Valve Adjustment Went Wrong

[9magazine]

We were working on our 1971 1.7 all day today photographing a DIY valve adjustment article for an upcoming issue. We should have known is was going to be one of those days...

First, our Mac Tools ratchet came apart while removing the heat exchangers, good thing it has a lifetime guarantee.

Next everything was going well until it was time to adjust #4, the intake valve wouldn't move... then #3 exhaust valve wouldn't move. We left them be and decided to fire the car up...

No go, the engine would turn over but would not catch and run. A hissing noise can now be heard while trying to start the engine.

Any ideas on the stuck valves and the engine not running?

Brian Minson
9 Magazine
http://www.9magazine.com

[jamcleod]

removing the heat exchangers? (for the valve adjust?)

engine run before the valve adjust?

do you mean the adjust screw wouldn't move or the valve is stuck closed?

[HMeeder]

I assume the heat exchangers were pulled for photographic access (the only reason I could come up with.)

If it is the valve adjustment screws that are the culprit (and for your sake, I hope that's the case) it is very easy to pull the rocker assemblies for the side (my $.02 is to pull both sides.) With the rockers out of the car, it's a lot easier to get PB Blaster and heat on those valve screws. After getting the offending rocker off, put a big a$$ screwdriver into a vise, take the locking nut off, and with heat, soaking in penetrating lubricant and the extra torque afforded by having the rocker in your hand and leaning into the screwdriver, you should be able to get that bad boy(s) loose. Once you get those two valve adjustment screws free, place them loosely in your right hand, shake your hand just a touch to get a feel for their mass, then with a smooth, arcing motion, pitch them into the nearest trash can. Call your good friends here at PP and have them send you an entire set of new screws and locking nuts. At $1.60 each and $.80 for the screws, it's not worth holding on to any of them. You can then stick them back on the car (along with the push rod tube bales) and pretend that nothing went wrong with the adjustment. Or much better yet, you should share with your readers your problems and what you did to solve them. This happens to many, many of us (ask me how I know!)

With a bit of planning (order your parts in the morning when the guys are there and you will probably have them the next day) this should only add about 2 hours to the project (cross your fingers!)

Good luck!

[red-beard]

[QUOTEOnce you get those two valve adjustment screws free, place them loosely in your right hand, shake your hand just a touch to get a feel for their mass, then with a smooth, arcing motion, pitch them into the nearest trash can. [/QUOTE]

LMAO!

Good one Herb!

James

BTW - Where you you for the Baja run?

[Bruce Allert]

Originally posted by HMeeder

put a big a$$ screwdriver into a vise, take the locking nut off, and with heat, soaking in penetrating lubricant and the extra torque afforded by having the rocker in your hand and leaning into the screwdriver, you should be able to get that bad boy(s) loose.

With this movement comes the wearing of a chainmail breast plate... otherwise, it's score one for the Highlander!
Naw... just joking, alot of leverage can be had with that method. I've used it plenty of times on other things.
I thought the same thing when I read about taking off the exchangers but for a good photo article it would be necessary. I adjusted my vales just this weekend and found #4 intake & exhaust hard to move. One of the nuts needed a new socket on it to be broken loose. Kinda scared me
I'm also amazed at the necessity of keeping them valves in proper adjustment. I went for an hour drive at speeds of 70+ and at the end of the drive going up a hill I was losing power. #4 exhaust valve was too tight and the intake was too loose. After adjustment my power was back to normal!
bruce

[9magazine]

Sorry for the delay in getting back with everyone, I have been working on the next issue of the magazine which features a full spread on Porsche Racing from Grand Am to PCA Club Racing, plus how to get involved in the sport for a beginner.

Yes the heat exchangers where removed to allow us to photograph the project easier, and the situation with the adjustment screw is this; it will move and unscrew, however, there isn't any room for the .006 feeler gauge to be inserted. Even after the screw is backed out 1/4" still no movement in the gap.

The engine is scheduled to be pulled in late August for a rebuild, we might just wait to replace these rocker parts then.


Brian Minson
9 Magazine
http://www.9magazine.com

[John Rogers]

Sounds like something is very wrong here if you can back out the adjustment screw but can not get the feeler gauge in there????? When you back out the screw does the rocker have lots of free play? If not then the engine is not in the right position to adjust that cylinder or maybe you have hydraulics? I know what the articles sez about turning the engine, but I have found it much easier with a remote starter switch and watching the intake valve open/close while bumping the engine and that gives me TDC. Good luck.

[sammyg2]

Either that or you have stretched (or broken) valve stems, not good.
Prolly not the case but possible with the description.
I think John nailed it though, his explaination seems more likely.

[Zeke]

Or the valve seat is going away.