Metal repairs

[930cabman]

I recently started a 914 "rust repair" project. Going after some of the simple shapes first and will get into the fun (structural) stuff later.

Question: does an exploded diagram (with steel gauges) exist of the sheet steel for our 914 cars. I have begun cutting out small sections and have found at least two different gauges, .043 and .038

[tonythetarga]

I’m near Rochester and doing a similar project. I’ve been using Restoration Design parts but where I’ve had to make a few pieces I’ve used 16 gauge metal.
I’ll pm you my number if you want to talk. Might be able to help you with some tips.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The exploded diagrams that I have seen are the line-drawings from the factory catalog. You can go to Porsche's web site, into the "classic" section, and hunt for the parts catalog. No metal gauges are specified, though. I kind of doubt they will be very useful for seeing what metal went into making up the body of the car.

If you can get ahold of the factory manual, there is a two-page image with the larger sub-assemblies that could be ordered and replaced back in the day. Check pages 20.1 - 1/3 and 20.1 - 1/5; later pages in the same section show where the factory thought the body should be cut to do repairs. These are all in the "Group 8, body" volume of the manual.

You may be able to find PDF files of the manual if you search around on line. But I'm sure I could not advocate that, especially anywhere a certain company's attorneys might be watching...

RD sells good parts, you can do far worse than just sourcing the panels from them. Note that most places that sell 914 body parts any more are selling RD parts.

I have heard that the original parts are in the 18-20 gauge range of thickness. Going a bit thicker will only add a little weight, and should make whatever it is you are replacing stronger than original.

--DD

[johnsonj]

I'm into this now, full long. inner wheelhouse, floors, bits of the firewall, etc...

I have most of the old cut out now, let me know if you need any pics of a specific area.

And I'm always interested in how other people are handling the repairs also.

[930cabman]

Tony, Johnson, we are travelling down the same road, somewhat rocky at the moment. I feel fortunate as I have completed these repairs many years ago with very primitive methods. These days my work space is large enough, has lights, heat, scissors lift and 50 years of tool accumulation. Also there are a few $$$ behind the project and that portion never hurts. I have started "practicing" with removing small panels and will work into stabilizing the tub and installing new inner/outer rockers from RD in Canada. I have spoken with them a few times and they have been very helpful. I am hoping to have this baby on the road next summer. Pics to follow, please post pics of your projects.
thanks,

[930cabman]

Originally Posted by Dave at Pelican Parts

The exploded diagrams that I have seen are the line-drawings from the factory catalog. You can go to Porsche's web site, into the "classic" section, and hunt for the parts catalog. No metal gauges are specified, though. I kind of doubt they will be very useful for seeing what metal went into making up the body of the car.

If you can get ahold of the factory manual, there is a two-page image with the larger sub-assemblies that could be ordered and replaced back in the day. Check pages 20.1 - 1/3 and 20.1 - 1/5; later pages in the same section show where the factory thought the body should be cut to do repairs. These are all in the "Group 8, body" volume of the manual.

You may be able to find PDF files of the manual if you search around on line. But I'm sure I could not advocate that, especially anywhere a certain company's attorneys might be watching...

RD sells good parts, you can do far worse than just sourcing the panels from them. Note that most places that sell 914 body parts any more are selling RD parts.

I have heard that the original parts are in the 18-20 gauge range of thickness. Going a bit thicker will only add a little weight, and should make whatever it is you are replacing stronger than original.

--DD

Dave,
Thanks for the info, I recently found a factory manual and will review the body section for original details.

[930cabman]

Snuck a few hours away from the
office

[tonythetarga]

WOW! That's a much bigger job than mine! Good for you taking that on. I've added some of my project. You can see the rest if you stop by this weekend.

[johnsonj]

This is terrific - nice to see this thread.

I'll post some pics of my project tonight.

[johnsonj]

All replacement parts are from Restoration Design.

[mepstein]

I would think you are going to have to put that on a jig or celette table at some point. Door bars can only do so much.

[930cabman]

Originally Posted by johnsonj

All replacement parts are from Restoration Design.

Great project, but involved yes. Our project is similar, but have not removed as much rusted material. My thought is to get the longs in where they go and make the connections at the front and rear checking alignment as you go. I am thinking the floor panels offer little structurally (other than some diaphragm strength) but mostly go along for the ride. Mr Johnson, how far are you from Cleveland? I offer an invitation to my shop in Buffalo to trade stories if so inclined.

[johnsonj]

mepstein, a jig would have been a great thing, I didn't know how much rust was underneath when started. I've done some tests with scissor jacks placed at various locations for support and leveling, so far it seems that it will work once I can add some structure back to the side.


930cabman...about 4 hours from Cleveland.

[930cabman]

Originally Posted by johnsonj

mepstein, a jig would have been a great thing, I didn't know how much rust was underneath when started. I've done some tests with scissor jacks placed at various locations for support and leveling, so far it seems that it will work once I can add some structure back to the side.


930cabman...about 4 hours from Cleveland.

Thanks, that would make it about 7 hours one way from Buffalo.

Our 914 does not appear as bad as your car. From what I can see it's all about the geometry of the chassis. The suspension points must be aligned with each other during the rebuilding phase or the finish product will go sideways down the road, if it goes down the road at all. Having the door openings aligned MAY be only a portion of the rebuilding process. Currently I am removing the rusted and prior "repairs" stuff out of the way to install new proper metal in the correct orientation. I will be posting as I go.

[930cabman]

Good progress today, I went with an alternate method of bracing the rusted hulk. The deteriorated inner long came out, but not easily.

[930cabman]

Found some original floor within the mess and still opening the can of worms

[tonythetarga]

Hi John,
Looks like you had a busy weekend! Feels good to make progress but you also realize how much more there is to do. Slow and steady!!

[johnsonj]

930cabman: Yes, Mine is a little more troublesome since the inner wheelhouse had deteriorated.

The suspension ear and console are okay though so I won't need to remove them.

A lot of measurements and adjustments will be needed, having a good tram gauge is helpful.

I've collected several different body dimension measurements from publications and other builds which I'll use.

[Jim2]

I'm getting scared seeing these pictures. I bought a *good looking* roller thinking I'd quickly swap my 6 parts over from a crappy race chassis but once I pulled the rockers off the new roller I discovered the joy of owning a 914 from the rust belt.

[930cabman]

@Jim2, I am curious as to the number of rust free 914's in the world, my bet is single digit. Problem is: the rust hides in concealed places and grows. I have been a VW/Porsche backyard wrench for 50 years and done rust outs years ago and swore off them.

These days I am into a project car for fun.