Valve adjustment procedure for aggressive, overlapped cams...

[Brando]

Procedure i'll use next valve adjustment:

-Go to TDC for #1
-hook up leakdown tester for #1
-pressurize the cylinder
-set valves

repeat for all other cylinders

[Jason Porter]

Originally posted by Brando
Procedure i'll use next valve adjustment:

-Go to TDC for #1
-hook up leakdown tester for #1
-pressurize the cylinder
-set valves

repeat for all other cylinders

Why?

[Brando]

From what my mechanic told me... when you pressurize the cylinder it forces the valves closed, so you don't have to worry so much about your setting being off.

[Fly Mach .86]

Originally posted by Jake Raby
If you were running steel pushrods, thats was why they recommended to do it hot.

I set my steel pushrods at zero lash cold or .003 when warm..The pushrod material dictates expansion and contraction- steel PRS stay the same length when they warm up. Aluminum PRs grow with the engines temperature and ned more lash to keep from tightening up if the engine runs too hot.

Still a little confused here. I have a FAT Performance built 2.2 (sorry Jake they were closer.) It has steel push rods. So I can adjust to 0 lash and don't even need the damn feeler gauge?
Cheers, Elliot

[Jason Porter]

Originally posted by Brando
From what my mechanic told me... when you pressurize the cylinder it forces the valves closed, so you don't have to worry so much about your setting being off.

That may work if you're running a stock cam, but on a cam with overlap, one valve will almost certainly be open to some extent.