Jack Points

[bpgreer]

At the risk of sounding completely stupid... Where are the safest locations on the 914 to use a floor jack? I intend to put the car up on 4 jackstands, but wasn't sure where to begin. There doesnt seem to be a lot of places on the main frame to raise it. I definately don't want to tweak something. Thanks.

Brian

'73 silver 2.0

[Alfred1]

You can use these jack pads in the factory jack holes at the rear of the car.

[ruddyboys]

I like putting the cup of the floor jack around the bolt that holds the engine in.
There are four jack points that have metal donuts welded to them, I wouldn't use them, they tend to rust out.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

You can put a 2x4 along the underside of the car to spread out the load. If you do that (with a nice long board), you can put it along just about any seam or underneath any area that has a bulkhead attached to it.

In front, the front torsion bar mounts are good for lifting/jacking/supporting the car. In the back, I still use the "donuts". Some use the engine mount bar, but there are only two M8 bolts holding each side of the bar to the car's chassis... You might be able to use the suspension pivot in the rear; those make for a very good place to put a jack stand. If you have the type of stand with a curvy-brace-shaped pad on top, e.g., { .

--DD

[bpgreer]

Yes that is the kind of stands I have. There just seems to be a lack of solid areas in the rear. I will take a look for the spots you mentioned and use a 2x4. I just don't want to bend, crack, or otherwise injure the car. Thanks.

[Zeke]

914's are tough to raise up when they get old. (Kinda like old men ) Most say to never raise the car by the motor/trans. I say put a 2 x 6 long ways to the car and on top of the jack pad and position along the center line of the engine case catching some of the trans as well. This will distribute the load to 4 points, 2 motor mount bolts and 2 trans ears.

The trans ears are the more vulerable of the mounts. That's why many won't use the motor to raise the car.

However, if you raise one side from the middle using a board, then put stands under the car, when you go to the other side it gets a little iffy as you go up. You have to pull the jack towards you as you raise. POC, if you're on smooth concrete, but get hung up on a pebble or asphalt and you'll jack the car over off the other side stands. At best, it is difficult to get the car centered on the stands so they are not loaded sideways.

When you jack the car up from the front (a natural) and the back, you get some of the same effect, but not as severe. Always shake the car a bit to see if it is solidly on the stands before removing tires or crawling under.

I always felt awkward jacking the car from the side unless I was going to work only on the side. I never broke a trans ear and my years of 914 ownership are many.

[synthesis]

I had this gigantic I beam that was already cut to perfect size, 48". Put that under the motor mts, got the back of the car over 33" high. Was able to install motor with full carbs and linkage installed.

I have the front raised about 12" on jackstands to minimize the extreme angle. The stands I had fit perfectly around the front donuts.

dr

[Zeke]

As long as that beam doesn't roll over, you're good. Looks flat and wide enough on the edges, but I 'm sure you have to be there in person to understand completely if it's totally safe.

[synthesis]

Your right about the stabilty of the beam but there is a fairly flat area there below the motor mounts and I mad some wood blocks with reliefs for the bolt heads so it would sit down in it.

I was pretty careful but it was more than stable enough.

dr