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Question about fitting larger oil pump to 1975 914-2.0
Hi All,
In process of rebuilding a 1975 2.0L type IV engine. I have purchased a 30 mm oil pump that fits a type I beetle engine and am considering putting it into my 1975 914-2.0L rebuild in place of the OEM oil pump. Would that be an upgrade or a mistake? Also I have misplaced my Haynes manual and would like to get the head bolt torque order diagram (23-ft-lbs) to assemble the heads on my rebuild. Please point me to a diagram or post it here? Thanks in advance, Tom |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Middletown, CT
Posts: 279
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I don't know that oil pressure has ever been indicated as a problem in a properly-built, not-worn-out Type 4 engine.
The only systemic problem one tends to encounter in the /4 914 is oil pickup starvation in long extended corners, but no size of oil pump gears can resolve that. Further, if not needed then increasing gear size won't get you anything, as your pressure bypass valve will simply dump it back into the sump. You may also want this: Pressure Relief Valve |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 893
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On all of my 914’s that I have owned (5) I have always installed the Empi and or the CB performance oil pumps, they are not too expensive. One trick I have not tried but read about was cutting some slots in the windage tray. This apparently allows oil to more quickly return to the pump, but as you know the purpose of the windage tray as I understand it is to allow oil to remain above for lubrication. I don’t know about type 1 pumps and if they are usable on the 914’s. As far as head bolt torque order that is, you have 8 bolts. The four inner ones are numbered below 1 and 3. Above are 2 and 4. Then the outside 4 are 6 and 8 above and 5 and 7 below. So #1 inner below, then go #2 diagonal above. Then #3 inner below then #4 inner diagonal above. Then go #5 outside below cross over to #6 outside above right. Then #7 outside below then #8 outside above. I can send you a pic although it might be this evening if you need it. Getting back to type 1 oil pumps I think you are referring to the 30mm oil pumps which are more than adequate for high performance applications. Those used to be sold through Gene Berg. If it will fit, USE it, they are apparently good for up to all out race engines that can turn 10,000 rpm. On the head torque, start out with 7ft-lbs, then 14 ft-lbs then finally 23 Ft-lbs
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 893
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PS....The windage tray allow oil to stay above longer under hard Corning. Forgot to mention that.
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Thanks all for the replies. I believe the larger pump was used to increase flow so oil temperature will remain lower.
![]() ![]() I've enclosed photos of OEM pump on left and Schader aftermarket on right. It appears the Schader pump is missing the front coverplate? |
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I have also found a Haynes Manual for the 1600 Beetle engine head bolt troque order diagram
![]() Assume in this case the order is the same for both Type I and IV heads. So I will torque to 7 ft-lbs according to A and then go to 22 ft-lbs according to B then do B again at 23 ft-lbs. |
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The stock oil pump is fine unless you have modifications that require more flow. That usually means an external oil cooler.
Note that increasing the oil pump size may result in more oil bypassing the on-engine cooler; the cooler is protected by an over-pressure valve (as is the filter) and if the pump is putting out too much pressure you can wind up bypassing the cooler and/or the filter. I don't know exactly what pressure would do that, or what the odds of it happening at all are, but it is one more thing to worry about... --DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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ken burge
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Lake Havasu Az.
Posts: 10
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The off road guys louver the windage tray and weld horizontal ears on the pump pick-up. I did this to my 912E and it stopped the pressure loss on long high G turns.
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 893
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Yes, use choice B, that is what’s illustrated in my 914 technical manual
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 893
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If you need just the cover Scat and or Empi sell it separately
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Just getting back to working on the rebuild project during the Covid-19 shutdown. Are there 16 thick washers that goes between the head nuts and the case when torquing down the heads? it's been at least 12 years that I had disassembled the motor!
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I just found the bag of nuts and washers so there are 16 per side. By the way what is the torque value for the case half bolts/nuts? is it 23 ft-lbs as well?
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Administrator
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According to the manual, those are 14 lb-ft.
--DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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Thank you very much Dave.
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Puny Bird
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Port Hope (near Toronto) On, Canada
Posts: 4,566
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For stock and performance you want the 26mm pump. For 30mm you should run a pressure relief pump cover as it's too much pressure cold. I'd only use the 30mm with an external thermostat and cooler.
I only use steel pump covers, aluminum covers are junk. It's a good mod. BTW the T1 has a two step head pattern, the first pattern is compressing the pushrod tubes. For the T4 only you use just the 2nd pattern, once at 7 lbs and then again to 24lbs.
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'74 Porsche 914, 3.0/6 '72 Porsche 914, 1.7, wife's summer DD '67 Bug, 2600cc T4,'67 Bus, 2.0 T1 Not putting miles on your car is like not having sex with your girlfriend, so she'll be more desirable to her next boyfriend. Last edited by Mark Henry; 02-12-2021 at 05:10 AM.. |
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