Engine

[Viscosity911]

How do you take the drive train out so you can take out the engine?, or do you not need to take them out? Anything can help.
-Mark

[jac912]

Welcome to the forum...Dropping the engine and related issues have been covered in detail here and in the site 912registry.org . Check the tech archives first and members will help with specific questions.

[Green 912]

I posted this some time ago, hope it helps. After you pull the motor remove it from the jack ( jack it up some and lower it onto 2 milk crates) and and use the same jack to hold the trans while you pull it. I have found that it is easer to pull them one at a time rather than together. You can do it this way by yourself with one floor jack. Welcome and good luck. Sorry for the length.

1 Disconnect the battery and only then disconnect all wiring to the motor from the body. Senders, ignition, generator and such. No need to disconnect the starter.

2 Disconnect the fuel lines at the fuel pump.

3 Remove the rear pan.

4 Disconnect the shift linkage connector that is under the cover between the rear seats. Don’t forget this part or you will really damage things later.

5 Loosen the rear wheel lugs. I like to remove the rear wheels as it makes it easer to move around under the car but it isn’t required.

6 Lift the car. To do so, jack the car up as high as you can with a floor jack using the tranny center at the differential box as a lifting point. I use a disk of plywood and a patch of old carpet in the jack cup to protect the cases. Use 2 jack stands and a 2X4 as long as the car is wide support the car by putting the 2X4 under the rear floor pan seam. (The seam, NOT the pan. The point where the rear seat pan ends) Now remove the floor jack from the transmission and jack the car higher using the center of the 2X4. You will be able to get the car nice and high this way. Raise the floor stands up to meet the 2X4 and remove the floor jack. The car is stable, high enough, you only need one jack and never had to get under the car while lifting it.

7 Remove the rear wheels. Again, this is not required.

8 Remove the sheet metal that the license plate is on. You will need to remove the rear chrome bumpers to do this.

9 Loosen the front transmission bolts. Do not remove them; just back them out 3 turns or so.

10 Disconnect all the heater stuff, hoses, control wires and anything else you see that runs from the car to the motor. Check to see if there are any mounting straps to the tail pipes ect. (Remove nothing off the transmission, as it will stay. No need to remove the CV joints or starter ether)

11 Put the floor jack under the center of the motor case and put a little upward pressure on it, then remove the rear motor mount bolts.

12 Lower the motor about 3 inches. (You remembered to disconnect the transmission didn’t you?)

13 Remove the front most piece of motor tin. This is the one that sticks up over the top of the transmission. It is held in place with 4 cheese heads.

14 Get a flat cargo strap that is about 1 inch wide, run it under the transmission right behind the bell housing. Tie it off on the top of the rear strut towers inside the motor compartment and cinch it up tight. This will support the transmission after you remove the motor.

15 Lower the motor until SOME of the weight is off the jack. The strap will stretch some thus giving you some more room to work with. Now slide under the car and remove the 2 lower motor/trans nuts. Then remove the 2 bolts on top. One is a allen headed starter-mounting bolt as well.

16 Jack the motor up or down until the motor isn’t lifting the trans and the trans isn’t lifting the motor.

16 Now you can pull the motor gently off the trans and lower it to the floor and then roll it right out the back. Use the tail pipes as handles. Bolt on the motor stand bracket and only now do you need to get a friend to help you lift the bugger into the stand.


One jack, one person and the second time you do it you can do it in about 40 min less. You can remove and install a transmission single-handed as well.

[Viscosity911]

That helps me a lot thanks! but... i mean how do you disconnect the rear drive train out of the socket, we undid all of the visable screws and we can push and pull it in and out, but we cant take it out. is there any other screws that we need to take out and what size and kins is it? and most important, do you even have to detach the drive train?
thanks again,
Mark

[josh912]

It should come out. Make sure you aren't hitting anything and are pulling straight backward. If the shaft was scuffed, possibly due to a previous gland nut failure or such, it will be very tough to seperate. Just keep trying, it will eventually have to give in, I hope.

[silver912e]

Your situation reminded me of a story at Harry Pellow's website:

http://www.hcpresearch.com/she_a.html