Looking to buy carb conversion kit

[yousaidpoo]

First things first, I really dont want to start the whole "carbs vs. fuel injection" debate in this forum.

That being said, where is the best place to get a conversion kit for a 1.8? I'm looking for dual weber 40's, and would like to get a kit with everything i need already in it, so i cant forget anything.

[mikey]

CBPERFORMANCE.COM They have the best linkage and related hardware.

Mike

[yousaidpoo]

alright, i'll check that site out. one thing though, i am actually probably going to go with 44's, since i plan to build this motor up to a 2056 or 2270 in the near future

[lapuwali]

Decide on 2056 v. 2270 now, before you buy the carbs. IMHO, 40s would work better on a 2056 for street use. 44s would only be required if you went up to 2270.

Expect to buy jets even with a "complete" conversion kit. I believe CB doesn't rejet the carbs for application, but just uses them as they come from Weber. Aircooled.net sets them up for you, but charges another $100. CB does appear to have the best linkage, however.

[kmhemi]

I have a compete set of 40's but they are for a 2.0
I just took off the wife's car today. I am going to a single carb for her. They ran great. Let me know if you want to make me an offer on them. complete with linkage everything !!
Email me at Keith_Mayhugh@Simonton.com

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

So you're going from the duals, which work well, to a single, which is almost impossible to set up properly on a Type IV/914 engine? Uhh....

Any idea how you're going to get heat into the manifolds so you don't have most of the fuel simply coating the walls? There's a reason the "Pinto Weber" setup is also often called the "crappy single-carb" setup.

--DD

[kmhemi]

the reasons I wanted to go to a single is mainly the way she drives. I would like to slow her down a bit. The other reason is I have trouble keeping a good idle. I suspect I have a vac. leak somewhere. the thing kinda wanders a little. What problems will I have with a single 2 bbl besides performance loss which in this rare case is desireable.

[lapuwali]

Performance loss, hard to get a good idle, and icing. If your wife drives too fast for you, fit a throttle stop so she can't get more then 3/4 throttle...

[vintagerace914]

how much do u want for the webers i am looking for some... how many miles do they have on them?

[Jason Porter]

Originally posted by lapuwali
Decide on 2056 v. 2270 now, before you buy the carbs. IMHO, 40s would work better on a 2056 for street use. 44s would only be required if you went up to 2270.

I use 44's on my 1911cc. It depends on a lot of things. Cam, valve sizes, head work, type of driving to be done, displacement. The most important part of your carb setup is jetting. You can make a 1.7 use 44's with great success on the top end, and driveable on the bottom end if you jet the 44's properly.

[Jason Porter]

Originally posted by kmhemi
I suspect I have a vac. leak somewhere. the thing kinda wanders a little. What problems will I have with a single 2 bbl besides performance loss which in this rare case is desireable.

Loosen up the cable a little, and tighten it back down. Lack of full throttle wil put a damper on her speed.

A vacuum leak can be fixed for a lot less than buying a new carb setup, and selling your old one at a loss. Coincidentally, you may want this 914 back from your wife eventually, and you're not gonna be a happy man with a single carb Trust me...

[mike mueller]

knowing how damn slow a near stock /4 is, trying to make the car go slower is about the dumbest thing I've heard......nothing like getting ran over by an 18-wheeler or have you ever thought that in order to avoid an accident one might need to accelerate to make that happen....

[kmhemi]

I have decided to stay with the dual carbs for now, The motor is NOT stock. I just rebuilt it with new flat top pistons and cylinders, Eagle solid racing cam. Hi vol oil pump, I also had the heads ported and polished and added the dual carbs. I already have the single carb kit which made me consider changing it. The car has a chalon body kit on it and has been lightened an ton. It is pretty quick. MAybe I can get some advice to tuning these dual carbs.

[Jason Porter]

I would say 125 mains should be about right, if you have IDF's. What do you have?

[mike mueller]

kmhemi,

sorry, no advice on tuning the carbs (I'm an FI guy )
but, I can recommend an LM-1: Digital Air/Fuel Ratio Meter

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/lm1.php

it's pricey, but considering how much money you have in your motor, it's cheap insurance.....you could also do what I am doing, get together with a few other car buddies in your area and split the cost of the unit, it's universal, so it'll work on just about any internal combustion engine.....just make sure everyone has thier own O2 sensor (about $40) since they can be damaged if abused or you have your settings grossly off.

[lapuwali]

What mains you run depends on the size of the venturi you have. About 4x the size of the venturi in mm. So for 28mm vents, 115 mains are closet. For 30mm, 120s are closest.

Best to start with 52 idles, and have 50 and 55 idles on hand. Getting the idle circuit right is much more important than getting the rest of it right, for a street car.

Good idle quality also starts with good ignition quality. If you're running an unmodified 009 distributor, forget about idle quality and good drivability, you'll never get it.

[balthazar]

I beg to differ lapuwali...

I am running dual 40's on a 1.7L stock. The engine uses an 009 dizzy with the pertronics unit installed. The carbs have 115 mains with 28mm venturis.

The idle is so low and quiet, you would think it has died. The car pulls hard from 2500 to 4500rpm where it kind of drops off. The only problem is that the pertronics unit kicks out after the car heats up

That being said, the carbs are really too big for the engine. When decellerating, the carbs REALLY load up. You gotta mash the gas to keep them from flooding. I think a dual 38IDF setup would solve this problem for street use.

My solution will be more cubes

[kmhemi]

I put mine back together today and it idles fine and runs strong all the way through the power range. It still died once in traffic after it got hot. ..Hit the key back up and no more problems...STOCK dist. with points...Is that the problem?? At this point I am starting to think my carbs are not the problem.

[lapuwali]

How long since you replaced the points and condensor? How are you providing vacuum to the stock distributor with the carbs? If you just leave it unplugged, your timing will drift all over the place.

On the 009, the chief problem is they have a terrible advance curve. It doesn't even work well on the Type I. Jake can go on and on, with dyno data to back him up. My own experience shows that once you retard the timing enough that you don't get ping in the midrange anymore, you have terrible gas mileage. I just installed a Mallory Unilite today, and from that alone the car ran much better than with the 009 (new points, old points, lots of attempts at adjusting to make it work), and I've still yet to really dial in the Mallory. Better idle and more consistent idle, and much smoother pull through the gears. I obviously don't have enough data yet on gas mileage, but I'm hoping it will be better than the 17-18mpg I've been getting (also on a 1.7 with 28mm venturies).

You can do a search here or on the STF board, and you'll find Jake has dyno data showing as much as a 10hp boost just from fitting the Mallory in place of the 009.

[kmhemi]

is the mallory also points or electronic?? What about pertronix Ignitor?? I will replace the dist. If it will lock the idle down. The thing seems to wonder sometimes...I think I have the carbs about where they need to be. I have fooled more with these 2bbl webers than I have the dual four barrels on my 426 Hemi. you would think it would be the bear