Engine won't start now

[dogberry]

Hi again,

I was trying to change the points on my 914 when I (being the stupid idiot I am) dropped the screw for the points into somewhere never to be seen again. It will never be found and I have given up. So I went to my basement as found an old screw that fit the old one's spot. It went in nicely and I now have new points installed. Next on my list was the capacitor/condenser. I got that screw off (without loosing it) but the wire that goes from the bottom of the condenser/capacitor goes to some far off place that I cannot get at without taking apart the entire engine. Or so it seems. So Instead I stripped the wire on the new condenser and on the wire going nowhere so that it connected the old wire to the new condenser. I know that should solder it but I got lazy. After all that when I was putting the distributor rotor on (aka: spinny thingy) I accidently turned the distributor. And I have no clue where it was at either. So, now my question is how to get it to run again as it will not run when everything is put back together. I know this is long and I am inexperienced but please help me out. Thanks a ton, Jon

[mejulihn]

First of all, I would be concerned where the original screw for the points ended up. It could have fallen to a harmless spot -- or not (i.e. inside the distributor). The fact that the distributor was moved before you replaced the rotor should be no problem. The rotor can only be installed one way due to a slot in the top of the distributor shaft. In my experience the condenser is almost impossible to replace without removing the whole distributor which is not that difficult. However, your splice in the electrical wire could be problematic later if it loosens up. Sounds like you may not have set the point gap properly. If this is off, the engine will crank but not start.

[JP Noonan]

From your other posts I gather you have a 72 1.7L with the D-Jectronic FI still on it, right?

I have a 2.0L FI on my 1.7L but I think this should still work. Un-hook the vac lines and FI trigger points connector from the dizzy. Use a "stubby" 13mm wrench to remove the nut that holds the dizzy to the block. If you instead remove the long 10mm adjustment nut you need to re-time the engine. With the dizzy out remove the two screws on the bottom that hold the FI trigger points in the body of the dizzy. The lost screw should be in there. What may have happened is the screw is blocking the points from closing, therefore the FI isn't injecting fuel.

You need a feeler gauge,dwell meter, a timing light, and a test light. The dwell can be set pretty close with the feeler gauge, and the timing can be set with the engine off using the test light or visually. I (once again) don't have any of my books with me but the Haynes manual has the "visual" method of initial timing and the Lash International/Clymer has the "test light" method. Also look at the Pelican Parts tech article on timing 914's. If you don't understand what I'm talking about the FI trigger points look at the PP exploded parts diagram.

Good luck. I think it is just a combo of bad luck and the car sitting for so long but it should all come together for you. I got a 72 1.7L running after it sat for 8-9 years but I removes and went through the entire FI and ignition system before replacing it. Most of the parts worked but corrosion and rotted wires had to be fixed.