Wiring Diagram Help

[nuts4nine14s]

After about an hour I figured out what my 4 mysterious wires go to. This also leads me to a question about the wiring diagram.

I need to know what goes where on the coil.

From the wiring manual

4 - on coil, high tension output and on distributor high tension lead

15 - on coil, input from ignition switch.

My question is what goes on the negative and what goes on the positive?

Right now I have a lead from the dizzy to the negative on the coil.

I have a black wire and a black/red wire. Which goes where? Black on - and black/red on + ?

Also, I identified the heater blower wires and they are not plugged into anything since I don't have the heater blower. Will the car run properly without the heater blower hooked up?


Thank you


Luke

[lapuwali]

The power for the coil from the ignition switch goes to the + side of the coil. The points are connected to the - side of the coil. The tach is also connected to the - side of the coil.

Really, the coil doesn't have a + and a - side, the labels are just there for convenience. As long as +12 goes to one post and the points to the other, the car will run. The tach has to go to the same post as the points.

The car will run fine w/o the heater blower hooked up. You should probably tape up the ends of the unconnected wires, as at least one of them will be +12, which may short to something if it's just dangling loose.

[nuts4nine14s]

Thank you so much , that is exactly what i needed.

Luke

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The coil does need to be hooked up correctly... If you hook it up "backwards", the car will run very poorly. Not sure why--possibly the different number of windings in the primary versus the secondary?

The black wire is likely black/purple; the purple seems to fade easily. Check back further and look carefully. That is the tach signal wire, it gets hooked to (-). The black/red (if it is black/red!!) would get hooked to (+), and it carries the +12V to power the coil. It should be fatter than the tach wire. Tape both of them up so they don't touch ground (or each other!!) and use a voltmeter to verify which one gets +12V when the key is on. That's the one that goes to (+).

--DD