Full Flow oil filtering?

[C. Clark]

Hello,
With all the talk recently about oil temps I've become aware of an add on for cooling motor oil, "Full Flow oil filtering" thus hopfully lengthening the life of a air cooled engine. Can any of you suggest a source for detailed directions, drawings or instructions on how this system is installed on a 912 engine? I am a visual type so a schematic / drawing would be ideal. I have done a search here but muddling through all the info I'm still not clear.
Thank you,
Chas. 69/912

[Green 912]

There are a couple of ways the cool/full filter a 912 motor. All methods have good and bad points but adding full flow filtering is one of the best things you can do to keep a 912 motor going!

Duane Spencer has a book out that details what and how. “Porsche 356 Performance Guide,” published by RPM auto books. Blocks books has it for $25. The book is aimed at the 356 gang but covers the 912 motor very well. He has finished a companion book just for 912s but it is not out yet.

The best method requires the removal and modification of the third piece and modification of the oil pump cover. Other methods are easer to do but have some inherent problems. Most folks do this addition during a rebuild but it is not too hard to do it as an add on. You will have to pull the motor but the 3rd piece comes off easily without much disturbance to the rest of the motor.

If you plan to add cooling a Mocal 13 row cooler is more than enough. I like to put it in the front fender and feed air to it from the horn and fog light openings. I use dash 10 for the lines and Aeroquip fittings only! Always use a thermostat with a cooler.

There are lots of aftermarket oil filter setups that work well. I like the Cannon Meca canister type. You can inspect the filter and see what it trapped when you change it and it will not rupture from over pressure during a cold morning start up. It is available as a spin on so you just install a filter mount in the left rear fender. The filter is easy to get to and no oil all over the motor compartment during a filter change. This method also keeps the motor looking stock from above.
Again if you add a filter and cooler I recommend that you add a thermostat as well. It too is installed in the left fender right next to the filter. If you don’t add the cooler you can go with just the filter but the Cannon Meca canister is strongly recommended!

I have some images from a shoot for the 912 books that I will post.

[C. Clark]

Green,
Thanks again for great information, over on Bay912 I was told that kits are available for the 912 engine, do you have any idea what the set up would cost? I do all labor myself so that is not an issue, just parts. If you have any photo's / or drawing you could post that would be very helpful.
With all the talk lately about temp concerns I think it would be a good investment, where I live we have 100 degree summers so I can use the help , of course in the winter it's cool.
Duane Spencer's new book is do out any day I hear. Since fall is here I think I'll do this project over the winter.
Thanks again,
Chas. 69/912

[mcruickshank]

Chas,

Great question. I have my engine out right now and have been wrestling over whether or not go full flow.

I do remember Chickybok having pictures of his new/rebuilt engine with a full flow setup. I did a search and found his pictures under the "stage one complete!" thread.

Chickybok, How is you setup working out? How is it plumbed?

Thanks,

Mark

[Green 912]

I have to Tech a PCA club Race this weekend but I will post some shots of an entire setup from cooler to motor on Monday.

Seeya....

[C. Clark]

Green,
Thanks for the reply, I ordered Duane Spencers book and I'm looking forward to your info next week.
Have fun over the weekend, we're off to see the SF Giants on Sat. Maybe the playoffs are in their future....
Thanks,
Chas.

[chickybok]

hi guys

Ive been meaning to take some images of the full flow system in my car. but ive been out running it in for the past couple of weeks. i'm upto 300 miles. Every fifty or so miles ... you can feel the car get stronger and stronger.
As soon as i get home i'll take some better pictures.

You guys are not going to belive where i'm right now. I'm in a hotel SAN FRAN. What a great city you guys live in/around. I'm here for 5 days. Then back to New York.

Having great time... butmissing my 912 back in london.

[Green 912]

The first image is an upshot showing the general layout of the equipment.

The 2nd is the oil filter and thermostat mounted in the left rear fender. This location has some good points to it. You can get to the filter easily and unlike methods that put the filter in the motor compartment you don’t get oil all over the place when you change the filter. Another point is that the filter gives off lots of heat and the less in the motor compartment the better.

The 3rd image shows the cooler mounted in the left front fender. There is a strong mesh grill cover that has been removed for the photo. I had to move the battery to the right side for this setup but I also used a larger than needed cooler. The Mocal 13 row fits without battery removal. I boxed in the cooler so all the air that is driven in from the horn grill and the fog light hole has to go through the cooler. I had to make a removable cover plate so I can sometimes block the fog light hole, as this setup will overcool on all but the hottest track days unless I restrict the airflow. (The filter and external oil lines help cool the oil some as well. Even if you only add the filter you will see some additional cooling as well)

The 4th is an upshot of the air intake and the box work in the fender.

The 5th is just a side view if the air dam and the intake scoop for the fog light hole. (I put this one in just because I like the looks of it)

The 6th is the oil sender block with a bypass set up. When you dump the stock oil filter you cannot just plug the lines or you will not get true temp readings. The pressure readings will still be good but without some oil flow thought the sender block the temp readings will be just the block temp and not the oil temps. To make the bypass take one of the old filter lines and bend it around and connect it to the fitting where to other oil line was. You will also need to remove the banjo bolt, weld over the little hole and then drill a tiny hole as a new flow port. This will flow some oil through the sender block. Less oil through the sender block the more through the motor. The stock hole is too big!

The last one shows the connections made at the motor. One (oil out from motor) comes from a (as pictured) new, or redrilled oil pump cover and the second (oil back in) is connected to a port made by drilling out a galley plug and tapping a threaded hole for the AN fitting You also have to install plug the oil return galley in the 3rd piece. All this is necessitates removal and partial disassembly of the motor. I also use high temp covering to protect the Dash 10 near the motor.

Sorry, but I loaded the images out of a normal order and don’t have time to repost. Much of the boxing and air ducting is not needed for any but the hottest motors. (Which mine isn’t) With a stock or street prepared motor a flat sheet of aluminum in the fender will work well. Remember to protect the cooler! One little hole and you are on the side of the road. You can unhook the oil lines between the thermostat and filter, loop one back to the filter thus skipping the thermostat and cooler to get home.

Hope this helps.

Kurt

[C. Clark]

Kurt,
Thank you for the great pictures of how the system pieces together, for me a visual reference is nessecary. I'm still toying with just full flowing the oil filter without the addition of the a new cooler, I want to read Spencers book which should be here soon. There's a company in CA. that sells a kit for the full flow as well as the cooler, Classic & Speed Parts (626) 445-0108 9-5 PST Mon-Fri, there's been alot of info generated on Bay912 covering this subject also. I'll let you know how it works out for me.
Thanks again,
Chas. 69/912