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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: California
Posts: 76
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Oil gallery plugs
I've developed a flywheel seal leak or an oil gallery plug leak and I need to drop the engine asap to determine which.
I've searched the old posts for information and found a lot of information about drilling and tapping the oil galleries for plugs. It seems there is a great contamination danger wrt metal filings when you aren't planning to split the case. I have two questions for the experts: - if a plug has blown, what techniques were used to ensure that metal filings don't get stuck in the oil galleries? Is it not worth the risk to repair the leak this way? My engine is low mileage and it would be a pity to have to split the case so soon. - if a plug hasn't blown, what sealant exactly needs to be used on the plugs in order to secure them better? I read several references to epoxy, freeze plug sealant and loctite freeze plugger but no loctite part numbers. |
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Member w/ Title Problems
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Bristol, VA
Posts: 975
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As much as it hurts to hear, you really need to split the case if you're going to drill and tap. Engines aren't designed to have metal free-floating in them, and that's exactly what you're going to have if you drill and tap with case assembled.
To seal it, the only thing I can think of that would last would be some JB Weld. Clean, sand, apply, and pray to the JB gods that it holds till you're in the mood for a teardown. Good luck, let us know what you do.
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Jason Porter - 888-280-7799 ext 233 - jason@pelicanparts.com 1989 Chevy Silverado 3500 - 454TBI, 4x4, 8 gallons/mile |
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Administrator
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You can tap the holes without splitting the case, but there is going to be some risk of metal getting into the oil passages. This can lead to Very Bad Things... You can reduce your risk in a number of ways, but there will still be some risk.
You can JB Weld over the holes, or find your FLAPS and start looking through all their Loctite stuff (and similar chemicals) for a freeze plug sealant. I don't know the product number offhand. --DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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Registered
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also consider just dropping the tranny to get to the leaks. tranny only is a bit easier.
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73 914 restoration project 73 914 2.0 CIS #80 74 914 1.8L L-jet 83 911SC |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Silicon Valley, California, USA
Posts: 97
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I had one of my galley plugs blow out. I removed the tranny and cleaned the area well with brake clean and then epoxied the plug back in. Reinstalled the tranny. Its been running with no leaks since (2+ years).
Rob
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Rob ------ '90 964 Cabrio - daily driver 220K miles |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,955
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If it is in the galley area behind the flywheel, you DON'T need to drop the engine. Just drop the trans and remove the flywheel and you will have plenty of access.
I also think you don't need to split the case. Using a combination of stuffing the hole with a piece of cloth and greasing the area up, it is very easy to catch all the metal shavings if you want to drill and tap. I did that on my 914 years ago, and never had a problem. |
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Member w/ Title Problems
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Bristol, VA
Posts: 975
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Sorry, but I just don't think that's a good idea. There may be a possibility, but the only safe way is splitting before you drill and tap. For now, Just use the JB Weld method. IMHO
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Jason Porter - 888-280-7799 ext 233 - jason@pelicanparts.com 1989 Chevy Silverado 3500 - 454TBI, 4x4, 8 gallons/mile |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Grove City, OH
Posts: 1,397
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Tis the season. I have a leak, same problem, and there is a nother current post going on with the same prognosis.
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AKA: Dr Evil on the 914World forum, need your tranny rebuilt, or want a "How to rebuild your transmission DVD" set? PM me. -74 914 with 74 2.7 CIS -74 VW Bus with modified 3.1 corvair engine and 3.0 CIS fuel injection system. -74 BMW R90 |
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