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009-to-050; Points-to-Pertronics

Here's my "si-chee-a-shun":

I purchased a used (very-good-condition) 050 from my pals at Total Performance of Tampa, Florida (insert free plug here). My '73 2.0L was purchased with dual 44 Webers (save the flames) and 009 + points, to which I converted to Pertronics pointless (no problems encountered here; had to file and fiddle a tad, though).

I've read the pros & cons, plus & minuses, and decided to go with a 050 for the added curve. Of course there were a few differences; different cap & rotor, and the mounting plate for the points/pointless seemed "off-kilter". I installed the Pertronics, even though it seemed to sit too advanced/retarded as compared to the 009. I had to machine the lower ridge on the rotor a tad, because it touched the somewhat tall sensor.

I dropped it in, rotated the little devil for ballpark static to #1, and THEN no start. Yeah, yeah, I checked for spark off the coil wire and after bouncing off the engine lid 2-3 times, I determined the pointless was working. Tried rotating the distributor and listen for the mule to kick, but nada.

Is the #1 offset a lot on these distributors, or am I not setting it right/hunting for timing properly. I dropped the 009 + pointless back into my Iron Mistress and it fired right up and through the garage door (Note To Self: Check for Neutral before Starting).

Should I swap the mounting plate off of the 009 into the 050?
Is the Pertronics compatible with the 050 (I was told it was)?
Am I presetting the timing right, or is my dyslexia kicking in?
Would it be easier to drop in a 3.6L Turbo and cool the oil with ice cubes?
Will there be a Rocky VI?

Any ideas/comments/curiosities?
Old 09-21-1999, 04:34 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #1 (permalink)
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1. It may have been "used" for a reason, instead of still being "in-use".

2. The dizzy is a tricky little bugger. Sometimes they seem to be in when it fact they are not ingaged with the drive shaft properly. I drop it in and then try to turn the rotor by hand (not too hard, the advance plate will move) to make sure it is engaged properly.

3. Try setting the "static" timing with a test light (hmmmmm, I guess you can do it with a pointless system, the coil still gets a signal, right?).

The Haynes manual explains it pretty well. Something like bringing #1 to TDC (I use the mark on the flywheel, it is ALLWAYS TDC, some fans have a mark at 0, some at 5, and others at 7.5) and feeling the compression coming out of the sparkplug hole. Then hooking up the test light. Look for the signal as you turn the dizzy....yada-yada. If you don't have the Haynes I can look it up, too busy right now.

4. Look that the braided wire on the advance plate is intact, but since you are geting a spark (or a "jolt" the way you descibe it) the wire is probably O.K.

5. Not sure what you mean by "off kilter" The advance plate is held to the dizzy by two screws that also hold the cap hardware on. Maybe someone was fooling around with the weights (people take one spring out, or use lighter springs to quicken the advance curve) and put it back together wrong.
Old 09-21-1999, 11:07 PM
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In response:

1. The distributor came out of a VW sand rail; the owner upgraded to a magneto system.
2. It was setup properly when I installed it; dropped right in with no grief.
3. Ditto
4. Same-same.
5. There's no "advance plate"; the points plate that holds the sensor is fixed to the housing (a la 009), as this is a non-vacuum advance distributor. Visually, it's practically a knock-off of the 009, it's just that the mounting plate looks "off-center" by what I can only guess is the additional 10-15 degrees of advance available in the 050.

I'll just have to try again, maybe I didn't take into account the additional advance and I'll just have to index #1 cylinder again. Heck, worse comes to worse it'll just backfire and explode the exhaust system, finally giving me the excuse I need to install the Bursh sideblower header/exhaust I have sitting up on the shelf.
Old 09-23-1999, 04:39 AM
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Figured out what the problem was. When using a 050 distributor (and respective cap & rotor), you have to index #1 cylinder one spot clockwise on the cap from "normal" #1, unless you can get the distributor cap clips to snap with the bulky combo oil pressure sensor in the way in my 2.0L.

I swapped the Pertronics from my 009, compensated the ignition wires as mentioned above, got a good eye-balled ballpark static on the timing, jumped in and BARK!, right to life. Had my trusty induction timing light handy, set the timing 1 fan blade to the right of the brick, romped the throttle ("Whoa! Look at that advance twist to forever!), and spun the steering wheel.

Yes, oh hell yes; much, MUCH smoother power delivery. No more, "HERE'S ALL 12 ADVANCE AT ONCE, DUDE; I'M GOING FOR A BURGER". You lose a tad of instantaneous advance low on the revs, but the rest is pure bliss. A worthwhile upgrade/improvement.
Old 09-24-1999, 07:35 PM
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