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What carbs to use

I am looking to change may "75" 2.0l from fi to carbs. Which set will work best and is easyest to install?
Thanks
Mark

Old 04-14-2004, 08:32 AM
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Weber 44IDF worked well with my 2056. I had the largest venturi's you could put in them. 40IDF's will also work, all of them need re-jetting and tweaking. Some don't like carbs and will poo poo the change, but I liked the difference they made.

Randy
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Old 04-14-2004, 08:39 AM
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dellotros are equally good, if not better according to most... but I've seen fewer and fewer of the rebuild kits available... that's something to consider...
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Old 04-14-2004, 08:43 AM
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What price are the weber 44idf around?
Old 04-14-2004, 08:45 AM
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Large carbs and large venturis are fine for a race car, but not the hot ticket for a daily driver.

If your 2.0 is stock or nearly so, then 40IDFs with 28mm venturis will be quite adequate. Smaller venturis make it easier to jet the carb for good drivability. You can potentially lose a small amount of power off the very top, but this is unlikely to be noticed except on a dyno.

You'll need a different fuel pump (the FI pump will generate too much volume for the carbs and will overwhelm the floats), or you need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a gauge that allows you to keep fuel pressure below 4psi. You'll need to look into whether you want to keep a vacuum advanced distributor (not all Webers have vacuum fittings).

The easiest route is to buy a complete kit from one vendor, rather than assembling parts from various places. Aircooled.net sells their carbs pre-jetted for our engines, minimizing the amount of re-jetting you'd have to do to get it spot-on.

Finally, you have to look after breather fittings. Some, but not all, air cleaner housings have provisions for fitting breathers. If the housing you want doesn't have these, you can add them, or buy a dedicated breather catch tank.
Old 04-14-2004, 08:51 AM
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Why? with FI your car will run better and stronger with FI than with carbs unless you change the cam to a carb cam.

Geoff
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Old 04-14-2004, 09:30 AM
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Geoff
Want to clean up the engine area and heard that the carbs are easeier to adjust if needed.
Mark
Old 04-14-2004, 09:34 AM
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I'm going to have to agree with Geoff. If your FI works well, why change it. Carbs do look cooler, I agree, but from a performance stand point, unless you change the cam, you will get no benefit, and from what I have heard, you could loose power fuel economy. I think the money would be better spent on fixing up the FI. It's pretty easy to understand once you figure it all out. If you are planning on increasing displacement, then the stock FI won't work well, but if the engine is stock, stay with the FI. Just my thoughts on the subject, though.
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Old 04-14-2004, 09:44 AM
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is ther a nicer air cleaner system for the FI
Mark
Old 04-14-2004, 10:05 AM
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I'll agree with the others here. I have carbs on my engine because it came to me that way. If your FI works, stick with it.

Carbs are not the best thing for a daily driver. Fuel mileage will drop some (carbs generally always run richer for good drivability), and cold starts (and I don't mean sub-zero stuff, just engine below 70dF cold) are harder and require you to keep the idle going with your foot until the engine warms up, as there are no choke or fast-idle circuits on the Webers or the Dellortos sold for the T4.

If I had a working D-Jet system, I'd be using it instead. I will almost certainly switch to a custom EFI system at some point. The carbs are only there to have a working car in the interim.
Old 04-14-2004, 10:32 AM
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THANKS ALL
Old 04-14-2004, 11:54 AM
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Stock engine = FI all-the-way, ESPECIALLY if it's working just fine. Any FI problem can be dealt with.

Unless you're planning to punch the engine out to 2.2L+, carbs shouldn't be considered, especially if you just want to "clean up the engine area." Some engine cleaner and rags can do that.



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Old 04-14-2004, 11:58 AM
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yes, I stay with carbs because that's what I have... I may go megasquirt or something later, but if I had the stock FI, I'd be using it...
on a stock engine anyway!
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Old 04-14-2004, 12:02 PM
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There are a couple of slick ways to handle the air cleaner on a 2.0 w/FI. On mine, the original filter box got a rust hole through it, so I junked it. I'm using a filter box from a Ford Crown Vic, circa '91, I think. I mounted it forward of and next to the relay board and used some 3" and 2" PVC to plumb it. Others have done much cooler things.
Karl
Old 04-14-2004, 12:34 PM
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Karl
what did you do about the vacume tubing.
Mark
Old 04-14-2004, 12:50 PM
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Cool

I drilled and tapped a fitting into the PVC just above the throttle for the crankcase ventilation.
Vacuum retard comes from the throttle body.
I did away with that doohickey that helps on closed throttle coasting. I forget what it is called and how it was hooked up.
The rest of the holes in the plenum below the throttle body are plugged.
I don't have ventilated valve covers.

The above is what I did and should not be taken as a suggestion. It works O.K. for me

Karl
Old 04-14-2004, 01:01 PM
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Thanks Karl
Any pictures???
For Ideas of course
Old 04-14-2004, 01:08 PM
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Herb Meeder has a K&N air filter with stock D-jet. he is required to be all stock for his racing class. It looks trick, I hope he reads this and posts a pic.
if you must carb, I had much better experiences with Dellotros back in my Bug/ghia days. they stay tuned and were easier to get them tuned. Dellorto is a more modernized copy of teh IDF Webbers. Parts are harder to find. CB performance sold them to me.
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Old 04-15-2004, 03:32 PM
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Porsche Crest K&N Filter

Here's a shot of the K&N filter I put on my 1.7. As you can tell, the engine compartment is a lot more accessible now. It my not look it, but everything is essentially stock. All the FI is bone cold stock and I ditched the oil bath cleaner. By trimming a tab on the upper part of the u-tube I found a K&N cone type filter that hose-clamped right onto it. I also got rid of the little stand that the filter used to sit on. I tapped a hose bib on the tube for the fuel vapor recovery hose. As you can also see, the crankcase vent and heads are ported to a vent box (a Bugpack item used on lots of sandrail motors.) For some reason, just replacing those few items, really opened the motor compartment up and the addition of blue 8mm ignition wires really gives the car a high performance look, but under it all, it's just a stock 1.7 with stock FI. Just another bus motor.



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Last edited by HMeeder; 04-15-2004 at 06:37 PM..
Old 04-15-2004, 06:29 PM
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not trying to sell anything on the PP board but you did ask about another air cleaner system.

check out the 914 FI intake systems at:

http://www.9xauto.com/914.html

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Old 04-16-2004, 05:28 AM
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