brake light switch

[Enrique]

Where is the brake light switch on these cars? I've got no juice at the wires going into the tailight housing. Is there a separate fuse for brake lights (I've got no fuse cover)? Thanks.

[JP Noonan]

If "no juice" means there is no +12V to any of the wires then It is a major fault, like a fuse is corroded or blown, or a switch is bad. If you mean that none of the lights light (but you haven't actualy checked the wires with a test light or meter) then it could be the common ground they all share under the relay board in the engine bay.

If only the brake lights don't work and they worked recently, assume nothing.

1. check the bulb filiment, then check the blub housing for corrosion.

2. if there is no +12V then look at the fuses, if they look OK spin them in the holder to see if there is corrosion at the contact point.

3. Check the wires and the stop switch. Remove the pedal cluster floor board. The switch is attached to the cluster with two screws. Mine didn't work at first because the wires were butt spiced by a DPO and corrosion had built up.

[Enrique]

Indeed in brake light switch was out of adjustment. Thank you.

Some basics:

1) Can push-rod seals be replaced without dropping the heat exchangers?

2) When removing a valve-cover, do you pull the bale off from the side (out of the hole), or is sliding it down better?

Thanks again.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

1) Yes. Access is a bit tighter with the exchangers on, but it is still doable.

2) I personally pull the end of the wire out of the hole. I know others that pull the wire downward. Either way seems to work reasonably.

--DD

[JP Noonan]

1. Yes, DD is right about the heat exchangers. I've found just about everything having to do with the '75-'76 heat exchanger set-up to be more difficult than the 70-74(but possible).

A tip about RTV, don't use it! The bore the O-rings go into must be absolutly clean so that the o-rings can seal as the motor expands and contracts. Some have used an air-craft type of sealer, the only place I know of that has it is FATS performance, but I've had no leaks using no sealer. For the valve cover gaskets I use a spray copper coat sold under different names (Permatex makes one). Spray both sides of the gasket, and again make sure the sealing surface of the head and the inside of the valve cover are spotless (careful when cleaning the head that you don't gouge the surface).

Pay the extra couple of bucks and get the "Vitron" pushrod O-rings, OEM if nothing else, but WHATEVER YOU DO, STAY AWAY FROM ANYTHING MADE IN BRAZIL. I've had more problems with Brazilian rubber and oil seals. Unless they have changed in the last five years, don't waste your time or money on them. If you already got them use the o-rings on the garden hose. No, nevermind, they'll probably leak there too.

2. I do the same thing, although I've heard two other ways. One is to make a small crow-bar or use a small nail remover type of crow-bar. The second is to use a towel, wrap the towel through the bail wire and pull down. Again the '75-'76 is more of a pain than the 70-74.

[PeteD]

Regarding the push rod o-rings, don't use any kind of gasket sealer, but also, don't put them in dry. Put some oil, or better yet, some silicon o-ring lube on them so they slide into place and seal well. Use the vitrons.

Also consider dropping the engine and doing a nice clean job replacing all the known leaky seals at once. It only takes me about 90 minutes to get my engine out (75 1.8) and if
you are not familiar with all the parts of the head like the spring wire, you will have a hell of a time trying to replace the push rod tube seals with the engine in the car. With it out, you can see what you are doing, don't have to be a contortionist, and can go ahead and have a good look at everything else that might need a bit of work while it is out. Have fun.