Can It Be Done ?

cary · 10-28-2002, 03:15 PM

I'm doing the center tunnel fuel line replacement project.
Using 3/8 & 5/16 brake lines. They are in. Waiting for the 3/8 rubber sleeve from Porsche.
But I want to go to AN 4 & 6 SS hose from there. But I need one elbow that is 3/8 inverted flare female to AN 6 male. And the other, 5/16 female inverted flare to AN 4 male.

CAN IT BE DONE ????

Zeke · 10-28-2002, 05:12 PM

I haven't seen the fiittings you want *on the shelf,* but I think if you will consider another adaptor in there, it will work. Did you check this?:
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3929&prmenbr=361

DSPTurtle · 10-28-2002, 07:12 PM

Ha Ha Ha!!! I fought with all kinds of hardware stores trying to locate that fitting. I swear that it does not exist anywhere on this planet (now someone will tell us how easy it is to get and how cheap). I ended up talking to one of the guys at the speedshop and he told me that a quality clamp around the SS braided fuel hose would hold the 4-5psi with no problem (I am carbed so the FI story might be different). I also tried to keep the flare to slide the hose over but that only works on the little line (return for FI, just blocked off if you carb). I check my connection everytime I change the oil or any other time I am under the car...so far so good (knock on wood). Luckily it is right at the firewall and not above an exhaust pipe or something like that. I look forward to someone giving the right advice on this one!!!
JB

JWest · 05:29 AM

Few options here.

First and best, is to buy tube nuts and sleeves for -6 (6/16" = 3/8") and -5 (5/16") and take them to someone to have the 37 degree flare put on. If you were close to me I'd do it for you. Since you want -4 on the return, you would have to get a -4 to -5 union which is no big deal.

The next best would be to buy steel -6 and -4 male AN fittings and weld them to the end of the hard tubing. Along teh same lines, get the fittings (unions or pipe adapters or whatever) you want in steel (IFF and AN) and have them cut up and welded together to make your own adapter.

Next, Earls makes some fittings for this that I believe are compression fittings on one end and AN hose ends on the other. I've never used one so I can't say how good they are. See the second from the last on this link. They have -6 to 3/8" and -6 to 5/16", so you would have to adapt -6 to -4 AN on one of them.
http://www.pitstopusa.com/EARAUTOFIT.asp

Another is the option that Milt said - adapt the inverted flare you have to pipe and use a pipe to AN adapter. Getting a little clunky there.

Putting the braided hose right on the steel tube is not my preference, but it will work on the 3/8" to -6. It will not work well on the -4 hose because it is designed for 1/4" (4/16) tube, not 5/16". You may be able to stretch to fit, and be sure to use a bead on the tubing if you do this.

I think this is actually the fitting you want for the -6 line, but it is not made in a smaller size for the return.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/product.asp?strBase%5FList=&hilt=&source=2192&base%5Fno=6174033&str%5Fbase%5Fno=0000%2DCATALOG%2C4722300%2C4722312 %2C4722318%2C4722345%2C4722390%2C6174020%2C6174021 %2C6174023%2C6174033%2C6177000%2C6177003%2C&header%5Ftitle=Street+Rod+Products%2DCarb+%26+Fuel +Pump&page%5Fname=prod%5Flist%5Fdisplay%2Easp&search%5Ftype=L2%7E460&search%5Foption=&deptsearch=&dept%5Fid=L2%7E460&dept%5Fid%5Fp=&dept%5Fname=&dept%5Fname%5Fp=Street+Rod+Products&size1=&size2=&gender=&ShowImages=yes&sq=0&cont=1&intPgNo=1&mscssid=9V9N2XXBB7E99NJ99UQDJMGPNV8M3J86

cary · 10-29-2002, 06:35 AM

James, I'm not in a big hurry. I could send them to you to have them done RIGHT. Most on the hose shops here are logging and heavy equipment. Not a real clue on the auto stuff.

E-Mail with a cost.

