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Scooter311's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 600
Question 050 install tricks?

Heya Pedal-to-the-metalophiles
A federal agent just delivered a 050 distributor to my house (thanks Chibone!) and I was wondering -
Are there any changes necessary other than yanking out the 009, swapping the pointless ignition sensor, and plugging it all back together?
I did just that, but couldn't get it timed at all. I pulled the points and condensor from the 050, and put in the sensor from the 009, made certain it all went back together *exactly* as the old one was removed, yet after a while of cranking it over and turning the dizzy each time, it would only backfire and sputter horribly. A buddy turned the key while I turned the dizz back and forth - I could sorta find the sweet spot, but it was never right. I recumbobulated the 009, put it back in, and it ran like the dickens.
I was in a hurry, so I couldn't diddle with it for too long, as I needed the car to drive. In the rain. All weekend. Probably for the next 4 months, but they DO say we'll get a break in December, when it turns to snow.
YAY Rochester!

Cheerio lads
Jeff


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Old 07-19-2004, 10:01 AM
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Jason Porter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Bristol, VA
Posts: 975
Once you get the 050 in place, turn it until it runs, rough as it will be. Then get your timing light, and adjust it to 29 BTDC at 3500 RPM's. That's perfect for your cam and carbs, and evrything should be fine.

The problems is that the 050 is more sensitive do it's advance range, and the 009 is so crappy that it always runs about the same, just more or less ping. Just put it back in and be precise, and you'll be fine.

PS - I was amazed at how sensitive it was compared to the 009. Both were new, but I don't think that made much difference.
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1989 Chevy Silverado 3500 - 454TBI, 4x4, 8 gallons/mile
Old 07-19-2004, 11:36 AM
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Heya Jason
Yeah, I've got the 'ping' to about as minimal as I think I can get, but it's still there. I'll give it another try later this week and see what happens. Other than messing with the dist, it's running schweetly.
I found out what the exhaust leak was too - woohoo - one of the gaskets between the HE and muffler is crapping the bed. No worries, phew- I tightened it up and it helped a little, but at least I'm not crazy. Well,.........
I also noticed something about this setup - it seems to respond the best, believe it or not, to blatantly mashing the throttle! Yeah, it runs fine if you're puttering around, but really wring it out and it gets up and rocks - x-way on ramps are a blast, I can finally feel acceleration (and HEAR it, thank you Monza). It seems to WANT to be run hard - instant smile machine!


It runs best at about 180 oil temp, 45-50lbs pressure, 300 degrees head temp, and 3000 to 4500 rpms. It sounds awesome, I know I keep saying it, but DAAAMN.

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Old 07-19-2004, 12:52 PM
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Jason Porter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Bristol, VA
Posts: 975
That cam isn't made for driving like a risk assessment specialist. It doesn't like sitting in traffic. 45 minutes on the freeway, and my car spends 3-5 minutes letting me know what an @ss I am for making her sit there.

I'm actually switching cam/lifters for Christmas. Jake says he can get me 15-20 more HP with a different cam. Combining that with four fiberglass fenders/decklids/doors, and roof and glass removal, and the bug should be just about horrifying.

Definitely switch that distributor this week, you won't be sorry...

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Jason Porter - 888-280-7799 ext 233 - jason@pelicanparts.com

1989 Chevy Silverado 3500 - 454TBI, 4x4, 8 gallons/mile
Old 07-19-2004, 02:09 PM
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