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Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 2
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I let my '69 sit for too long and I think a caliper (driver side-front) is sticking. I have taken the tire off and attempted to remove the brake pads and can not get them to turn loose. I have tried just to the point where I thought something was going to break. Have been unable to get the pistons to move back into the caliper. Any ideas/tips? --- I've been told you are not supposed to use any lubricant (WD-40 etc...) If and when I get it apart, is it feasible to rebuild the caliper (myself, not a shop) if the piston is stuck due to corrosion or is this a "go ahead and buy a new/rebuilt unit" situation?
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I had both rear calipers on my 69 come frozen when I bought it from the PO just south of Seattle.
I figured there was probably pitting with the moisture and rain, so rather than mess with the calipers and take the risk, I decide to let a shop handle this one. I bought the repair kits, another set of calipers (from a Porsche graveyard in CA, inexpensive), and while I was at it, new brakes hoses all around, and they swapped out the old ones, replaced everything, said the master cylinder looked ok, and I was on the road again. It was an inexpensive repair on a very important system. Scott 69 912 #23078 68 912 sunroof 67 912 project all over the garage |
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Rebuild it yourself. Do both front calipers. It is not that hard. First remove the line w/ 11MM wrench. Cap the line to stop the break fluid flow. Here come the hard part; first you have to separate the caliper from the rotor (possibly stuck together); insert a screw driver to force the caliper piston somewhat in. I recommed to spray the inside of the caliper w/PB blaster or penetrating oil and tap the outside of the caliper w/a hammer several times to loosen the grip. Keep tapping, leave it overnight if necessary; spray a little, tap ...spray and tap the caliper( once in a while), it will loose. Use WD-40 or whatever to spray at the inside of the caliper(piston area), and a screwdriver or small breaker bar(once I had to use a lug nut wrench for a stubborn one). Once you get the caliper out by removing the two back 19mm bolts you are ready for a rebuilt. There is a great rebuilding calipers article here at pelican. email me for further instructions if you need it. Don't give up...it can be done...Good luck on your rebuilt
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[This message has been edited by AirJose (edited 09-03-2001).] |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Falls church Va
Posts: 725
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If you push the brake pedal in a little and hold it with a stick the fluid won’t run out of the master and reservoir. Make sure to wash the rotor well with brake klean after you get the caliper off. Do not try and disassemble the caliper halves! I found that if you unbolt the caliper from the strut you can sometimes twist the caliper some and then wiggle it off the rotor. Getting rusted pistons out can be a royal pain .It helps to soak them overnight with penatrating oil first. Do you have compressed air? If so you can hold one piston in place and blow the other one out. Be careful and keep the fingers out of the way! Clean the first one up a little and then put it back in. While holding it in blow the other one out. Then remove them both and rebuild. Flushing out your brake fluid at least yearly can help prevent a lot of brake system problems. The seals on the outside of the pistons rare easily damaged and then let water and salt in to attack the pistons. Good idea to check and replace them as needed with each pad change. If you got the $ you can install stainless pistons
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my best method for forcing the pistons out has always been using the pressure of the brake system itself...pump the brakes, they should come right out, or at least enough to gently wiggle them from there...good luck
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