clutch job

[kfrench]

how bad does everyone think it is NOT to change or resurface the flywheel when changing the clutch disk/pressure plate?

[paulhagedorn]

it really depends. you can have the flywheel checked by a machine shop to make sure it would be ok...the problem is, if the clutch has been abused slightly, the flywheel can get scorched, and warp. it costs maybe $50 to have it machined at a machine shop...so if you are going to do the job, i would do it all the way.

Paul

[Germain]

It cost me $25 to have my flywheel resurfaced. I had it done because I could see where oil had gotten onto it, and had seen where it had waved. I have 3 more that were either new or turned, and they all worked great. I've done 2 other jobs without turning the fly, and within 6 months I was getting some chatter from it... Worse case, you will be under the car again sooner then later to replace the clutch yet again. Best case, the clutch last like the energizer bunny and keeps going and going and going and... you get the idea.

[kfrench]

the reason i bring this up is that i will be in previous owners garage changing the clutch to get the car out of there. it seems like changing the flywheel as well adds a fair bit more work to the job.

[Dave Bell]

I have never changed the clutch on my 914, but on the 3 other cars I have done it on, the majority of the work is getting to the clutch and flywheel. Unbolting the flywheel is usually fast and easy.

Again because of all the work of getting to the clutch, it is just worth it to resurface the flywheel. I have never bothered to even ask the machine shop whether it was needed or not. I just had it done because I did not want to have to have to dig into it again. I also always bought new throw-out bearing, and anything else in the assembly whether it needed it or not... same reasoning... its a PITA to risk having to take everything apart again in 6 months just to save $25 - $50.

My 2 cents

- Dave

[Germain]

I guess I will add on to this. First, you have no idea what the current fly wheel looks like? It is possible that the flywheel needs to be replaced, unlikely but possible. I would suggest towing the car to your house and doing the work. I would not advise being in the PO garage.

In addition, if I remember correctly there are 5 10mm bolts that hold the pressure plate to the fly wheel. Removeing then and then there are 4(?) more bolts that hold the flywheel to the engine... Just unbolt them and ta'da you have a flywheel in your hand. Now go get it turned. Reinstall using part 914-CP-1000A from PP for $302. (Its the 20 piece with no fly wheel). Follow the instructions provided by PP at http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_clutch_replace/914_clutch_replace1.htm. If you do this, your clutch should last 100,000 miles easy.

[This message has been edited by Germain (edited 06-14-2000).]

[kfrench]

well, i went the whole nine yards. full 20 piece kit with 911 disk and new flywheel. i want to do the job in the POs garage so that i can drive the car home.

any suggestions on a flywheel lock?

karl

[Germain]

Im not sure what you mean by a flywheel lock. If your talking about loctite for the flywheel, thats just not needed. You torque the bolts down and forget about them. If I remember correctly (again) the bolts were 40ft/lb that hold the flywheel in and 10ft/lb for the pressure plate. A Haynes manual has those specs.

[Joe Bob]

A flywheel lock is used on Type I VW engines...it keeps the flywheel from moving while you try to loosen that big old gland nut....since the 914 motor does not have just one nut, except for the owner....8^)it actually has....what....four or five??? been a while.....,a lock may not be needed...they should come loose with a breaker bar.

If the plugs are still in it is even easier...on re-installation make sure you use loctite and torque to the correct specifications.

[This message has been edited by mikez (edited 06-15-2000).]

[ws91420]

I disagree with the person who says you don't need a flywheel lock. I was able to use a long screwdriver held in the ring gear teeth when I torqued the flywheel bolts,but that was out the car and finding out that none of the local parts stores had a flywheel lock in stock.

[djs]

Too late to reply?

The flywheel is bolted on with, I think, 60 or so lbs of torque. There are five bolts holding it to the crankshaft. You should definitely have some way of locking the flywheel in place, as the compression of the engine will not be sufficient for this.

If you have an air rachet, you can break the bolts loose, but you don't want to reinstall them with one. For that you need a proper torque wrench, again obviating the need to lock the flywheel.

As for whether or not to surface the flywheel, once you have the trans and clutch out, R&R'ing the flywheel is insignificant. It's best to do it why you are in there.

...Dan

[TFI]

can i have the old flywheel since you went with the whole 20 piece kit with new flywheel?

what are the torque specs on the flywheel? mine were too loose and i wobbled some ovals into it. BIG *UGH* on that one.

[JP Noonan]

80 ft/lbs.

Use a new crush washer.

Re-use the three endplay shims (there must be three. Two on the outside rub against the crank and flywheel respectivly, the center one acts a bearing, I think it is called a "Torigton" bearing, but I digress).

Talking about endplay, this is a good time to check it to see how the bottom end is holding up.

While the FW is off a new $5 rear main seal and check that all the gally plugs are tight.