Next question. How would I go about mating the SS to the rubber on the engine ? The O.E., the plastic slides inside the rubber.

JWest · 10-29-2002, 08:06 AM

You would have to send me the hard line - if you don't mind shipping I don't mind doing it (no charge) but I will have to make sure I did not lend my tools to my dad (I'll get them back but I'm not sure how long it would take). You would need one of each -5 and -6 tube nut and -5 and -6 tube sleeve to be pu in the hard line before flaring. The -5 stuff is hard to find in automotive circles, but it does exist!

You say you need elbows. You can do this with the unoins or the hose ends. Where are you converting from hard line to SS hose? At the rear firewall?

At what point do you want to transition to the engine? Let me make sure I am following you. You want to go from SS braided hose to factory hose at the location of the plastic to factory hose joint in the engine compartment. In this case I would put a standard female AN fitting on the hose. Then a AN flare to pipe adapter and finally a brass female pipe to hose nipple (hardware store). The factory hose would push on this.

cary · 09:08 AM

>You say you need elbows. You can do this with the unoins or the hose ends. Where are you converting from hard line to SS hose? At the rear firewall?

Yes, at the firewall. What ever will give me least amount of connections. The tighter to the firewall the better.

>At what point do you want to transition to the engine? Let me make sure I am following you. You want to go from SS braided hose to factory hose at the location of the plastic to factory hose joint in the engine compartment.

Yes, factory location by the battery. Just to make it simple when I drop the engine. I'm open to suggestions.

If it's ok. Lets do two. One for my 73 and another for my 74 project car. Which I'll be starting when I finish my shop.

Just looking here in my office. I have two boxes that will work.

JWest · 10-29-2002, 09:42 AM

I'll look around and see if I can locate a supplier for the -5 parts.

Tonight I'll look into my tool location at the moment. I'll let you know - what is your time line?

cary · 08-01-2003, 04:49 PM

I'm back to my 914 project. I'm plumbed thru the firewall out to 6 & 4AN.
I have a couple adapters. But its OK.

But now the hard question ? How can you continue with SS here ? The filter needs rubber on both side to get a good tight fit.
Then the same issue with the fuel rail and the fuel pressure regulator.

You can't squish the SS lines with hose clamps and get a good tight fit.
That liner is made to squished.

Something about a HOT engine and gas leaks.

How can it be done ?

kellzey · 06:01 PM

Piece of cake.

Like it was stated above... borrow or rent a 37 degree flaring tool and get the -6 an nut and sleeve. This will allow you to mate the 3/8 line to a -6an connection.

Pictured below (in the bright flash) is the nut and sleeve.

The tubing isn't flared yet. You have to install the nut and sleeve BEFORE you flare it.

Then you can mate it to a -6AN connection (like in this -6AN to 3/8 NPT 90 elbow).

You should be able to do something simlar with the 5/16 line, but like said above you may need a -5An to -4AN adapter. I don't really see these in any of the catalogs... hmmm

kellzey · 08-01-2003, 06:00 PM

the 5/16" line may be a little challenging as I don't really see -5AN fttings in Jeggs or Summit Racing. The probably exist, but it may require some searching

cary · 08-01-2003, 06:28 PM

Got you on the tube nut. I should have done this at the firewall. Just putting in a 90 degree elbow.

But it still doesn't help me with the fuel filter ( factory plastic ). One could probably use a Tube nut on the fuel rail, but there isn't enough length to do it on the FP regulator.

kellzey · 08-01-2003, 06:56 PM

Fuel Filter - you can get a fuel filter that will plug into the -6an fittings.

This is what I am doing.

3/8 SS fuel line in center tunnel
3/8 to -6AN fittings on each end of fuel line

Weld on -6AN adapter to fuel tank hard lines

Then I will connect everything (fuel tank to filter to fuel pump to center tunnel line with -6AN SS hose.

On the engine side, the carbs have fuel bars with -6AN fittings.

So no rubber lines will be needed at all!