Tie-Rod Question

[Dave Bell]

This Forum has saved me some mistakes already. My Turbo Tie-Rod kit came with lots of other parts that I had ordered. If not for the posts here, I would not have known that the "washers" that came in a plastic bag with other parts were meant to be spacers for the tie-rod connection to the steering rack.

On one side of the car I have the old tie-rod off including the eye-bolt.

Given that there are no other instructions with the kit. Are there any other pearls of wisdom or items I may miss in my present un-informed state?

Should I be doing anything with the steering rack while I am digging around down there?

Any gotchas installing either end of the tie rod back on?

Pardon my ignorance, I'm just trying to make sure I don't miss anything.

- Dave

[Joe Bob]

When I did mine, I bit the bullet and had the shop that does my alignments do it. They also did a "free" alignment with the installation....

[rich]

If you lowered the ride hieght you my want to get a bump steer kit for the rack mounts.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

I hear that it is a pain to get to some of the nuts that you have to fasten. One local guy went so far as to grind down a "disposable" open-end wrench in order to get to them.

Sorry my memory of that isn't better...

--DD

[Bobbitt]

As Dave said, tightening the ball joint to the rack is a pain. I had a cresent wrench that would fit - my Craftsman wrench would not. If the rack is out of the car, I would inspect the rubber coupling for cracks. It is the piece that connects the pinion shaft to the steering rack. Other than that, just add the bump steer kit if the car is lowered and get it aligned.

Bobbitt

[djs]

About the wrench, there is a special wrench that makes the job easier. One end has a hook spanner, used to unlock the locknut on the stock inner tie rod ends from the rack. The tie rod end then unscrews from the rack normally.

The other end of the wrench is a thin open-ended design that fits exactly the squared end on the Turbo Tie Rod spherical joint. This makes tightening that part into the rack easier. Although the wrench is not cheap (about $25), it beats trying to improvise, and I agree that this job IS difficult without the right tools. I just did it myself a few months ago.

I purchased my wrench at Automotion (desperate because car was torn apart, I live near them and I needed it quickly) but Pelican may carry or can get one.

[Dave Bell]

Thanks all... I don't know why, but I did not have too much trouble taking off the first tie-rod. I clamped on to that locking nut/bellows holder with a channel lock and it came off with only minor difficulty. I have not taken off the other side yet, or put a new one on yet because I was putting in a new master cylinder and rebuilding the calipers. I'll see what happens on the other side later....

One more stupid question... I assume that the the old locking nut can be tossed and is replaced solely by the washer/spacer that came with the turbo-tie rod kit.. right?

Another comment/question. The connecting rod that comes out of the steering rack is not completely round, the the bushing it rides on is round, thus leaving a gap through which crud could get into the rack.... which I suppose is the most important reason for the boots.... seems like there ought to be a better design.

- Dave