Questions for you fine folks.

[Ferrell]

I have a list of questions I've been dwelling on that perhaps you knowledgable types could help me out on. The car is a 74 2.0 with injection.

1. How much clutch free play should I be feeling at the pedal?

2. I had my MPS rebuilt by AA (I now know better and hang my head in shame). Problem is it appears that they restamped it with what appears to be a 1.7 part #. Does this ring a bell and if it was rebuilt with 1.7 specs what would be some problems?

3. I will be puting rebuilt front calipers on my rear while they are being rebuilt is this a direct bolt on process or will I need to shim it?

4. Will a 1.8 AAR work on my 2.0 or are they different creatures and the two should not meet? I can purchase a new one thru my work and rebuild my old one for spare.

5. I do not have a decel valve, do I need one? From what I have read they do not have a vital role in engine performance merely lean out the car on decel for emissions, is this correct?

6. I have a stripped bolt on my temp sensor plate (on bottem for oil temp reading) does anyone know what size this bolt is, and has anyone used Permatex epoxy thread repair? It has a very high temp rateing or is Heli-coil the way to go?

Thats just some of the questions I have, any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated. It is soley because of this site I have a car that gets me to and fro. Thanks Thanks Thanks

[bowlsby]

Here is a little help...welcome to the board:

The 1.8L: AAR can be made to work with mods. The 1.8 AAR has 2 poles...your existing D-Jet AAR only has one, connect the lead on your harness to one pole, and ground the other. Fgure out how to mount it too.

The 1.7 MPS may work at idle but I would be afraid it would be too lean in the business range...It can be characterized and realigned though.

You dont need the decel valve unless you are in a smog testing area and it is a requirement to pass inspection.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

As I recall, the only real difference between the 1.7 and 2.0 MPSes was at full throttle. The 2.0 was (I think) slightly richer. See http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders for tons of into on your D-jet EFI.

Clutch pedal free-play is in the "pull the pedal upward" direction, or at least includes any play in that direction. This is due to the "helper spring" on the clutch pedal.

Not sure about how the front calipers get put on the rear. You will lose your parking brake, which I think is not a good idea and which will cause you to fail safety inspection in those areas which have such.

The Decel Valve is a "nice to have" thing but is not completely necessary. 914s up through at least mid-71 did not have them.

If your stripped bolt is one of the ones that holds the "taco plate" (the two-bolt sump plate) on, heli-coil the hole. Just be very very careful to keep all the debris and chips out of the engine when you do this.

--DD

[Ferrell]

Thanks for your replies. I think I will buy the 1.8 AAR and keep my old one for spare. Cheers

[Bleyseng]

I agree with Jeff B. as there are calibration differences between the 1.7 and 2.0l MPS's. The 1.7 MPS's partload and Full throttle settings are Leaner than the 2.0l MPS's.
I have tried a 049 1.7L MPS on my car and sure it runs but the oil temp shot up and I could tell it was running lean.
So find the right MPS for your car or have Jeff B check it out.
I might have a few 2.0L MPS's availble soon.

Geoff