No Spark!!!

[ConnieE]

I've got a 71 914-4, picked up from a friend that had it in a barn for over 20yrs, all original. It was running when stored/parked.

Having trouble getting spark, coil plugs and wires replaced, grounds checked (I think I got them all, checked the wiring diagrams). I'm new to the foreign car repair, used to old American vehicles, also have a 51 Ford (yes...a Ford...*LOL*).

I have power to the coil, and thought I checked everything, but still no spark. Any suggestions would be appreciated....and remember, I'm really new to this type of vehicle..*S*

Thanks alot!!! *BG*

[7391417]

If it has not run for 20 some odd years, I would replace the cap and rotor and the spark plugs too. Also replace the points with a pointless system (I have the compufire it works great - cost about $60.00) replacing the points with this will eliminate a lot of problems.

Just what was off the top of my head, I am sure others will chime in with more thoughts.

-Brent

[ConnieE]

Thanks for the response....I've already replaced the cap, rotor and plugs. Was hoping that was the prob. too. *S* Haven't thought of changing over to a "pointless" system..what would the advantages of that be, and would that cause me to have no spark at the coil?

All the help I can get would be greatly appreciated...none of my friends around here can figure out the prob either! *L*

[John Rogers]

Check to see what the point gap is. The points have to open to generate a spark and if it is too much or too little, no spark. When you said no spark, was this with one of the plugs pulled and connected to it's plug wire or is the engine just not firing? If there is no spark with the plug pulled and grounded, I would start with the plug and test the resistance of each item going back to the coil i.e. plug, then plug wires, distrib cap, rotor, points, condenser, hot wire from coil to distrib cap and coil. Even if new the part could be bad? If you have spark at the plug, try a shot of instant start to help it fire the first time. Good luck.

[JP Noonan]

Most people (me included) find out that the car is fuel injected and automatically blame it and forget to start with the basics. The engine is an electric FI but still has standard points and condensor, for $5-10 change both. Set point dwell with a feeler to get close enough to start, then check static timing by having #1 on DTC and turning the dizzy until the points are just ABOUT to start opening. Then turn it to 5 degrees and the points should now just be opening. A test light can help, or do is visually (Note: I have been up for a few days now and don't have my books in front of me, best bet is to look at the Haynes manual). That done, check for spark at the coil. Dwell and timing are now close, use a dwell meter and timing light to get them right on. I've had my car sit for 2-3 months and the points go bad (Miami, go figure, it's humid) so 20 years...

Which reminds me, I've started a few cars after long storage, if you would like to stay alive there are a few key points.

1. CHANGE EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THE FUEL HOSES, YES EVEN THE ONES THAT LOOK O.K. sitting in a pool of gas isn't fun BTDT.

2. Spray some lube into the spark plug holes.

3. I remove the lifters and use engine lube on them, while there I change the O-rings, then a valve adjust. It lets me see what condition the cam/lifters are in, and the O-rings are ussaly bad after sitting for so long.

4. Plugs foul really quick sometimes. If the car won't start after 10-15 tries, pull the plugs and see if they are fouled.

5. Either drain the tank and clean it (you need to pull it out anyway to get to the fuel hoses under the tank) or at least use gas from a jerry gas.

6. Once things start and are warmed up (2-5 minules of smiling to ones self) change all the fluids and filters. Use regular oil, synthetics are great, but remove wax buildup which is most likely the only thing keeping the engine oil tight, also the synthetics have smaller molecules that leak easier.


Look up on the archives about "starting a 914 after long storage" (smething to that effect) about a year back. Also look on the 914 club forum. I think it was a year or two back we were talking abou this subject.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

You can also "simulate" the points opening and closing by hooking an extra wire to the (-) terminal of the coil, and then touching it to ground and pulling it away.

If you have the center coil wire taped about 1/8" away from a good ground (not close to where you're waving that wire around, please!) and the key turned to "on", you should see a spark if the coil is good.

John Muir's "Idiot Book" is a good source for some of these basic procedures.

--DD

[ConnieE]

Thanks guys!!! I've got the next couple days off....gonna give your suggestions a shot. *BG* Everybody cross your fingers.....*VBG* (and maybe even your toes...*L*)

I'll let you know if I get spark......

By the way....anyone know of any meets/shows up here in the MI area this summer???