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Shift boot at trans
I am looking for a clamp for the shift boot on the side of the trans. Tweeks ( sorry guys) used to carry them. Any ideas on what might work??? size??? I was thinking maybe a cv boot clamp?? Any suggestions.
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Just buy a clothes dryer hose clamp, the kind you tighten with a screwdriver.
Makes it a whole lot easier to remove. http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate...WavingFlag.gif |
A couple of long tie wraps connected togethe also works.
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I bought a new one several years ago from Automotion (now Performance), but would now try PP first since they support this board.
Would several large standard hose clamps, linked together to form one long enough, work? Mike |
1 or 2 large clamps from local hardware store, might even be stainless, at the right price. i think the factory clamp was not reusable as it was tightened with a band not a screw/worm gear band (if that makes sense!)
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Yes, that makes sense--but I do think it could be tightened. Just not by me... ;) The tie-wraps are not strong enough, BTDT! You can get them close, but they still won't hold the boot on. Try hose clamps (link a couple of large ones together), or do the tie-wrap thing and then run a couple more tie-wraps around the boot from top to bottom. It's ugly, but it works...
--DD |
Harbor Freight sells a couple of different sized hose clamp kits that come with the band material and several fittings so you can make clamps of any length you wish. Very handy
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Sorry Dave, but I've been running 2 tie wraps and it does work.
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Hmm. Didn't work for me. They were loose enough that the boot would slip off the console. When I tried to tighten them, they broke. Perhaps with stronger tie-wraps?
Aaah, whatever. I've got something that works. :D --DD |
How exactly do you GET the boot on, Im having a lot of trouble fitting it over the lip on the firewall, and I dont want to rip the boot.
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My firewall boot just slipped on and I held it inplace with tie-wraps.
I think the dryer hose clamps is the best suggestion so far. I plan to use those now that someone mentioned them. I have also found that on old CV boot can be used to replace the rubber portion of the firewall boot that is NLA. |
Jarrad use Hot Soapy water and a paint brush. Just lather up the water and brush it on, the boot should slip on. Steve
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Yeah!!! Get creative!! I used Permatex UltraBlue. Once it drys - F the clamp. And UltraBlue remains plyable, easier to deal with when you need to replace the freakin nylon shift bushings & dust & grit proof.
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Duct Tape Rules, I got the blue to match my eyes.
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Stoddard has them.
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My local Home Despot has huge "hose clamps", ie 7"+ diameter in their HVAC isle, that should do the trick, if you're into metal.
I use one "industrial strength" tie-wrap (the things are about 3/8" wide, 2 to 3' long, again from HD) for my tranny linkage cover. The trick is to hand tighten the thing, then grab the loose end with a pair of pliers right where it comes out of the clasp thingy and twist about 1/8 turn, repeat until the clasp doesn't click any more. The pliers head acts as a fulcrum and tightens the tie wrap one click at a time. Great for trussing up "detained" terrorists as well... |
That is basically what I did, but I used 3 tie wraps connected together.
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Same here. Two zip ties I had lying around. Used vice grips to get them really tight. Works fine.
And the original metal clamps are reusable if you are careful. |
The original clamps can be reused a few times until metal fatigue sets in and the band breaks.
The OE metal clamp reminds me of the old style can opening device that used to be used on canned meat like spam and corned beef. There was a key attached to one end of the can that you pried up and snapped off. You then slipped the key over the end of the pre-scored band around the can and by turning the key you wound away the band of metal opening the can. Lots of sharp edges resulted, probably too dangerous in todays litigious market! :D Mike |
Nothing tastes better than the food that sticks to the lid.
I cut my tongue a couple times as a kid. :) M |
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