Tachometer Problemo

[firey914]

I have a problem with my tach. When I turn the engine over, the tach moves around near the needle stop - it is not butting right up next to it though. When the engine starts, the needle just continually bounces off the limiter. I checked the black and purple wire on the coil, it's firmly seated - however when I take it off, the car doesn't start - very peculiar.

my check oil light also doesn't go off. any suggestions?

[Tab914]

Have a look at fuse #8. Had the same problem and was told by Dave here at Pelican about fuse #8. Sure enough that was the problem. Hope that helps.

[firey914]

I checked fuse #8 (under the dash right?). It was fine, but I put a new one in anyway, no success. The car also DOES start when I take the black/purple wire off the coil. Any other thoughts?

[Tab914]

That wire is for the tach and would not prevent the car from starting. I also think that it has nothing to do with with the generator light. Is there anything else in your dash or lighting that doesn't work? I'm sure you checked that that wire is connected on the correct prong on the coil.

[firey914]

The indicator for the high-beams no longer lights up - it did when we got the car, but the car also didn't start then.

The bl/pu wire is indeed on the correct terminal on the ignition coil.

I'll keep checking for things, but any other help would be greatly appreciated.

[Tab914]

So the highbeams themselves come on? turnsignals? wipers? horn?

[firey914]

Highbeams come on, turn signals come on and the indicators work, wipers work on both settings 1 and 2, no washer though (probably unrelated) and the horn most certainly works - I always hit it on accident and it scares me.

[Tab914]

All i can think of is a fuse. If your fuse panel is unscrewed and just hanging by the wires make sure that none of them have become disconnected or loose. Check the ones behind the metioned fuses. Maybe a ground that is disconnected. As for the indicator light for the high beams, it could be the actual bulb that is burnt of not sitting properly in its socket. ( did you take the dash panel out at any time ? )Other than that I can't help you. Hopefully Dave from Pelican will chime in. I'm sure he will know.

[firey914]

I'll check the back of the fuse panel - i definitely shouldve done that earlier. We actually havent taken the dash panel out yet for fear of it being an absolute grizzly bear to get back in. We should though, because all 3 guages are slightly off axis about -5 degrees.

Thanks for all the help, it's really appreciated

[Tab914]

You bet! Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Are you working on the car you are looking to sell? Do you have any pics? Where are you located?

[WOODPIE]

firey,

This won't help much with the actual problem you have with the tach, but it is good to know anyway. All three gauges can be pulled out of, or simply twisted in, the panel that they set in. Friction is what holds 'em, mostly.

Ed

[firey914]

Yep, same car I am selling. It's a 1974 1.8L with stock L-jet. My friend and I team bought it about a month ago. We didn't really buy it to keep, more for a car to learn about cars and hopefully to make a little money (I'm only 17 and he's 18). The car didn't run, but it did turn over. We stripped the exterior stuff off the engine (all the hoses, electronics, air filter, etc) and gave it a good cleaning (the throttle body was black with grease, i had no idea it was silver, same with the AAR). Then we replaced all the hoses, including the fuel hose which wasn't the right size (previous owners didn't bother to get metric stuff). Then we took a look at the electronics - bad news, they were very, very corroded (the two harnesses in the engine compartment). We had to get a new harness that goes to the FI brain, and we stripped the other one of the outer casing, made sure there was conductivity, and covered them all back up with thick layers of tape to prevent shorting. Then we did general maitnence stuff, new air filter, new spark plugs, we're going to do an oil change, etc. A few cosmetic repairs we still have to do which include a rear taillight lense (which should be arriving today) and a thorough cleaning. I guess the previous owner overhauled the brakes (front and rear, new calipers, rotors, pads) and he painted the car. It used to be lime green, now it's red with porsche decals. Unfortunately, any area that is not an exterior part of the car is not the exterior body color, which is how it is on all original paint 914s I do believe. The boot, bonnet, engine bay, and wheel wells are all black, except for the spots of course which they couldn't get a sprayer to, those are still green. It's really unfortunate that they painted it, oh well. A few nice things are the factory A/C and the center console. I'm pretty sure these 2 options are pretty rare together?

[John Rogers]

Are you absolutely certin the wires behind the tach are connected right? If it were me I would pull the tach and hook a test tach to the black/purple wire to see if the engine runs and the RPMs look corect. There could also be corrosion in the two connectors at the relay board inside the cover for the pins causing the tach feed to short out. Good luck

[firey914]

I'll definitely try that - thanks. Any reccomended methods on getting the tach out? Should I just pry it out with a flat head?

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Yup--a very thin one, very carefully. It should slide pretty easily. Just pry it far enough that your fingers can pull it out.

Alternately, you may be able to reach up from under the dash and push it. I've removed my speedo that way, but not the tach--I can't reach it. Though I have pushed the speedo out, then reached in the speedo hole to push the tach out...

Not sure on your tach problem. Wire connections are always something to look at, though. The tach signal wire goes through the relay board, so there are two plugs to check there in the circuit.

If you have access to another 914, perhaps you can borrow a tach and see if it does the same thing?

--DD