vacuum hose question

[Dave Thompson]

This question is related to Dave Darling's hose diagram on PP website:
The throttle body on my 74 2.0 has only a single vacuum fitting, near the throttle lever where the cable attaches. My distributor has a vacuum advance fitting and a retard fitting. I would like to know which fitting, advance or retard, is meant to be used on this model setup. The FI is D-Jetronic with the vertical throttle body. My throttle switch is fubar and thus disconnected.
Another question is if my car takes consitently 10 tries to start cold before it gets fuel enough to fire, can this mean the cold start injector has failed? Once started, it seems to run fine.
Thanks for your quick responses, as I am planning to reassemble and reinstall my motor and trans in the next week, adn want to reconnect all hoses properly.
Dave Thompson

[John Rogers]

If there is a single vacuum connection on the throttle body it should be hooked to the RETARD side of the distributor (closest to the cap) since it's function is to pull the advance down when coming off high RPMs. The disconnected throttle switch should only cause a flatting of the accelaration when pressing the gas, which will be overcomed in a short period and you'll accelarate as normal. As for other components, refer to the Troubleshooting FI Article here on the PP site to see how to check each FI part and for a good explanation of how they affect the starting and running of the car. Good luck.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The throttle switch also affects the mixture at idle. It richens it up a bit, in general, and makes the FI "pay attention" to the knob on the ECU. This could have some effect on the cold starting problem.

To test the cold start valve, you'll need to remove it from the manifold (two screws on a 2.0) and stick it in a jar. Unplug the wire from the thermo-time swtich (to the right-front of the manifold, on a bracket on the manifold's "feet") and ground that wire. Then have someone crank the starter motor while you watch the jar. Fuel should squirt out as long as the starter motor is cranking.

Before you check that, you should check the TTS. Unplug it and check the resistance between the lug on the one end of the TTS and ground. If it's above 50F (I think the number was), it should show no connection. If it's below that, it should show a dead short.

The CSV only squirts when BOTH conditions are true--when it is below 50F AND when the starter motor is cranking.

--DD

[Jim Smolka]

I had a similar problem with starting my 2.0 FI 914.

Everything componet tested fine, so I used Pelican's FI brain tester, turned out the ECU was bad. I replaced the brain...

Now without the cold start valve coming on, it starts on the first try.

Another item, I would check is that you have good fuel pressure when you are starting your car.

IMHO

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Smoke Daddy