Engine removal on '66 "912"

Jeff Simpson · 09-21-2005, 02:14 PM

'66 912 engine removal? On checking the valve clearance on my newly acquired 912, I found a broken valve spring. I assume that this means the head has to come off, which means the engine has to come out? Unlike my 356, the manual I have says to remove the trans and engine together. Anyone have any recommendations on easiest way to do this project, ie; 912s are best done by removing just engine or trans and engine. Help!

DarrylD · 09-21-2005, 08:44 PM

Hey Jeff!

How about that, I just pulled the engine & transaxle out of my '66 912 on Labor Day!

Everything I read in the manuals highly recommended not removing the engine by itself, like you would a VW Bug, but rather the engine/transaxle as a unit.

The engine/transaxle comes out as a unit, 4 bolts hold the whole thing in. Probably the most time consuming part was removing the CV joints.

I followed the directions in my 1969-dated Clymer manual step-by-step, so when they forgot to mention the speedometer cable, I forgot to remove it and it hung-up the drop for a few minutes.

There is a large "bung" on the front of the engine case by the flywheel that serves as a good place to center your floor jack and the whole drivetrain drops down easily and somewhat balanced at that point. Remove the 2 bolts on the bracket at the rear of the engine first, the 2 up by the front end of the transaxle last.

I think the real challenge is going to be installing it since you've got to align those 4 bolts with their holes by positioning the heavy drivetrain unit... UGH!

DarrylD · 09-21-2005, 09:03 PM

You can see the 4 mounting bolt points clearly on this side view:

Nige-912E · 06:33 AM

Although my car is the 912e I just removed the engine only, no messing with the gearbox, just suppoted the gearbox on some wooden blocks. Don't know why you would need to remove the whole lot engine and gearbox? Why make it harder?

Perhaps if you wanted to move the car whilst the engine is out you would need to support the gearbox somehow.

Only took about 1 hour

Jeff Simpson · 09-22-2005, 07:33 AM

Thanks for the replys. I see the difference in the mounting arrangement between the 356 and 912. I guess I'll get started, since I'll have to move the car, I will remove trans and engine together. Darryl, looks like you took the license plate panel off to get more clearance? Is the height in the picture about as high as you had to lift the car? About how long did the removal take? Jeff

DarrylD · 09-22-2005, 01:51 PM

Hey Jeff!

The whole removal process took less than 3 "Darryl hours" which the current exchange rate for younger guy hours is about 2 to 1.

Yes, that's the height, I actually lowered the car on the jack stands when I was ready to do the last step and drop the engine, it was easier to get at the CV joints, etc. with it higher. The rear panel comes right off on these older Porsches, just remove the bumper guards and a bolt on the bottom corner of each side.

I'm not sure comparing a VW Type-4 pancake engine with a Porsche 1600 SC engine drop is the same as far as the clutch clearance, etc.

I tend to follow the manuals a gospel, which sometimes gets me in trouble.

Nige-912E · 09-22-2005, 02:27 PM

The gearbox and flywheel along with the clutch are basically the same dimensions. Still don't understand why the manuals say to remove the gearbox as well. Replacing the engine was actually quicker than removing it, we even had two tea breaks along the way.

Looks like you would have to remove the rear part of the tinware to drop the engine alone and would probably have to lift the car higher to drag the motor out from underneath due to the upright fan housing.

Also note the use of a handy old 'body board' for engine transportation, allows more clearance than a trolley jack

Know what you mean about manuals, though I tend to view them as reference only, which also gets me into trouble

Buff Harsh · 09-26-2005, 12:48 PM

Jeff- gotta chime in here and say there is NO need to pull the trans-axle. Just unbolt it from the motor and use a jack with wheels to separate the motor from the bellhousing. Took under an hour start to finish. I think you will be glad you pulled it and checked over everything once you do. I wont even start with the list of things I did to mine..... or should I say am going to do....

DaveE · 09-27-2005, 07:46 AM

You can leave the transaxle in, but should disconnect the shift coupling, then you can just let the transaxle hang and move the car around. If you leave the shift coupling connected, the shift rod going into the transaxle will bend if you don't support it from the rear.

Jeff Simpson · 09-27-2005, 07:51 AM

Thanks for the help. Head removed, valve spring replaced, and head back on. The valve and combustion chamber showed no signs of the valve hitting the piston so the broken spring must have still been enough to prevent any additional damage. I did find that the "installed height" with the shim washers which had been used was about .020" too tight, which may have been the reason for the spring breaking?
I'll follow with a summary of the repair when I get through.

DarrylD · 09-27-2005, 12:14 PM

That's great news Jeff!

Today's event was the reason I had pulled my engine and transaxle; towing my 912 to the frame shop to have the right front corner pulled back into place.

I can't wait to see how good of job they do restoring the original gaps between the fender, hood and doors.