Bushing removal from front suspension

[efeinsmith]

Now that I have both transverse control arms removed, any suggestions for the easiest way to remove the rubber bushings at either end? They are going to be replaced as part of the suspension rebuild (911SC struts outboard with nice big brakes). Thanks

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The easiest way I have heard of is to put the bushing into a vise, and twist the A-arm. The last person who wrote about it mentioned drilling some holes in the bushing, but I'm not really clear on exactly where they were or where they went.

Apart from that, people have cut them off using all manner of destructive implemets, or burned them off. Lots of toxic smoke if you do that--be aware.

--DD

[chris914]

You can drill small holes around the bushing in between the two parts. This will allow some give for the rubber to "flex" as you twist the A-arm. If you have access to a hydraulic press you may be able to block the bushing mount and push the A-arm from the bushing. Lots of effort will be required but it is well worth it. Hope this helps.

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Chris

[oredith]

ditto what chris said.. i just replaced mine recently (3,4 days ago?).. drill little holes all around, had the bushings off and the new ones in place in about half an hour..

index the torsion bars correctly when you put them back.. i might have to take mine off again.. didn't take into account that the 22mm ones are MUCH stiffer then the stock bars.. the front of the car is sitting much higher than it used to now..

i'll probably end up just leaving it to the alignment shop.. need to take it in once everything's done anyways..

good luck,

Jeff

[efeinsmith]

Got all 4 bushings out (finally), by doing the drilling of the rubber. Did end up nicking the arm with one of them...hope this won't cause any problems. I've got the new bushings in their holders (and realizing later that the front and rear are slightly differend...duh!), but I've got other work before reassembling the front end.

Ordith....the factory spec is that initial-ly, with the strut reinstalled, you force the arm all the way down, and then install the adjuster touching the upper stop in the housing. To set the normal riding height, measure the distance from the center of the wheel to the ground and also the distance from the center of the torsion rod to the ground. Adjust the lever till the difference between the two is 90mm.

[DDS]

I'm doing the SC thing too, except using the whole front end less the steering rack. I'd been told to torch out the bushings, not pleasant, so this thread is a real help.
One question though. Wayne Dempsey (Pelican) had suggested to me that though it is a matter of opinion, he felt that the stock bushings in good condition were superior to the aftermarket hard plastic ones. Mine are still plenty resilient and the A-arm is concentric WRT the mounting collars.
Any opinions on the upgrade from those who've been there?

Dave Syer
'73 1.7
Was a 6
now a 2.0
will be a 6

[oredith]

my car isn't running yet (turbo project).. but i put in the race compound poly bushing in mine.. it kinda goes along with the 22mm torsion bar and 19mm sway bar..

i'd say if you're looking for comfort, stick with the stock ones.. they're going to be more kind to your body.. the car i'm putting together, basically ALL human comfort is out the window.

wayne's been around these cars for a long time now.. i'd trust his suggestion, unless you're got good reason to do otherwise

Jeff

If the bushings are still round and move well, I'd be tempted to keep them -- but, after 25+ years they probably aren't in the best of shape (mine had "oozed" up to the top).

I just did mine this weekend (and turbo tie rods too!) All it took was a cheap ($5) large gear puller to take off the old ones (just turn and turn and turn and . . .

scott

[Rich Hilgersom]

My trick on the two front bushings:
1. Make some room in front of the car and remove the bumber if needed.
2. Rebolt in one side of the arm to the car from the front. Your arm should be sticking straight out in front of the car, not under it.
3. Wiggle the arm with just your hands. A cheater bar is not needed. The arm wil rotate and you will be able to pull it away from the bushing.

-Rich

[DDS]

Hmm. Mine act as if the rubber has adhered to both surfaces. In a vise, they move with the resiliency of the rubber, but don't freely rotate like they would with poly bushings. In fact, a honkin' big monkey wrench can't spin the collars, they just make a rubbery squeak and 'bounce' back. Is this a good thing? TIA



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-- Dave
Yellow '73 1.7
was a 6
now a 2.0
will be a 6