Rim Identification Help Please?

[TimW]

Have I used up my allotment of questions yet? I hope not.

Can anyone identify this rim currently on my 1970 914 parts car?
http://www.coolfuelcells.com/914/70-914rim.jpg

I know it’s not original, but it would be a real travesty to put these on '73 Orange Boy if they came from, oh, say, a Gremlin.

Thank You,
Tim
'73 914 1.7L Orange Boy
'70 914 1.7L Blue Boy for parts

[JP Noonan]

...and just what is wrong with a Gremlin??? Even with a 401 I doubt a 914 can do a 11.5 quarter mile

Look on the back of the wheel for a company name, but I'd guess they are most likely aftermarket wheels for a Bettle. Which means they have the Bettle offset...Which means that the largest tire that will fit is probably a 195. Other than that if you like 'em keep 'em. If you don't then sell 'em.


BTW I looked at the rust .jpg. I don't think I'll sleep well tonight. There is a Brad Muyer reinforcemnt kit that welds over the damged area and then ties into the rear suspension. I wouldn't trust that car until I had that rust fixed. Have the door gaps gotten tight yet?

[This message has been edited by JP Noonan (edited 11-30-2000).]

[Joe Bob]

The name Winston American Racing Mag jumps into my mind....

[TimW]

See I’m learning...I pulled one off and on the back is stamped: Western Wheel and 15x5.5

Does that help anyone tell me if these are worthy of a 914?

A quick search on the web turns up zilch.

I guess my next questions will be, since these aren’t standard 914 wheels that everyone is familiar with, how can I figure out the max size tire I can use? How do I measure the offset and compare that to a known 914 rim?

As for the rust, well, I was well aware of the 914 rust issues, and solutions, long before I picked up the car. I’ve always wanted to get my hands dirty with some welding work, and what better project than a 914? As for the door gaps, well, they are going but they aren’t totally shot (I can still open them). Believe it or not, while it looks really-really bad, the areas adjacent to the rust are solid. I’ve contacted Brad about his kit, and others about the rust, and the consensus is I’d be disturbing way too many solid factory welds with a kit, so I’m going to start with some patchwork (and new jack points) and see where that gets me. I heed the concern, but as one fellow put it "I’ve seen 914's come back from worse".

Tim

[This message has been edited by TimW (edited 11-30-2000).]

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

> I guess my next questions will be, since these aren’t standard,
> how can I figure out the max size tire I can use? How do I measure
> the offset and compare that to a known 914 rim?

Put the wheel face-down on the ground. Lay a straight-edge across the rim. Measure down from that straight-edge to the part of the wheel that sits against the hub. That is your backspacing.

If you want to figure out the offset, then measure the overall width of the rim. It will be close to 6", since the 5.5" is the width on the inside where the tire bead goes. Anyway, use your backspacing measurement and subtract HALF of the rim width from it. That is your offset.

These figures are pretty closely-related, and either can usually be used when talking about wheel fitment. Backspacing is easier to measure, though, and does take into account the thickness of the rim's metal in addition to the nominal rim width.

--DD

[ghelbig]

Tim,

If it were me, I'd off them and get plain-old steel wheels.

Matter of fact, I did have a set of those wheels. They're beer cans now.

They aren't quality wheels to start with, and they require you to convert to lug nuts (instead of lug bolts).

Figure on $10/ea for steel wheels, and $4 for stock lug bolts. (Typical used prices)

$.02,
Gary

[QUOTE]Originally posted by TimW:
[B]See I’m learning...I pulled one off and on the back is stamped: Western Wheel and 15x5.5

Does that help anyone tell me if these are worthy of a 914?