Weber cam with stock gear..Torque?

[415pb]

Does anyone know what the specified torque is for the bolts to attach the cam gear to the Weber cam. I purchased the stock Weber and drilled my cam gear. I just can't figure out what the torque should be or should I just tighten the bolts down?

Thanks,
Rod

[415pb]

OK, I contacted Weber and they said 14 ft/lbs. But, can you guys take a look at the pics below. Do you think I will have a problem with the cam gear bolts clearing everything? I used the washers and loctite they provided, but now I'm wondering if I should have left the washers out. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rod

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Mock it up and see. Put your cam into one case half with cam bearings installed. Fit the oil pump. See if the bolts clear.

--DD

[seventythree]

If you used the bolts provided by Webcam, you should be OK even with the lock washers installed. Nevertheless, always do a mock-up just to be safe.

[woodman]

What oil pump are you using? If you go with the T1 Shadek (sp) you'll most likely need to take some meat off of the pump gear drive. real easy to do, I used a bastard file with the pump gear in a vise. Pretty low tech, but still had the minimum recommended meat on the drive gear. (forgot what that is at the moment)

[415pb]

Mock it up.....Why didn't I think of that. I am using a 2.0 type 4 pump..........Thanks guys.....I'll give it a try......

Rod

[415pb]

OK, just tried the mock up and the webcam bolts hit against the oil pump.........Should I leave out the washers? I think it my clear without the washers....

Rod

[415pb]

I left the washers off and it clears, just barely. DD should I just leave them off and loctite the bolts in?

Thanks,
Rod

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

I know that some people take a grinder to the bolt-heads to make a little bit more clearance. I'd be a bit nervous about leaving the washers out--they help distribute the load better from the bolt. Does anyone remember if the holes in the Web-Cam gears are countersunk or not?

I think you'll probably want to ask someone with more experience on this than I.

--DD

[woodman]

The WEB cam I got was not countersunk. Just take a bit off the pump drive tang. That's just what you gotta do. Remember, everything is going to heat up and expand and the clearance that you have there between the two sets of bolts will decrease causing more interferance.

http://home.att.net/~airdoc/T1oilpumpmod.html

[woodman]

http://www.914club.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=3879&hl=oil,and,pump&


Maybe this will help. It's really not a big deal to do the mod.

[SteveStromberg]

WEB CAM gears are Not 0 gears even though they are marked 0 , I only use Scat gear as they are a True 0 gear. Steve

[woodman]

Steve: what does "True 0 gear" mean? I'm unfarmiliar with those descriptions.

You prefer Scat to Web...is it for that reason alone?

[415pb]

I decided to keep the lock washers, but I grinded the bolts down to clear the oil pump. I hope it works. My stock gear is a -3. Woodman I appreciate the help. I decided that I didn't want to chance screwing up my oil pump (I'm new to this mechanic thing ) I have a type 4 pump and didnt really know if the mod would have been the same.

Rod

[415pb]

and my oil pump:

[woodman]

Are you doing a straight stock rebuild? Just wondering why you'd use the stock pump. New T1's are under 40 bucks and will push more oil.

[415pb]

Woodman, I am doing a stock rebuild. My cam was toast so I bought the stock grind weber. My oil pump was fine upon removal so I just decided to keep it. What are the advantages of the T1 and should I get one. I'm new to this and am open to any suggestions.

Thanks

[skline]

I just installed a straight cut cam gear on a brand new cam with a high volume oil pump. I have to grind down the pump a little to get the clearance I needed for the bolts. The place where you grind off is very thick at least on mine it was. So I was not worried about taking too much as there is nothing behind it that will cause a problem.