Transaxle rebuild

[bowlsby]

How difficult is it for a *weekend wrench* to rebuild the 901 transaxle? Any special tools or knowledge needed?

I've been shifting my stock 74 914 into 2nd s-l-o-w-l-y for about 6 months now to avoid grinding gears, works ok so far...I am pretty sure my 2nd gear synchros need replacement. Too bad I just replaced my 1st gear synchros a year ago...if I'd known then, I would have replaced the 2nd gear synchros at that time.

I have other minor problems which add up...no reverse tail lights, a failing front trans main seal (oil leaks), leaking shifter shaft seal at the shift console, leaking speedo angle drive (it has a new seal already but still leaks)...maybe the other synchros need replacing...(I'm at 100K miles on the odo).

If I have to remove the transaxle again, I am contemplating replacing all the seals and synchros and any worn gear parts...but don't want to get in over my head...

Any advice?

[Steve M]

Ok, I just finished working on my transaxle. I didnt change the 2nd gear synchro nor did I do any rebuild. All I did was replace the 1st gear synchro. I've never even touched a manual trans before mine, but I wanted to see what it was made of. Translated from russian my grandpop says 'I had to find out where it grows it's legs'.
When I took it apart it didnt seem like anything special though.
I took the whole transmission out and took out the gear assembly thats on the other side of the intermediate plate. If I may I would like to offer some pointers if you decide to rebuild.
When you pull the gear shafts out of the intermediate plate be VERY careful, there are little balls that will fall out and roll away. These keep the oil pressure in the intermediate plate, I think. If you dont put them back in correctly the shafts wont move properly and as a result wont shift. Also regarding the intermediate plate, count how many of those paper thin gaskets there are between the housing and the plate. Check both sides. These adjust the pinion lash, the pinion being the ring and pinion at the differential. I dont know what pinion lash is but it seems to be very very important.
It seemed to me that if you pay careful attention and have a well lit comfortable area where you can work. It shouldnt be too big a deal.
As far as any special tools go, you would want to have a deep 31mm socket to remove the drive that turns the speedo, you can use an electric impact wrench to remove it. I dont think it damages anything but there may be others who have something else to say about that. Even better still to avoid any surprises is to have a complete MM socket set.
You also need a punch or something that will pop out a spin. The little shifter arm has to be removed in order to remove the gear assembly on the inside.

There is one thing I noticed that I dont think I would know what to do with. At the end of one of the shafts is a nut with a washer that is bent around it. I presume this locks the nut. It doesnt seem like it is difficult to remove but I hadnt considered how to lock the shaft in order to remove the nut.

If you have the Haynes manual there are exploded views of the trans.

It's seemed pretty much a matter of putting things back the way you found them



[This message has been edited by Steve M (edited 09-29-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Steve M (edited 09-29-2000).]

[roadtrp204]

I just did a first through third syncro rebuild on mine. The Haynes manual does a good job of going through the steps, with the exception of that nail trick to get the speedo drive off, (must have been an inside joke) a deep socket is a must for that.

Second and third gears are on the same shaft back to back. Mine was hard to get into first, second, and starting to in third. The grinding is not the gears themselves, but the "dog teeth" ring pressed onto the gear and part of the slider ring. I replaced the syncros for first through third and the dog teeth on second. These parts all showed signs of excessive wear. The special tool I used for the job were: deep socket for speedo drive bolt(pinion expansion bolt); syncro "dog" teeth remover/installer; and the plastic block to simulate the intermedate plate (use to align the two gear shaft so the shift forks can be adjusted). Parts and tools ran about $300.

[Jim Smolka]

Make sure you have a 30mm deep well socket. You will need it for the speedo worm gear.

Make sure to count the # of old gaskets

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Smoke Daddy