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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Victorville, CA
Posts: 20
Trailing arm bushings

I need to replace the stock rubber bushings in my rear trailing arm. I've heard that this is quite a project. I'm already taking the engine out to replace the transmission so I will do the bushings at the same time.

Does anyone who has undertaken this project have any good advice? Does the stock bushing run the entire lenth/width of the trailing arm bolt or is it just the width of the reduced diameter part of the trailing arm? What's the best or easiest way to remove the main mounting bolt?

Thanks for any help!

Steve
Old 05-28-2000, 04:47 PM
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op3 op3 is offline
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Hello..
I'd like to know also.. I'm planning on doing those too, I also plan on doing the fronts too.. anything inparticular to do there either..
and what about motor mounts? I need to do those and tranny too.. any sugesstions? I've heard to do soild for the rear, but this was from a racer, which mine will be eventually..
Thanks
Chris
Old 05-29-2000, 06:03 PM
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JTB JTB is offline
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I replaced mine last summer with the Weltmeister bushings. The bushings are about as long as the reduced section. To remove the bolt, I used an arbor press. You can press it either direction. Even as worn as my bushings were, they were a bear to remove. If you don't have access to a press big enough, you could probably rig something up using a couple of pipe clamps.

If you replace the stock bushings with Weltmeisters, be sure to get a good fit. I found that neither the bushing nor the tube were round. A little bit of sanding helped there. Also, at the suggestion of others, I ground a groove on the inside of the bushing about half way down. I then installed the bushings and drilled through the tube and the bushing and then threaded this to accept a grease fitting. This way I can lube the bushing to keep the squeaking down to a minimum. After a few hundred miles on the street and half a dozen days on the track, everything seems great, and no noise.

John
Old 05-29-2000, 06:24 PM
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Location: Lake Forest, CA USA
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Yes, it's a big greasy job. Agree with previous post about using a hydraulic press to remove those enormous pivot pins...I took my rear suspension arms to Pep Boys and had them do the work. They kind of balked at first, as I didn't remove the rotor, caliper, stub axles, hubs, etc., so it was a heavy, cumbersome assembly to handle.
I bought some Automotion replacement bushings--the 'road' versions that are stiffer than stock but softer (and quieter) than their competition bushings. You'll be real happy to know that the replacement bushings tap right in with a hammer. I used a good grade of moly grease on installation and I haven't heard a squawk in 3000 miles, but the grease-fitting precaution is probably a good one. Hardest part is re-torqueing the inboard pivot nuts, as there's not too much room between the attachment point and the heat exchanger. Use a narrow wrench!
You'll need the special 12-point socket for the CV joints, and new gaskets for them as well. When you have the rear suspension apart, it's a good time to repack the joints.
Of course, you'll have to take it to an alignment shop to set the rear toe. Good luck!
Old 05-29-2000, 09:00 PM
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Removal of 914 rear suspension bushings.

The trick....

I tried to burn them out. GAG
I tried to drill them out.
I tried to cut them out.
I tried to cuss them out. Many times.

The trick is to use the rear wheel bearings.
I used my worn 911 races but I guess the 914s will work also. Take the inner race from worn bearings.

Cut the top rubber top off one end. The bearing races are about the same inner and outer dimensions as the trailing arm.

Place the bearings on top and then place a metal bar with a hole in it over the rod.( I used a VW oil pump puller bracket).
The rod in the suspension should go through the hole. The hole should be smaller than the bolt that was on the rod.

Place the original bolt back on the rod and there is your press. Tighten the bolt and the rod will pull out.
Stack the bearings up as you go. 4 bearings high will pull the rod from the opposing bushing. Once it is free from the other side it pulled right out.

You may need some scap metal for the inbetween hights (you will know what I mean when you get there)

The last one I did took me just a few minutes.

Sorry, no time to for a full tech article with pictures. ;-)

-Rich Hilgersom
Old 05-30-2000, 08:32 AM
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By golly! I think you might just have saved the day. Thanks for the input.
Old 05-30-2000, 09:33 PM
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Thanks Rich!.

I used a variation of your bushing removal method to remove my rear bushings. Worked great took only about an 90 minites to do both sides.

I cut a peice of 2"x 1/8" wall tubing into various short lenths and used combinations of those lengths to pull the shafts out.
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Old 02-25-2003, 03:37 PM
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Cool

Your welcome!

Glad I can be of some use around here ;-)

-Rich
Old 02-25-2003, 04:33 PM
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The best $70 you can spend





Takes less than 5 minutes to press out the shaft with this cheap press......the bushings then just pull out with a pair of pliers.

Harbor Freight 6 ton press
Old 02-25-2003, 07:34 PM
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Old 02-25-2003, 07:34 PM
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