 resto ).

Grüsse

AirJose · 06-05-2001, 09:33 PM

believe it or not use a spray of WD40 oil in the ignition switch and work the key. Take the key out and inspect it for rust/blackness. If it is black, it is full of powder graphite. remove it as much a s possible from the key (do it several times) and re-spray again until the key moves freely and only a small amount of graphite stays on the key; use some of the "graphite w/WD40" in your key to lubricate outside locks. some rust on the key means your lock is somewhat dry. Do not use any heavy oil! If the lock still does not moves freely after the WD40, you need a new lock, Good Luck.

Rich G · 06-06-2001, 08:30 AM

[Roland,
Thank you so much for the information on removal, cleaning, etc. Also note the second response regarding the use of WD40 and graphite as a lubricant. I would assume the WD40 is similar to the locksmith oil you mentioned. Again thank you and I travel to Mistelgau, Kochel Am. See., and Munich regularly on business. Will be there in Sept. for Oktoberfest. Cheers, Rich G. in Pennsylvania .. and yes there are Porsches in Pa. and just not California.]Originally posted by Roland Kunz:
Hello

Your local locksmitch has special oil to maintain the locks.

Maybe the inertas are to worn and you need a replacement. If you buy a new look at Porsche it comes with 3 keys and the other locks have to be rekeyed or start the "two key" system. You can also order a complete set.

Look if your electric switch siting behind the mechanic unit comes loose.

You can spot it from the underside and after removing the big connector you can see one screw, the other one is oppesite hidden by the housing. Just check if they are thight and the complett switch is still thight in the tin housing.

Removing the unit was descriped on the 911 board several days ago ( think 72 resto ).

Grüsse[/QUOTE]

Rich G · 06-06-2001, 08:33 AM

[AirJose,
Thank you for taking time to reply and the tip on using WD40. I keep a couple cans of that stuff in the garage at all times but never thought of using it in the ignition. It's raining here so I'll have plenty of time tonight to clean and lubricate the switch. Again, thank you. ... Rich G.]Originally posted by AirJose:
believe it or not use a spray of WD40 oil in the ignition switch and work the key. Take the key out and inspect it for rust/blackness. If it is black, it is full of powder graphite. remove it as much a s possible from the key (do it several times) and re-spray again until the key moves freely and only a small amount of graphite stays on the key; use some of the "graphite w/WD40" in your key to lubricate outside locks. some rust on the key means your lock is somewhat dry. Do not use any heavy oil! If the lock still does not moves freely after the WD40, you need a new lock, Good Luck. [/QUOTE]

Roland Kunz · 06-06-2001, 04:18 PM

Hello

No the special oil isn´t WD 40. Any oil will work there the locksmithoil is very special as it sticks to the parts an will not smell bad or leave oilprints in you pocket.

Porsche used a waxgrease as fillment in the factory very similar to vaseline. This will soak the oil and get greasy again.

The lock do wer over the time. There are very thin brass sliders in it the will get a small chamfer and will not slide as they should. All locks except the ignition lock can be dissasembled and reconditionet.
The sliderplates where very comon in many european cars up to the 80´s.

The ignition look can be reparied by an professional but normaly needs to much labour time. ( Especially if the never did it before )

Check you electric part too as this can generate much trouble.

Grüsse

AirJose · 06-08-2001, 09:15 AM

Roland, the WD40 is being used a lot by locksmiths around the U.S. as the oil of preference by locks. It is thinner than most of the other canned oils. In the U.S. several years back the locksmiths recommended graphite in powder or spray,therefore most old cars have enough graphite inside the locks to lubricate several cars and the accumulation of it forms a paste inside the lock. WD40 loosens the paste I have seen the awful gray-black paste in various locks once opened. WD40 will work as a lock lubricant. The smell is only temporary and you only spray a little. True, the locksmithoil is very special as it sticks to the parts but in the U.S. its hard to find, and not readily available.